I landed on three angles to answer my question: the biological one, the industry one and the regulatory one.

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Biologically speaking

Since wool is an animal fibre, biology seemed like a good place to start with gaining a better understanding of it. But I must warn you ahead: This is one of these instances where you thought at school: “I will never need this again in life” and then ten years later you start to research different types of protein and words like cuticular scales just for fun and because they are tangentially related to your favourite hobby.

In biology, the individual strands of wool that sheep grow are a type of hair and belong to keratin fibres. Keratin is a protein type, but unlike the protein powder sold in bulk for making protein shakes, this is structural protein. A structural protein is responsible for providing the rigid structure of hair, nails, hooves, horns and feathers. In wool specifically this keratin is responsible for the elasticity, wavy structure and resilience.

Looking at a wool fiber under a microscope, it looks a bit like a pine cone. The surface is not smooth, but covered in overlapping scales (cuticular scales), like shingles on a roof. This structure is the reason why wool sweaters are breathable, water and stain resistant and felt if washed the wrong way. Because moisture can slip beneath the scales, the skin stays dry. However, a lot of heat and friction can cause these scales to interlock irreversibly with each other. This was a hard lesson for me as a knitting beginner when I unsuspectingly threw one of my first projects into the washing machine. What kind of saved my project was the fact that I had used very thick yarn, so the individual strands did not felt together completely, but the resulting piece was still looking and feeling kind of weird. And it definitely contributed to me not ever wearing the finished project.

The scales also explain why some wools are itchier than others. If untreated, the scales of wider fibres are larger and more rigid, resulting in itchiness as they rub against our skin. For this reason, many brands advertise that they use merino wool in their garments. In contrast, the wool from other sheep breeds is rarely advertised this much. Fibers of the famous Merino sheep have the smallest diameters, and thus their scales are finer and more flexible, causing less irritation on the skin. The softness of fibre is measured by the Micron scale. The lower the Micron count, the softer the fibre. If you want to get a good understanding of how soft the wool you buy is going to be, check out the Micron value. For example, Peruvian by Filcolana is made from Peruvian highland sheep, which is a cross-breed of Corriedale and Merino sheep. Corriedales have a slightly higher Micron value than Merino sheep, so the resulting fabric might not be as soft. (Footnote: The treatment of the wool and the way it is spun can also affect this, but this can give a good first indication).

With our bare eyes we would notice another defining characteristic of wool fibres: wool fibres are naturally wavy. This waviness is also called crimp. Crimp gives wool its elasticity, like springs, they can stretch and still retain their shape afterwards. The waves also trap air between them, making it great for isolating warmth. This still happens when wool is wet. Compared to cotton, which gets heavy and cold when wet, wool will still retain some of its insulating properties. The unfortunate side effect is that you smell like, well, a wet animal, but at least you are somewhat warm. There is a reason why for hundreds of years, fishermen wore wool sweaters to work.

How the textile industry sees wool

In biology wool equals hair. In the textile industry, however, wool and hair are not regarded as the same thing.

Many mammals have a collective coat of hairs which is referred to as fur. The fur of most mammals is a layered system: an outer layer of oily guard hairs that repel water and an inner layer that provides insulation. This inner layer is also called down hair and is characterised as being soft, thin, curly and flexible.

In the textile industry any fibre from this down hair is called wool. This means that indeed the fur at the belly of my cat and my wool coat are technically the same thing, just taking a different shape, which is satisfying to know. So, broadly speaking wool refers to the down hair of animals that can be spun into yarn, such as alpaca, angora rabbits, yaks, and cashmere goats. They differ slightly in some characteristics, such as thickness, curliness or lanolin concentration, but the biological properties are the same. But, while it might be all the same in one way, for us knitters the slight differences are important to remember. Depending on the wool type, the final fabric will behave differently and require different care.

For example, alpaca wool is much warmer than sheep wool, because the hair fibres are hollow, but it has a lot less elasticity than sheep wool. Cashmere is a much more delicate type of wool and is more prone to pilling.

When I started knitting, I just added mohair to my projects, because I liked the look of it and I felt professional to knit with two strands at the same time. Now I know that many knitters add mohair to reduce the pilling and to lend some softness to the wool yarn. Until today one of my favourite yarn combinations is Tvinni (100% merino lambswool) and Silk Mohair (75% mohair, 25% silk) by Isager Garn. Tvinni is quite a soft yarn on its own, but adding mohair to rougher yarns like Lettlopi by Istex will also create a softer fabric.

Hair on the other hand is defined as the fibres from the top layer: they are straight, have smooth cuticles and very limited elasticity. The fibres from camels or horses are referred to as hair, rather than wool, because they do not come from the down hair of the animal and it has to be collected rather than shorn.

Law trumps all?

The textile industry says wool is not the same as hair, which is shorter and smoother, whereas biology clearly states that wool is a type of hair. They, however, agree on one thing, which is that a lot of mammals have wool as part of their fur. The distinction is made on very reasonable grounds that wool has quite different characteristics than hair. But, since we considered the view of biology and the economy, we should have a look at the regulators as well. Perhaps they will even resolve this difference between biology and industry.

The European Union (EU) defines wool as fibre from sheep’s or lambs’ fleeces as well as the hairs of some other animals, such as cashmere, angora and yak. However, in international trade, this is seen differently. In the Harmonised System, which is used to classify traded products, wool is strictly defined as the natural fibre grown by sheep or lambs. Everything else is considered fine animal hair. It does raise the question of who benefits from all the varying definitions.

So, it looks like no one really agrees with each other on this subject. Biology defines wool as a type of hair, which is at odds with International Trade, who define wool as strictly coming from sheep. Biology and the textile industry are at odds, too, as discussed above. And what is thought of as wool in the textile industry and in the EU is referred to as fine hair in the tariff system. The EU definition manages to walk that somewhat wobbly tightrope between the biological and industry definitions. It manages to provide a definition, which is only a little bit wrong in the sense of biology, but at least acknowledges that a lot of different animals can produce wool. But after all, this is something the EU is known for very well: trying to make a compromise for everyone, which results in things being a little bit wrong for everyone.

Conclusion - What to make of this tangle

I set out to find a definition for wool, to gain a better understanding of the material I work with every day. I assumed such a definition would be quite straightforward and easy to find, but evidently a lot of people have different opinions about what wool is. Thankfully, this mess of varying definitions between the EU and the Customs does not bear on my knitting.

But this discourse did point me to one important fact in the end: not all wool (or fine animal hair) is the same. I cannot expect that replacing merino wool with alpaca wool or cashmere will have no effect on the final result of the sweater. At the same time this opens up a whole new world of possibilities for combining different types of wool together to achieve different fabrics. For a long time a cashmere sweater has been on my knitting wishlist, but I might reconsider. Perhaps it is wiser to use a cashmere merino blend after all.

Next time

The sheep as we know it has been with humans for thousands of years, but it did not always look the way it does today. This, and how it became the dominant source for fibre and fabrics is a story for next time.

Thank you for being here. If you enjoyed this article, leave a like or share it with another knitter. It truly means the world to me!

xx, Sophie

References

Literature

Augustyn, A. (2026). Keratin. In Britannica. Retrieved March 1, 2026, from https://www.britannica.com/science/keratin

European Union. (2011). REGULATION (EU) No 1007/2011 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL. Official Journal of the European Union. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/HTML/?uri=CELEX:32011R1007&from=EN

Matthias, M. (2026). Hair. In Britannica. Retrieved March 1, 2026, from https://www.britannica.com/science/hair-anatomy

HS Code 51 - Tariff Classification of - Wool, fine or coarse animal hair; horsehair yarn and woven fabric. (n.d.). https://www.flexport.com/data/hs-code/51-wool-fine-or-coarse-animal-hair-horsehair-yarn-and-woven-fabric/#:~:text=HS%20Code%2051%20%2D%20Tariff%20Classification,horsehair%20yarn%20and%20woven%20fabric

Huben, R. (n.d.). Fiber content and choosing the right yarn for your project – the Knitting Guild Association. https://tkga.org/fiber-content-and-choosing-the-right-yarn-for-your-project/#:~:text=Animal%20fibers,to%20increase%20durability%20and%20washability.

Woolmark. (n.d.). About Wool. https://www.woolmark.com/fibre/

Pictures

Figure 1: Wool fiber scales.jpg

Figure 2: A Naturally Wavy Sample of Wool.jpg

A sheep in the long grass.jpg

Sheep in morning mist.jpg

Figure 6: Label with care symbols.JPG

Angora goat arp.jpg

Figure 4: Cañón de Chelly 1989 21.jpg

Figure 5: WoolBalesSouthMolton.jpg

Figure 3: Wool.www.usda.gov.jpg

I’ve written before about the things I wish I’d known as a beginner and one of the things on that list is to buy a pattern instead of trying a free pattern. Since this guide is for free, I am contradicting myself a bit here. But, I hope by writing the guide I would have wanted back then, you will get a free resource that is easy to follow and teaches you a little bit about knitting along the way.

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About This Guide

This knitting guide is specifically made to walk you through the creation of a balaclava, regardless of the yarn weight or needle size you choose to use. Think of it as a comprehensive workbook or how-to guide, aimed at teaching you the step-by-step process of constructing a basic balaclava.

I have added links to video resources throughout, but I may not have covered everything you need. In that case I can recommend YouTube as an amazing resource for learning.

The guide is divided into three parts:

1. Selecting Yarn and Preparing for Knitting: This section covers everything you need to know about choosing the right yarn for your project and preparing for the knitting process.

2. Knitting the Balaclava: The second part of the guide provides detailed instructions for knitting the balaclava, guiding you through each stage of the process.

3. Finishing and blocking: Why blocking is important and how to do it.

Part 1: Selecting Yarn and Preparing to Knit

Choosing Your Yarn

Any yarn weight is possible, however, I would recommend yarn from super fine yarn to bulky weight yarn. If you are unsure you can also go to your local yarn store and ask for recommendations.

If I were picking for the first time today, I’d go for a light DK or worsted weight merino. It knits up quickly, it’s soft against your face, and it blocks beautifully. I’d avoid superwash merino unless you’re holding it together with a strand of mohair. Superwash on its own can stretch quite a lot after washing, resulting in a balaclava that is two sizes larger.

Two yarns held together is also a great option, and one I’d genuinely recommend if you want a softer, fuzzier result. A lot of my balaclavas are knitted with a strand of merino and a strand of Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk. If you go this route, go up one to one and a half needle sizes.

Two strands of the same yarn held together also works. The result is denser and warmer.

Knitting a Gauge Swatch

Once you have selected and purchased your yarn, knit a gauge swatch. This is a bit tedious, and it very tempting to skip this step. But it is important for calculating the number of stitches you need to cast on and making sure that the final result will fit over your head and around your face. For a quick introduction to gauge swatches, have a look at the resources section at the end.

To knit a gauge swatch, cast on 6 to 8 more stitches than what is listed on the yarn label in the recommended needle size. If you are holding two yarns together, go up 1 or 1.5 needles sizes. Then you knit a square in stockinette until it measures 10 – 12 cm [4 – 5 inches]. Wash and block the square. Once it is dry, count the number of stitches and rows you have in a 10 x 10 cm [ 4 x 4 inch] square.

Once it’s dry, count the stitches and rows in a 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inch) square. Write that number here:

Stitches per 10 cm: _______ Rows per 10 cm: _______

If you want to learn more about gauge, have a look at these two videos:

• Knitting Gauge for Beginners

• How to Knit a Gauge swatch

Calculating Your Stitch Count

The formula for calculating how many stitches to cast on:

number of stitches for S,M= (your stitches per 10 cm / 4 inches)÷10 × 12 =

number of stitches for L,XL= (your stitches per 10 cm / 4 inches) ÷ 10 × 14 =

Round up your results to the nearest whole number, and use that number everywhere you see *_____* in the pattern.

Part 2: Knitting the Balaclava

The balaclava is knitted from the top down. This means that you will first knit a rectangle that covers the top of your head. Then you pick up stitches on the sides of the rectangle and knit the main part of the balaclava which covers the sides and back of your head. Once you have reached the jaw, you cast on stitches with the backwards loop cast on method and knit the neck in the round. Lastly you will pick up stitches around the face opening and knit the ribbing. For the ribbing you have two options: a simple ribbing around the face or one with ties incorporated.

The Top

Cast on *_____* stitches on 60 cm (24 inch) circular needles. The first row is a WS (wrong side) row, so purl across. The second row is a RS (right side) row, so knit across. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the piece measures 9 (10) cm from the cast-on edge. End with a WS row, put the stitches on hold, and break the yarn. I recommend putting them on hold on, by moving the stitches to another needle rather than scrap yarn, because you’ll be knitting those stitches again soon.

Videos resources:

• Long-tail cast on

• Putting stitches on hold

The Main Body

With the RS facing up, pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows along the right side, starting from the cast-on edge. Work across the held stitches in stockinette, then pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows along the left side. Turn your work around and purl the next row. Then knit the next row in stockinette, repeating these two rows until the work measures 20 (21) cm (7.9 / 8.3 inches) from where the stitches were picked up. End with a RS row.

Video resources:

• How to pick up and knit stitches

Neck Ribbing

Cast on *_____* stitches with the backward loop method at the end of the RS row. You might have to switch to 40 cm [16 inch] circular needles. It is important that you have an even number of stitches on your needles now. If you don’t have an even number, cast on one extra stitch. Join in the round and place a marker at the BOG. Knit 5 cm [2 inches] stockinette in the round.

Go down half a needle size and work K1, P1 for 2 cm [0.8 inches] or until the ribbing reaches the desired length. Bind of loosely using the Italian bind off (also called tubular bind off) method or any other cast off method. Make sure your head can still fit through the opening.

Video resources:

• Backward Loop Cast On

• How to join in the round

• Italian or tubular bind-off

Face Ribbing

Now you are going to pick up and knit stitches around the face opening. Go down half a needle size and start from the right corner of the chin. You might have to use the 40 cm [16 inch] circular needle. Pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows on the right side of your face until you reach the CO edge at the forehead. Pick up and knit *_____* stitches on the CO edge at the forehead. Pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows on the left side of your face until you reach the left side of the chin. Place a stitch marker (M1, see vidual on page 6). Pick up and knit *_____* stitches at the chin.

Count the stitches you picked up. It is important that you have an even number of stitches on your needles. Pick up and knit an extra stitch if that is not the case.

Version 1: Without Ties

Join in the round and place a marker at the BOG. K1, P1 in the round until your ribbing is 2.5 - 3 cm [1 - 1.2 inches]. Then bind off all stitches using a bind-off you prefer.

Version 2: With Ties

Join in the round and place a marker at the BOG. K1, P1 in the round until you have 1 cm [0.4 inches] of ribbing.

Once your ribbing is 1 cm [0.4 inches] wide, you make the holes for the ties. To make the holes, start be placing the markers (see visualisation below). Place a marker on the other side of the chin: *_____* stitches to the right of your BOG marker (this is M1). Determine the halfway point between the marker and the BOG. Place a marker at the halfway point (M2). Measure 2.5 cm [1 inch] to the right of M2 and place a stitch marker (M3). It is important that the last stitch before M3 is a knit stitch. Measure 2.5 cm [1 inch] to the left of M2 and place a stitch marker (M4). The first stitch after M4 is a knit stitch.

Knit in K1, P1 around the face opening until you reach the first stitch marker (M1). Continue knitting in K1, P1 pattern until there are two stitches left before M3. YO, K2TOG, K1, P1 until M4, YO, K2TOG, then finish the rest of the row. Continue to knit the rest of the ribbing (K1, P1) in the round until it measures 5 – 6 cm [2 – 2.4 inches] from the edge where you picked up stitches. Bind of using the Italian bind of method and sew the bind off edge to the WS of the balaclava where the stitches were picked up.

Video resources:

• Yarn over

• Knitting 2 stitches together

The Tie

Knit an i-cord. Cast on 5 or 4 stitches for super fine or fine yarn, 3 stitches for light or medium weight, or 2 stitches for bulky. Knit until it measures 85 (95) cm (33.5 / 37.5 inches). Use a safety pin to thread it through the ribbing around the face opening, and tie a knot at each end.

Video resources:

• Making an i-cord

Part 3: Finishing and Blocking

Sew in all your ends. Don’t skip this. For me this is always the part I have to push through, but loose ends can create little holes in the fabric and unravel.

The last step is to block it.

I could go on forever about the magic of blocking, but trust me that you will not want to skip this step. If your balaclava looks a bit wonky, tight and with uneven stitches blocking will solve this. By giving your project a nice batch in lukewarm water these issues will be resolved.

How to Block

Fill a bowl with lukewarm water and (optional) a small amount of wool wash. Submerge the balaclava and let it soak for at least 15 to 20 minutes. Just let it absorb the water. Wool felts when it’s rubbed while wet, and that is irreversible

Lift it out and gently squeeze out the excess water. Please don’t wring it. Lay it flat on a clean towel, roll the towel up with the balaclava inside, and press down to absorb more water. Then unroll and place the balaclava on top of a blocking mat or a dry towel.

Now you can shape it with your hands. Pull the top panel flat, smooth out the body, and stretch the face opening to the right size. Let it dry completely before trying it on.

Video resources:

• How to Block Knits

Congrats on your finished balaclava!

Have you tried out this guide? Are the some parts that were unclear?

Thank you for being here. If you enjoyed this article, leave a like or share it with another knitter. It truly means the world to me!

xx, Sophie

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Liz: I first learned to knit as a child, thanks to my next-door neighbor, an avid crafter. She taught me how to knit and crochet, and while I enjoyed the process, the hobby didn’t quite stick. I set aside the needles for about two decades, only picking them up again last year. When I returned to knitting, I had forgotten everything I’d learned as a kid and had to start from scratch. This time, I fell in love with the art and haven’t stopped knitting since.

At the same time, I also loved watercolor painting and even ran a small business, where I created custom watercolors of people’s favorite places. Looking back now, it feels like I was unknowingly laying the groundwork for Postcard Knits, where I design knitwear inspired by my favorite places.

Sophie: I love learning about San Francisco through your patterns. When you started knitting again, what drew you back to this hobby?

I got back into knitting while searching for a hobby I could enjoy at home. During the pandemic, I was spending as much of my free time as possible outside on hikes, but the winter rain and cold had me wanting to stay cozy indoors. I’ve always loved making things (hence the watercolors!) and knitting lets me create with my hands. Plus, it’s been a fun way to connect with my crafty friends over yarn, sweaters, and our knitting projects!

The first video I saw of you was the one where you showed all the versions you knitted of the Cloud Sweater - I think it was five times. I was so intrigued, because I haven’t yet found a pattern that I wanted to knit twice or even five times. What made you come back to this sweater again and again?

I’ve definitely made a lot of cloud sweaters! Initially, the simplicity of the pattern drew me in. As a beginner knitter, I enjoyed the blank canvas, and I loved that it allowed the yarn to shine. It gave me the freedom to experiment with colors, fibers, and drape, helping me learn more about my personal style as a knitter.

Did your view on the pattern and experience change each time you re-knitted the Cloud Sweater pattern? I’m curious to know if you discovered new things by the fourth or fifth time.

As I knit the same pattern multiple times, I gained a deeper understanding of how sweaters are constructed. It all began to click as I re-read the pattern. I gained more confidence in my understanding of garment construction and began modifying the pattern to create exactly what I wanted to wear.

That makes a lot of sense! The more I knit, the more I understand about construction, too. You recently published your first patterns. What was the moment that inspired you to start designing knitting patterns?

I moved to San Francisco this year, and I was so taken by all of the beauty in the city. There was so much inspiration and I kept thinking about how I could translate it into stitches. So I did! It’s been such a fun way to explore my new community, and connect with my new home.

Your patterns are so rooted to real places around you. How do you go from an ordinary object or place to a knitting design?

I’m a very sentimental person, and I’m constantly thinking of how to document my favorite places so I can look back on them fondly in the future. I don’t want to forget the small, everyday details—the things that make my life what it is and the qualities of these places that I hold dear.

For example, my Bike Path Sweater design was inspired by the two parallel winding bike paths in Panhandle Park. The cables on either side of the body mimic the paths, where I’ve spent countless hours running. Now, whenever I wear that sweater, I’ll always have a tangible memory of this lovely spot. A hand-knit postcard!

Agree, knitting projects hold a surprising amount of memories. Can you tell me more about your next pattern the Fisherman’s Wharf Sweater. How did the idea and construction for this sweater come together?

One of my favorite things about San Francisco is how every neighborhood has its own vibe. You can walk just a few blocks and feel like you’re in a whole new world! I want to start a series of neighborhood-inspired sweaters, and the iconic Fisherman’s Wharf was the perfect first choice. I wanted to create a nautical-themed sweater to represent the wharf, drawing inspiration from Guernsey sweaters. This type of sweater originates from the isle of Guernsey, and combines function with beautiful stitch motifs. The Fisherman’s Wharf Sweater is my interpretation of a Whitby-style half-and-half Guernsey sweater, using Half Fisherman’s Rib (a knitting pun to pay homage to the Fisherman’s Wharf name) and rope-like cables to reflect the sea and its fishing roots.

Your thoughtfulness and attention to detail is amazing and I look forward to seeing the final result! Are there designers, patterns and yarn you keep coming back to and which you would recommend to other knitters and beginners?

This is such a hard question! :) There are so many wonderful designers, projects, and yarns for knitters of all levels. In general, I always recommend starting with whatever inspires you. Maybe begin with a simple, small scarf to practice the basics. Once you’re comfortable with those fundamental skills, I really think you can dive into any project that you’re excited about. Local yarn stores are a phenomenal resource, and they have a wealth of knowledge.

Was there something you learned or discovered this year that changed the way you knit?

I’ve started getting into colorwork this year, and it’s completely changed how I think about knitting. Incorporating color feels like opening a whole new dimension of creating interesting fabrics and motifs. It’s such a fun way to bring bold designs to life, and as a designer I love how it lets knitters customize a piece to reflect their own interests. For example, my upcoming Cabin Window Sweater shows a lake through a cabin window—but with different colors, that same scene can become a meadow of flowers, a snowy field, or even a vast desert. Colorwork has really shifted how I look at my yarn stash and what I can create with it!

Colourwork is on my list for next year. Looking forward to 2026 are there certain techniques, yarns, colours or sweater styles that you are drawn to?

There are a few things I’m really excited to dive into next year. Steeking has been at the top of my list for a while; so many stunning vintage patterns rely on it, and having that skill in my toolbelt would massively expand what I’m able to create. I’d also love to do more lace work. I had a great time knitting the Heartland Bandana by Trellis Creations this summer, and I’m looking forward to exploring knitting lace in more ways.

That sounds like a great plan, I’m curious to see what patterns you are going to come up with!

You can find all of Liz’s amazing patterns on Ravelry.

If you were to knit something based on a place you have visited - which place would it be and what kind of piece?

Thank you for being here and reading my article. If you enjoyed it, please leave a like, comment or share with a fellow knitter
xx, Sophie

Why write a list of favourite things?

This list of favourite things is not meant to sell anything. For me it is a small snapshot of who I am at this moment and what my preferences are. Tastes and habits can change without noticing, or get lost in the business of daily life, and making a list every now and then can help to capture that.

It is a gentle check-in to appreciate what I already have. With the constant pull of new releases and recommendations it is easy to focus on what’s lacking in my life. Listing things that make my life better, helps me to shift my attention to what is already there.

As a reference for the future. On more difficult days it helps to have a list of things that bring me joy. It will not always be the solution, but a reminder that I can create small pockets of happiness for myself.

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1. Taking a walk in the morning before work

I work a lot from home and some days I barely make it out of the house. But in December I started to incorporate a morning walk in between breakfast and starting work. At first it was just a quick 15 minute walk around the block, but now I enjoy it so much I like to stretch it to over half an hour. The cool fresh air and the movement help me wake up and get energised. I notice now that on days when I go to the office or don’t go on a walk, I get restless and don’t focus well.

2. A little tea ceremony

A few years ago I got very much into loose leaf tea. I love to collect and try different sorts of tea in the cafés I visit. Somewhere on this journey, I found out about the Japanese Teapot - Kyusu - which are used to brew green tea. Often Kyusus are small - they only hold a small amount of liquid - and are made for multiple brews. A favourite tea discovery of mine is a green tea from South Korea called Seogwang. It tastes similar to a Japanese Sencha, but with a little bit more of a flowery note.

4. Redesigned Project No. 14

These leather project bags are made in Denmark and the brand has countless options for every need of needle, yarn or project storage. I was always looking for my interchangeable needle tips, cables or stitch markers, as they were all stored in different bags or boxes. In this folder I am able to store everything I need on a daily basis for my knitting projects. It must have already saved me hours of searching for things. The quality of their items is great, and although a bit of an investment, I believe it will last me a long time.

4. A new organisation system for my projects

This one has been quite a recent addition, so I cannot say too much about it. But since I set up this new system, my mind has felt so at ease. It mostly consists of a ring book binder, in which I have set up different sections for my projects. It gives me so much more flexibility than a typical notebook, as I can add and remove pages as ideas and projects progress. Additionally, I use a small notebook for capturing ideas on the go, and once a week I sort out and structure my ideas in the binder.

5. Making outfit collages for my knitting projects

This is something I do on and off. Mostly when I start with a new knitting project and I cannot decide which pattern to knit. Recently, I made collages for my current project, when I felt demotivated after having to start from the beginning for the third time. Seeing a full outfit it increases the anticipation and excitement for the finished projects and also helps to push through the annoying bits. I used to use Pinterest app Shuffles, but recently I discovered Indyx, which makes it easier to use the clothes that are in my wardrobe to make outfits.

6. A book club with a friend

Over a year and a half ago one of my friends an I started a book club, which consist just out of the two of us. We usually take turns picking a book and then discuss it together after a few weeks. Since we don’t live in the same city, this has been an amazing way to stay connected. We treat book club days the way we would treat any other physical meeting with a friend, sometimes we each go to a different cafe in our city and then call from there. We also get to know each other even better, since the books we pick raise discussion topics and topics for conversation that we would not necessarily come across in typical daily life.

7. Wool socks and slippers

Having cold feet has a similar effect on me as getting hangry. All of a sudden I feel uncomfortable, a bit put out and get annoyed at small things. The reason is either that I am indeed hungry or that I just have cold feet. I already used to wear wool socks, but the addition of comfortable slippers have made a great difference, and my transformation to a grandma is quite complete now.

What have been your favourite things recently?

So, how do you review a year of knitting? I find this a surprisingly difficult question to answer, because I want to find something valuable in this practice. Listing everything that I knitted would be the easiest thing to do, but I don’t think I would learn something and gain a new insight. A list captures output and efficiency, but this is a measurement for machines, not for humans.

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To review my knitting year I settled on checking in with my perception of how I think this year went and comparing it to the reality. Because sometimes the stories we tell ourselves are a bit different to what actually happened. In challenging my assumptions I want to leave a note for my future self about how my knitting journey actually looked like, not how I remember it.

For example, until recently, I believed I had knitted much less this year compared to last year.

Wrong.

In 2025 I knitted three cardigans, two t-shirts, two beanies, a small scarf, and a pair of socks. The year before that I knitted a top, three pullovers, and two vests. The big difference lies not in the quantity but in the diversity and purpose of the items I knitted. I get much more wear out of a few items knitted in 2024 compared to last year, because they are solid basics. For example, my most worn items were the Cumulus Blouse and the October Sweater from Petiteknit (both knitted in 2024), which I can wear with almost everything and everywhere. Last year I knit more seasonal and special items, such as the Manon Cardigan, the Cumulus Tee and the beanies, which I can only wear in the summer or winter respectively. The only piece knitted this year and that I wear very regularly is the yellow Cardigan.

2025 was the year of the cardigan.

This assumption is quite true. Initially, I wasn’t a fan of cardigans, often finding them awkward to wear. But I fell in love with them once I could influence their fit and style. After a failed attempt at knitting a cardigan at the beginning of the year, I knitted the Manon Cardigan, and then I drafted and knitted my own raglan cardigan. Currently, I have a second version of it on my needles and plenty more cardigan projects planned for this year.

Accumulating too much yarn and always changing plans.

It’s true. Over the past year, my yarn stash has grown significantly, usually with a project in mind but sometimes for one reason or the other I did not work out. So now I have a few sweater quantities of yarn with no project attached to them. But, perhaps this is not a bad thing and actually reflects my evolving knitting journey and increased confidence. Previously, I would purchase yarn only for specific projects, often keeping close to the recommended yarn in the patterns. As I learn more about drafting my own designs and experimenting with yarn substitutions, I naturally want to try out different types of yarn. I also enjoy having different types of yarn at hand to try out new combinations and stitch patterns. So having a bigger stash has helped me a lot to learn about types of fabric that are created by different yarns.

I always made things more difficult for myself

This is partially true. Experimenting and trying out something new, like drafting a cardigan without a clear guide, are at times frustrating and not straightforward. The first project of 2025 will remain an unfinished object until I can re-purpose the yarn for something else. Another project I unraveled twice, and even on the third try there were some mistakes. Accepting that learning sometimes means failing is a lesson I still haven’t fully accepted, but it’s getting easier. Sometimes quitting is the right choice. Other times it’s better to loosen your grip on perfectionism and be pragmatic instead. However, there where also quite a few projects that went by without any hiccups. The Sophie Scarf, the two beanies, my Cumulus Tee and Kirby Top, went smoothly, apart from the usual knitting challenges like getting the right gauge.

As 2025 drew to a close, I criticised myself for not knitting enough, for complicating things, for buying too much yarn.

But, as I looked closer, it was quite different.

Have you reflected on 2025 and if so what was your approach?

xx, Sophie

I had planned to keep a knitting diary whilst I was there but, as so often a plan looks quite different in reality. For one thing I had not accounted for the jetlag going west to east, getting travel sick on the plane, and the shock of arriving alone in a country I had never been to.

Once the initial shock wore off and I got some decent sleep I found myself in a country that values intentionality, mindfulness and craftsmanship.

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Choosing projects for the trip

Before I left, I spent a lot of time deciding, which projects to bring. The yarn I had at home was either to bulky or I did not have a project for, so I hoped to buy Japanese yarn for the Beanie No. 3 by My Favourite Things Knitwear and the Basic Socks by Paula Strickt. I wanted something small and familiar, so a pattern that I had knitted before, or one that would not take up a lot of space in my suitcase.

Tokyo & Kyoto: Yarn, crafts and other impressions

Yarn Stores

Whilst I was in Tokyo, I visited three yarn stores: Puppy Yarn, WALNUT and Knittingbird, each of them unique in their own way:

Puppy Yarn is store in Shimokitazawa, a neighbourhood, which is known for its many vintage shops. The store stocks a lot of European brands, such as Katia and Lana Grossa, but it also has its own line of yarns. Many of their yarns are very colourful, and have unique fibre textures and colour changes. It surprised me to see this really colourful and playful yarn, in a country where the dress code revolves more around muted tones and clean silhouettes.

WALNUT is in Ometesando, a similar neighbourhood full of international and local boutiques. It also carries a lot of western brands, for example, Isager and De Rerum Natura and they have a range of beautifully hand-dyed yarns. The collection ranges from lace and fingering weights to DK and sports weight, with many different fiber compositions.

Knittingbird is close by in Aoyama and also carries a lot of unique fibers and yarns. The concept is similar to the Wollfabriek where yarns are stored on big cones and spun up as required. But if that is too much choice, they also have ready made cones coming in yarn kits from which different projects, for example socks, cardigans or bags can be knitted.

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Traditional Crafts Week

Japan has 243 nationally designated traditional crafts. Whilst I was there Tokyo celebrated the Japanese Tradition Crafts Week, which highlights arts and crafts that have been passed down through generations. Yet, it also shows where crafts are adapting to modern tastes. In collaboration with lifestyle stores, workshops are held around painting ceramics, binding notebooks and metal engraving.

I brought home two beautiful ceramic cups from pejite Aoyama, a shop tucked away in a small side alley.

The Mingei Movement

In quite a similar vein, I found myself visiting an exhibition celebrating 100 years of the Mingei movement in Kyoto. Mingei (民芸) translates to “folk art” and was born in the 1920 as a counter-movement to industrialisation and mass production. Mingei focuses on celebrating the beauty of everyday objects made by ordinary craftspeople around Japan. For example, ceramics, textiles and furniture. It was heartening to see how this movement appreciated and highlighted the skills that went into making these beautiful objects as well as fighting for the preservation of the skills that go alongside them.

Not knitting for three weeks

At home picking up my knitting projects whenever I have a few spare minutes is second nature to me. But during this trip I realised soon that I didn’t have the time or headspace to start anything new. Taking a break from my knitting projects gave me an unexpected shift in perspective. I always have a mental list of projects I want to knit next, sometimes I forget to look back and appreciate the things I have already knitted. I brought three hand-knitted pieces with me: the Sophie Scarf, a raglan cardigan and the Cumulus Tee. I got so much wear out of all three pieces: My raglan cardigan kept me warm on the chillier days, the Cumulus Tee was perfect on the sunnier days and the Sophie scarf got me through a cold in Kyoto. With no new project to focus on I found a new sense of affection for the pieces I already have.

Coming back home

On the last day of my trip I went to the yarn stores mentioned above and bought a beautiful hand-dyed skein of yarn for the beanie, and two cones of sock yarn. The sock yarn came with a free English pattern, and now my mother and I each have a small project, which we can knit together.

But most importantly, this trip gave me a new appreciation for my own knitting. Seeing how much esteem Japan has for traditional crafts and skills and how they are celebrates, gave me a new sense of pride for my knitting projects, too.

Thank you for being here. If you enjoyed this article, leave a like or share it with another knitter. It truly means the world to me!

xx, Sophie

That‘s how the idea for this series was born. In Conversations with Knitters I want to sit down and chat with my fellow knitters about their projects, yarn obsessions and ways of knitting.

For this very first conversation, I had the pleasure of chatting with @boxy.knit (on TikTok and Instagram). Growing up in Norway, she learned knitting in school, but was a crocheter for a long time before turning to knitting again. What caught my eye was her beautiful recreation of the Ophelia Sweater from The Row. We chatted about current WIPs, mindless projects and the beauty of learning a new skill.

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Sophie: Hi boxy.knit, It’s so nice to meet you! Before we get started, could you tell me a little bit about yourself? Whatever you feel like sharing: where you’re from, what you do outside of knitting, or even just what’s currently on your needles.

Boxy.knit: I’ve always been a maker, if there’s a project I dream about, I’m already halfway through sketching it out. For the past five years, knitting has been my main creative outlet, though I started out as a crocheter. I’ve also dabbled in sewing, doodling, clay and recently, paper flowers. Current projects? Oof, I think I’m juggling five WIPs:

• Test knitting a bandana for Yndlingstrikk (in love with the structure)

• Fagerborg overall

• Weekend hat

• A freehand cashmere bandana (I’ve shared my notes on TikTok)

• “Twist It” sweater but in stockinette

• A pair of boucle loafers, and thats 6 wips 😅

S: Six WIPs! That’s impressive! I only just started keeping two projects at once, because I used to hyperfixate on one until it was done. What makes you want to juggle so many? Is it the fun of variety, or do they all serve different moods?

B: I need the variety and swapping between projects; different yarns, textures, project sizes, and levels of focus keep things interesting.

S: That makes a lot of sense. Do you remember what inspired you to pick up knitting? Was it love at first stitch, or did it take a while to click?

B: In Norway, we learn to knit in school, but I was firmly Team Crochet through my early 20s. During the pandemic, I crocheted a vest and tried to mimic knit stitches, but they were fiddly and yarn-hungry. I needed a new challenge. Enter: knitting. My first attempt was the Novice Cardigan, with YouTube as my online coach. Let’s just say... gauge was a mystery, and I didn’t try it on until the end. The result? A majestic humpback cardigan. I abandoned it (and knitting) for six months. Eventually, I returned and made a couple of sweaters, most too big or too small. Discovering knitting Instagram and YouTube was a game changer. I learned so much from generous knitters sharing tips, techniques, and yarn wisdom. I was a quiet lurker at first, soaking it all in, until I felt the urge to share my own yarny adventures.

S: Oh, I love that! And me, too, I was a crocheter first as well before switching. Do you think crochet helped you ease into knitting? And do you still crochet sometimes, or has knitting completely taken over?

B: Totally! Crochet gave me a head start with tension control. I mostly knit now, but the summer brings out an urge to crochet a bag or two. The loafers I’m trying to make are done in crochet, mostly for a tighter and stiffer fabric.

S: That’s true, I remember my crochet pieces were always quite stiff, too. So when you picked up knitting again, how did you relearn it? Was it mostly YouTube? And if you could go back, is there anything you’d do differently?

B: We learn the basics in school here, and I remember knitting a few things as a kid. But now? YouTube is my knitting guru and absolute lifesaver 🤍 If I could go back to when I picked it up again, I’d spend more time in yarn shops asking about fiber types and gauge. Sadly, that wasn’t an option during lockdown.

S: Yes! YouTube is such a lifesaver. And I can’t imagine learning without it either. Now that shops are open again, do you spend much time in yarn stores, or do you mostly order online? And speaking of yarn: have you discovered a new favorite lately?

B: It’s a 50/50 split. I buy online when I know the yarn well, or if it’s a new yarn I want to test out that’s unavailable. I’ve ordered a couple of times from woolyyarn, they sell dead stock from the Italian clothing industry at decent prices. Some of the cashmere is the softest yarn I’ve ever felt! I love the baby cashmere from Loro Piana, but a more affordable option is Soffio from Lana Grosso (cotton, merino and cashmere) as a substitute for mohair.

S: That sounds amazing, I need to check that out asap! And I have to say, I really enjoyed following your journey recreating the Ophelia Sweater. It turned out so beautifully and I was so impressed by the construction and details. Was that your first recreation, and what did you learn from the process?

B: Thank you, that means so much 🤍 I’ve been dreaming of that sweater ever since I saw Brittany Bathgate wear it several years ago. It wasn’t my first recreation. I self-drafted a version of the Scarlet cardigan by Khaite, but the non-superwash merino grew so much, the cinched waist vanished into thin air. I often tweak patterns, usually swapping for finer yarns and recalculating stitch counts based on gauge and desired ease. It’s like math, but with fluff. For the Ophelia sweater, I had to deep dive into twisted increases (I think that’s what they’re called?). Hours on Pinterest and YouTube later, I cracked it (I think?). I adore the final result, though I skipped the dramatic sleeves, a decision I now regret after seeing the “Mostly knitting” (on YouTube) version in a cream yarn from a Tasmanian farm. I might just knit another?

S: Brittany Bathgate is such a big inspiration for a lot of my knitting projects. And I think knitting another Ophelia Sweate would make total sense. That was also quite a big lesson for me: the first attempt is never 100%. What do you enjoy most about reverse-engineering a garment?

B: Yes, that is very true. And that is also a lesson from my first years of knitting, having to unravel a lot. Hm, I think I really enjoy the challenge of creating a garment from scratch without a pattern, and it’s easier to do that from a design I’ve been eying. It’s a bonus recreating pieces I’ve been dreaming about, especially when originals are pricey or include polyester.

S: I agree that’s one of the best things about knitting! Talking about starting from scratch, now that autumn is approaching, do you already have projects in mind? Is there a theme/trend that inspires you or is there something new you want to learn?

B: I’m in a bit of a sweater rut, my neck isn’t vibing with 4.5 mm needles right now. I’m working on a three-stranded cashmere version of the Twist It sweater, but the yarn feels oddly cottony pre-blocking. My solution? Buy more yarn (obviously) and plan gift knits:

• Fagerborg overall in KFO merino + mohair in the colour cognac –

• A self-drafted sweater for my nephew in Double Sunday cream with poppy red stripes

• Mittens: I especially love the pattern “Siri aller enkleste votter”

• A few beanies inspired by Pinterest (no patterns in mind, might self draft)

• I’m dreaming of a black tee in cashmere, silk, and merino.

But for now, I’m leaning into only knitting projects that give me joy, and that looks like small mindless projects.

S: Those projects sound amazing! I’m looking forward to seeing them come together. You mentioned mindless projects. What makes a project mindless for you?

B: If it’s stockinette or a repeat I can knit without squinting at the pattern every row, it’s in the mindless zone.

S: Even better when it’s stockinette in the round! Looking back, do you think knitting changed you somehow?

B: Absolutely. Creativity has always been my calm space, but knitting taught me that patience and persistence pays off. You need hours, even years, to master a craft. And I still feel like I have a lot more to learn. So to anyone starting a new hobby: embrace the awkward phase. You have to be bad before you get good. That’s how growth happens, and it’s beautiful.

S: Yes, I agree! Every day it’s a few rows, but after a few weeks or months, you have a whole knitted peace. What do you still hope to learn or explore in your knitting journey?

B: I’m dreaming of diving deeper into freehand knitting. Top of the wish list: a dramatic deep V-neck sweater.

S: I’ll keep my eyes open for that one! Thank you so much, I had such a great time talking to you!

This was the first conversation of hopefully many more. Do you have a lot of knitting friends or are you in a knitting club?

xx, Sophie

Each edition will be a curated collection of designs published on Ravelry in the previous month. With this series, I especially want to feature designers who don’t (yet) have a huge following and create a little space here for their work. However, I still want to feature patterns that meet a certain quality standard. I will always look through comments, test knits and project pages (if there are any) and check whether the descriptions are clear.

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1. Tank Tops & T-Shirts

Cotton Slub Top-down Short-sleeve by Daeri Kim (Banul): What immediately drew me to this top is the wavy texture of the cotton yarn, combined with the slouchy silhouette. The yarn reminded me of the Gepard Cotton Waves, which I think is a great substitute if the original Korean yarn isn’t available for you. The bobbly, unfinished-looking structure gives the fabric a lot of character without needing a complicated stitch pattern. I love the relaxed silhouette that makes this an easy everyday piece, but at the same time, it’s one of those tops you can dress up or down. I would pair it with linen trousers for something casual or a skirt and sandals for a more elevated summer look.

The Square Top by nakedknit: The Square Top looks like the kind of basic you’d find at Brandy Melville. The cotton and cashmere blend makes for a nice balance between soft and cool, which makes it a perfect piece all year round. I imagine it worn casually with a skirt in summer and layered underneath a cardigan during colder months. This is the first time I came across a pattern by nakedknit, but she already has quite a few patterns published. Most of them are loungewear and bralettes.

Seabound Tee by Rhonda Yerxa: What caught my eye is the wavey lace pattern and the crisp contrast of blue and white stripes. It has an understated nautical look, but it is still a bit of a statement piece. I’d probably size up a little for a breezier fit, which I think would make it perfect for summer. The saddle shoulders and yoke shaping also show how much thought has gone into the construction.

2. Sweaters & Cardigans

OGDEN by Veta Romanenkova: The Ogden is a beautiful worsted-weight cable sweater, which is one of those no-brainer autumn knits. I love the clean construction and the loose fit, which makes it both cosy and elegant. The cable design feels simple and not too busy. It was my first time coming across this designer, and now I already have my eye on a few of her other patterns. If you’re looking for a worsted weight cable sweater this autumn, this might be a great option.

Elizabeth Pullover by Miranda Copeland: I gasped a little, when I spotted this one. This pullover is so adorable, with the little cow motif on the front. You can knit it with either duplicate stitch or intarsia, so there’s some flexibility depending on what technique you prefer. I especially love the green version, where the cow basically stands on a large green field. The cow theme matches perfectly with the overall construction of the sweater. Just a simple drop shoulder and crew neck neckline. It is such a fun take on a classic pullover. Definitely one to add to your list if you like fun details. Btw, she is currently working on a duck sweater, if that is more your thing.

Blomren Jacket by Malin Borgersen: The Blomren Jacket is a dreamy lace cardigan that immediately made me think of Sezane, because it has that same soft, romantic feel. The lacework is delicate, so maybe not something you would associate with autumn. But, the use of cashmere mohair might make it surprisingly warm, and it could be a piece you could wear well into the colder months. The design combines elegance with comfort, and I think it could easily become a staple layering piece. If you love whimsical knitwear, this one is for you. Malin Borgersen has already quite a few patterns published, one dreamier than the next, so if that is your thing, check out her other designs, too.

Velvet Loop Sweater by Natalja Ledvanova: This pattern reminds me a lot of the Ophelia Sweater by The Row. The dramatic sleeve shaping, drop shoulder and oversized silhouette are very similar. If you love that designer look but don’t feel like spending €1200, this could be a great alternative. The sweater is knitted in aran weight and has a big positive ease of 20-30 cm, making it a very cosy sweater option for autumn. I’m personally not a fan of the suggested yarns, but with some adjustments, this could definitely become a perfect dupe for the Ophelia.

Flora by Lucía Ruiz de Aguirre: This is such a charming retro-inspired colour work sweater, with flower motifs across the yoke. The stranded design feels playful with endless colour options. You can make it either very soft and muted or bright and bold for a true 70s look. It’s definitely a bit of a statement piece, but together with jeans and some boots, this would make for a very cute outfit.

Weasly sweater by RitaKhor: This is a perfect pattern for any Harry Potter fan. I love the raglan construction and the neat details around the neckline, which make it feel polished even with the initial on the front. It’s such a great project to cast on while rewatching the films, and fully immerse yourself in that world again.

3. Other patterns

Luna Skirt by Heather Jackson: Another very dreamy pattern, the skirt is shaped with faux lace pleats and finished with a folded waistband for an elastic fit. You can add a laceweight mohair trim at the hem, which gives it this very airy, almost ethereal look. Yet, the detail with the two stripes in different thicknesses, makes the whole design feel a bit more grounded. It looks like such a fun project to knit and style.

Dodo Hat by Elina Hildén: What I love most about the Dodo Hat are the different stripes, which are horizontal at the folded brim and vertical ones on the crown. This design really invites you to experiment with different colours, and because it only requires small amounts of each, it would be a fantastic stash-busting project. I can see this being one of those patterns you knit again and again, because there are so many ways to play around with colour. And, of course, it’s a great gift knit.

4. More noteworthy patterns:

• Clematis Sweater Chunky by Emma Maier: Two years ago I knitted the normal version of this sweater, which is knitted in DK weight yarn. It’s a great pattern and I am just as much in love with the chunkier version.

• Cocoa Sweater by Olive Lime Knits: This only comes in one size, so its unfortunately not very size inclusive. But, the big cable pattern across the whole sweater looks so gorgeous with it’s dramatic, yet somehow minimalist appearance. I had to at least mention it here.

• May Sweater by AprilKnits: A simple blouse with lace details around the cuffs and the hem. Knitted in linnen, it would make for a great late summer and spring piece.

• Two-way Pullover My Size by Min-Young Han: A raglan construction with beautiful cable details interwoven into the raglan lines and the sleeves.

• Honey Jacket by Anne Ventzel: One day I will knit a pattern by Anne Ventzel, all of them look so polished and well thought through. This one is no exception. This stitch pattern together with the details around the cuffs and neckline - a dream.

You can find the full Ravelry bundle here.

Which pattern is your favourite or which made your knitting wishlist? I’m in love the Elizabeth Pullover and the Dodo Hat.

Thank you for being here. If you enjoyed this article, leave a like or share it with another knitter. It truly means the world to me! If you’d like to support my work more directly, you can also buy me a coffee over on Ko-fi.

xx, Sophie

Other articles you might find interesting:

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1. Avoid straight knitting needles

One of my first and worst knitting purchases was a pair of long straight needles. I bought them when I was just starting out, and they almost made me give up knitting altogether. They’re big, awkward, and it feels more like you’re tossing a salad than knitting something cosy. They’re also very impractical to carry around, and you can only knit flat pieces that need to be sewn together later.

Circular needles, on the other hand, are so much easier to handle. You can knit flat or in the round, they’re more ergonomic, and you can take them anywhere. If you’re just starting, a few circular knitting needles in a couple of sizes and lengths are more than enough and, trust me, it’ll save you a lot of frustration. Additionally, I would suggest going for wooden needles. The surface is less slippery than metal and gives your yarn more grip.

2. Knitting in the round

As I did not know about circular knitting needles, I also had no idea that it was possible to knit in the round. Traditionally, pieces are knitted flat and then seamed together, which can seem very intimidating when you are new to knitting. Sewing seams is an additional technique, and for me, it created a big psychological barrier during my first project. I remember finishing the pieces for my first patterns, only to leave them lying around for weeks because I dreaded sewing them up. With patterns worked in the round, you don’t have that problem. You just keep knitting, and can watch your project taking shape as you go. Those little wins were so much more motivating for me as a beginner.

Of course, knitting in the round has its own challenges, but I think the benefits far outweigh the cons, especially when you’re starting out.

3. Buy that pattern

If you are starting a new hobby, it’s normal you want to avoid spending a lot of money. Although knitting is quite accessible, the purchases add up quickly. You need yarn and needles, stitch markers, needles for sewing in the ends, and it’s then temping to skip purchasing a pattern and go for a free YouTube pattern. The problem is, free patterns are really hit or miss. Sometimes they’re great. For example, Florence Miller’s free Step-by-Step Sweater on YouTube is supposedly amazing, but that one is designed with beginners in mind. Others, however, might not be more confusing, incomplete, or just not designed with beginners in mind.

I’ve seen friends get discouraged because their finished projects didn’t look anything like the photo, and honestly, it was just down to a bad pattern. If someone sells a pattern, especially as a beginner-friendly design, they’ve usually put more thought and care into it. Some designers even include video tutorials or extra resources that match the pattern exactly.

One of my favourite designers for beginners is the Dreamknit Design Tool, which generates clear and structured patterns, based on the yarn and gauge that you have.

4. You can learn as you go

I still don’t read patterns from start to finish. Maybe that’s a bad habit, but honestly, I often don’t have the headspace to visualise the entire project at once.

The trick is to go line by line. If the pattern says make one right increase, pause, look it up on YouTube, and keep going. That’s how I taught myself to knit, and it’s still how I knit today. I’ve probably searched for “tubular bind-off” for every project that needed one. I still look up how to fix dropped stitches. And over time, I’ve improved techniques, like German short rows, just by finding better tutorials.

You don’t have to know everything upfront. YouTube is an endless library of tutorials, so use it, and learn step by step as you knit. And in the worst case, there is also always the option to unravel parts and start again.

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5. Sweaters are easier than they look

This one surprised me the most. Sweaters look intimidating because they’re big projects, but they’re actually some of the easiest garments to knit. If you choose a pattern with a bigger gauge (so a chunky yarn, bigger needles), they knit up surprisingly fast.

To make a basic sweater you don’t need to know a lot of advanced techniques. I would say five techniques will get you a very nice sweater: 1. casting on, 2. increasing, 3. binding off, 4. a backwards-loop cast-on under the arms, and 5. picking up stitches here and there. That’s it. Compared to a beanie, which has a smaller circumference, fiddly decreases, and sometimes even short rows, sweaters can actually be simpler.

When I taught a friend to knit, she struggled at first holding the yarn and needles, but starting with chunky yarn and big needles helped her get used to the movements. If you’re new, I’d especially recommend raglan or yoke sweaters. They’re straightforward, forgiving, and very beginner-friendly.

6. Blocking does not mean you throw things into the washing machine

Also not on the delicate cycle.

I learned this one the hard way. The first vest I ever knitted went straight into the washing machine on the wool cycle. It didn’t felt completely, but it stretched, lost its shape, and just looked very sad. I did the same with a beanie once, and while the polyester blend saved it from disaster, it still wasn’t great.

Proper blocking means gently hand washing your finished piece, laying it flat on a mat or towel, and shaping it to the right measurements while it dries. That’s when the stitches relax, the fabric evens out, and the project takes on its final polished look.

7. No one notices your mistakes, except yourself

One of my best friends and I used to sew together, and whenever we made a mistake we were too lazy to fix, we’d say: “It’s fine. No one will notice”. Which is true.

When you wear something handmade, people usually don’t even think about asking if you made it yourself. And if they do notice, most store-bought clothes have their own flaws, too. I’ve bought pricier blouses that, on close inspection, have crooked seams and loose threads. Or seen people wear knitted sweaters with stretched-out stitches at the shoulders. Compared to that, most handmade pieces actually hold up better.

Sometimes I can get very self-conscious about all the small mistakes I made in my projects and other people notice them, but so far I have never got a comment.

Those are seven things I wish I’d known when I started knitting. Hopefully they can save you from some of the mistakes I made or keep you motivated to stick with your knitting journey.

What do you wish you had known before you started knitting?

Thank you for being here. If you enjoyed this article, leave a like or share it with another knitter. It truly means the world to me!

xx, Sophie

Many studies highlight the mental health benefits of so called grandma hobbies, such as, knitting, crocheting or gardening. These activities have been shown to lower heart rates and blood pressure, contributing to a sense of calm and relaxation. Knitting (and crocheting) can release endorphines, which elevate your mood and decrease stress.1

Increased endorphine levels are linked to reducing depression, anxiety and stress. They can also boost self confidence and improve self-esteem.2

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A study published in The British Journal of Occupational Therapy found that 81% of knitters reported to be in a good mood after knitting. The researchers were able to determine that there is a significant relationship between people who knit and feeling calmer and happier.3

Knitting offers the opportunity to set and achieve goals whilst continuously learning new skills, whether it's knitting a simple scarf or working through a complex cable pattern with a lot of new stitches. This can create two benefits: creating something tangible with your own hands can boost both your self-esteem and confidence. Additionally, knitting engages and improves various cognitive skills, such as problem-solving, planning, and decision-making. This mental exercise keeps the brain sharp and can improve memory and concentration over time.4

Even if you are not the anxious type in general, knitting can help you to achieve a “flow” state. A flow state arises when people enjoy what they are doing, are feeling fully engaged and immersed in their activity. In the flow state, the brain releases dopamine, the part in the brain that produces negative emotions becomes less active, and learning and memory is enhanced.5

I Think I’m Doing This Wrong

But recently I have been feeling more and more anxious whilst knitting. At the beginning of the year I started a new job, which has longer hours than the job I worked before. This meant I had much less time for knitting. Often I would get frustrated, when I realised that I would not be able to finish the sleeve tonight, or the Italian bind-off had to wait until weekend. Even when I was knitting I was always thinking about the next project that I wanted to cast on or when I would buy the yarn for that project. On top of that I set myself ambition goals, like developing a pattern for a cardigan. When my first attempt did not go as planned, it took me a week to recover my joy for knitting.

And this was the point at which I realised I was doing something wrong. Clearly, a hobby should not stress me out so much.

Reading this article by Forbes, which discussed why grandma hobbies are so beneficial knitting made me realise what I was missing.

Grandma hobbies can reframe our sense of productivity. Creative activities, compared to goal oriented hobbies like solving puzzles, are not focused on the end product, but about the process. They challenge the idea that all of our waking time needs to be fully optimised. Knitting, crocheting or gardening are, if judged purely by output, very time ineffective. But still, taking over a 100 hours to stitch a sweater together, challenges this mindset of efficiency that we have in our culture and can help to slow down.

Closely linked to the aspect of productivity, is the idea that grandma hobbies are simply done for the sake of it. Knitters might decide to knit a lace shawl, because it is nice to sit on the sofa with a hot tea and detach from the busy world for a little bit. Or gardeners, garden not necessarily to grow all their produce and be self-sufficient, but because they like being out in nature. In both cases, the end result comes secondary.

And I realised were I went wrong:

First of all, I put all my hopes and dreams on a single project and too much emphasis on the final result instead of the process. Knitting had become just another productive task like work for me at which I needed to complete as fast and efficient as possible.

Secondly, I set myself deadlines, even when there was not a specific day that I wanted the finished the projects, I had a mental deadline when I wanted to be done.

Lastly, I was doing too much for validation. Not necessarily on social media, although it probably played a role, too. But I put a lot of my confidence at stake whether I would be able to design a cardigan by myself.

How to Knit and Keep Calm?

First, I thought I have to loosen up my hyperfocus on one single project. I was a monogamous knitter, always knitting one project only. I couldn’t understand why anyone would want more than one project; surely it would just take longer to finish anything. But now I know the answer, at least for me. Working on two projects at once has loosened my attachment to the progress I make on each project. At first, I switched between them every other day. Now, I might work on one for several days before returning to the other.

Dividing my attention span over two projects also has loosened up the timeline in my head. Before, I could estimate quite well how long a project would take me on average, now with two projects that’s a little bit more difficult to say. I even forgot when exactly I cast the projects on, so I can’t tell how long I am actually knitting on them.

That’s why I’m considering adding a third project to my WIPs. I love knitting because it allows me to express myself and make my style more personal. Sweaters and cardigans are the most obvious way to do that, which is probably why I’ve never been much of a sock or scarf knitter. Since no one really sees them, why bother? But then, it again becomes about the outcome. Hence, I want to cast on more projeckts like socks or scarfs, even gift knits, which are not just for my self expression.

The last thing I want to do is go beyond knitting sweaters. For two and a half years, I was only focused on the productive side of knitting, i.e. creating garments. And that is fine. I also played tennis for over ten years never watched a Grand Slam match. It is okay to be interested in only one aspect of a hobby. But, I want to dig deeper into other aspects of knitting, for example, the history of knitting, the different traditions, such as Fair Isle and Aran sweaters, different types of yarn and how they are produced.

Social Media, Knitting and Fast-Fashion

I see a lot of videos on TikTok asking for tips how to knit faster or joking that “I don’t knit relaxed, I knit like I have a deadline”. And I think they are not meant to be harmful, but they perpetuate the fast-fashion mindset: if I want something I want to have it immediately. I think this does not help to make this a hobby that is beneficial for our mental health. I know we all want cool stuff and maybe it is not that deep, but appreciating the process more and what you already have is important, too.

What about you? Do you get stressed when knitting and how do you deal with it? Do you have one WIPs or multiple?

Thank you for being here. If you enjoyed this article, leave a like or share it with another knitter, it truly means the world to me!

See you next week,

xx, Sophie

Other posts you might like:

Each edition will be a curated collection of designs published on Ravelry. Although I love Ravelry, the user interface isn’t exactly inspiring for browsing endlessly in search of the perfect pattern. I often catch myself relying on the designs that are popular on social media instead. With this series, I especially want to feature designers who don’t (yet) have a huge following and create a little space here for their work. That said, I’ll still want to feature patterns that meet a certain quality standard. I will always look through comments and project pages (if there are any) and check whether the descriptions are clear.

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I hope this series inspires your next cast-on or introduces you to a new favorite designer.

Marielle Blouse by Maria Shei Morgenstad: This dreamy, simple lace pullover with a contiguous construction, would be the perfect option for early spring days or a colder summer evening. Held together with a lace mohair and light fingering weight merino it reaches a gauge of 20 sts x 30 sts. Marielle already has a few other designs published, and they all look equally dreamy and well thought out.

Weave Cardi by Siv Årsand: Four horizontal and vertical stripes create a grid effect. The colour options are endless for this one and I think it would be a lot of fun creating a colour palette for this one. It uses aran weight yarn and the 100% wool yarn gives it a rustic look, but I think it could also work well with a smoother merino/cashmere yarn for a more “chic” look.

Pippa Tee by Marie: This is an adorable fitted baby tee with cap sleeves and a side slit that is closed with buttons, giving this tee a fun twist. It is knitted with DROPS Bomul-Lin, which is a very affordable option and comes in the sizes 1 through 7 (which covers bust circumferences: 79 - 115 cm). Marie also has a few more other pattern published, one being the Rory Sweater, which has been on my wishlist since last winter.

Miu Top by Una Gil: The off-shoulder fit and the wide ribbing at the bottom immediately caught my eye. The pattern is knitted with sport weight yarn or light DK weight and it comes in sixes XS to XL. The designer recommends any yarn as long as it is a wool or wool-blend to make sure the ribbing will hold its shape. I love the light colours of the sample pictures, but I think this pattern could be a very cool top for going out, maybe in a black merino silk blend with a glittering supporting thread.

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Ella Tank Top by Imogen O’Brien: This looks like the perfect summer top for beginners. With a boat neck, thin straps and rolled edges, not a lot of techniques are required for this one. Although it has a gauge of 30 stitches x 44 rows, it is not very oversized with a positive ease of 2.5 - 8 cm and could still knit up fairly quickly. Since it is knitted top down, the final length can be adjusted easily.

Gaia Tee by Cookie the Knitter: If you are looking for the perfekt t-shirt for the summer, this might be it. Holding two strands of Knitting for Olive Pure Silk together this top features a saddle-shoulder construction. With a gauge of 20 x 30 sts this will knit up super quick - maybe still in time for late summer.

Lottazipper by lesfillesducoeur: This is actually part of a set, which would make a cute loungewer outfit, together with the earlier released Lottapants. It comes in sizes XS to XXL and the recommended yarn is Filcolana Arwetta and Lana Grossa Ecopunto. I love the two tone stripes but I am imagining it with three different coloured stripes in different widths.

Shiro Cardigan by Knits by Summer: A light, slightly oversized cardigan with a saddle shoulder construction. The pattern uses a DK weight yarn, with a fingering and lace yarn held together. It reminds me of Petiteknits Maggie Cardigan, but with a more relaxed fit.

New Boxy Tee by Ohwataknit: The tee has a very oversized shape (25-30 cm positive ease) with a folded hem, a crewneck and no sleeves. What caught my eye are are the wide shoulders that look like they are padded. This effect is created by attaching knitted triangles to the armhole and folding them in. The yellow looks great, but I could also imagine this in black, paried with a silk skirt for a night out.

Cozy Summer Blouse by Ines von Homeyer: This blouse with the little tie in the front is knitted with ITO Kinu or Sandness Garn Line, so it has a worsted weight. It has a cute split detail at the hem and is finished with i-cord edges around. At the moment, the pattern is only available in German, but I think one of the common translating tools will probably be able to translate it to English.

A few more releases from some household names:

• Twist Light Loop Sweater by OtherLoops: The normal version of this sweater has been on my wishlist for ages, but this version looks so dreamy, too.

• Audrey Cardigan by Pernille Larssen (Knitting for Olive): Instead of the i-Cord bow in front, I would add a cute button, and switch the mohair for a cashmere thread.

• Juno Bag by Petiteknit: This bag looks like a fun challenge for more experienced knitters. I love the half-moon shape and linen look, but I wonder if an effect yarn could turn it into a truly funky bag. If I try it, I’ll report back!

• Josephine Top by Lily Kate France: Such a fun sporty top, knit with a 2x2 rib. Again I imagine it as a very cool top for going out or in a lighter colour paired with wide jeans and sneakers.

• Vest No. 10 by MyFavouriteThings Knitwear: Ever since I saw the first picture of this set, it’s been living rent-free in my head. Instead of knitting it in a single color, I’m tempted to try stripes.

You can find the full Ravelry bundle here.

Which pattern is your favourite or which made your knitting wishlist? I am dreaming of casting on the Umi Top.

If you enjoyed this round-up, feel free to leave a comment or share this post with a fellow knitter, it helps me more than you know!

As always, thank you for being here and I will see you next week!

xx, Sophie

If you don’t feel like diving into that one, here’s a quick summary: it was an amazing visit. The sheer variety of yarns was overwhelming in the best possible way, the staff was incredibly friendly, and with the clanging of the spinning machine in the back, I felt like I was inside a working factory. For 37€, I got a 450g cone of custom yarn, which was a blend of 50% mercerized pima cotton, 35% merino, and 15% silk.

(If you haven’t heard of mercerized cotton, it is cotton that's been treated to give it a smoother texture, more sheen, and better dye uptake. It also increases the strength of the fibers and makes them more durable. When knitting with it, it feels smoother and less “rough” than untreated cotton.)1

This post isn’t a review of the yarn, exactly, because no one else can buy it, so it wouldn’t make sense. Not even I could recreate it, as I didn’t write down the exact yarn IDs or the exact mixing ratio of the threads. (I could kick myself for that). Still, I wanted to follow up on my previous post now that I’ve knitted something with it and discuss whether it is actually worth it getting a customised yarn blend.

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First things first: the yarn on its own wasn’t ideal. I used it to knit the Manon Cardigan by Moreca Knit, and even though I got the correct gauge for my pattern, the resulting fabric was too loose and stretchy. After some trial and error (and more online yarn research and futile purchases than I’d like to admit), I found ITO Gima 8.5, which added the right amount of structure. In the process, I learned a lot about yarn substitution and the effect of different fiber types on the fabric.

It’s also important to note that yarn spun on cones like this isn’t twisted the way most commercial yarn is. You’re essentially knitting with 12 or more fine threads held together, which increases the chance of splitting stitches or accidentally dropping a strand. It required more attention than I’m used to, and I wouldn’t recommend it for mindless knitting.

But despite all that: I’m very happy with how the project turned out. The colour, the texture, the feel of the finished fabric is very close to what I had imagined. And I’ll admit it is very satisfying to know that my Manon Cardigan is unique.

Was it worth it?

It depends. I know, this is not a very satisfying answer. But I don’t want to close that door, yet. Just thinking about walking through the rows of shelves, looking at all that yarn, brings me so much joy. But, as a hand knitter, most of the time it does not make much sense to me, if I had a knitting machine, getting yarn on cones would make more sense. Overall, the amount of trial, experimenting, and uncertainty is a bit stressful. Sometimes you just want to knit up that sweater and don’t think much. So, I think I’ll mostly stick to the traditional skeins and balls for now.

Still, the idea of personalisation is tempting. It is very special and a lot of fun, too, to create a yarn combination that is just yours. So, I could see myself going back to get a carrying yarn like mohair or cashmere in the future. But there’s also a comfort in using something that’s already been tested, swatched, and reviewed by dozens of knitters before you.

In the end it’s a trade-off: the personalised yarn offers more opportunities for experimentation, but with it comes a bit of a risk. And depending on the kind of knitter you are (or the kind of week you're having), that can be either very inspiring or just too much work.

For me, I think it’s maybe a “once in a while” thing. For a special project perhaps, where I design the pattern myself, and not the new normal for all my projects.

Have you knitted with yarn on cones before? How would your dream yarn combination look like?

See you next week,

xx Sophie

Other posts you might be interested in:

The Manon Cardigan (Ravelry Link | Designer Website) is one of the preppiest patterns I have come across. It stands out as a very elegant piece that can be worn casually with jeans and flats, but also dressed up for the office. But let’s start from the beginning.

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Pattern Overview

Pattern Details:

• Designer: Moreca Knit

• Difficulty: Advanced (Weighted Average on Ravelry = 5.6, I agree with this, an adanced beginner or intermediate knitter can absolutely knit this )

• Stitch: Moss stitch

• Needles: 4.5 mm

• Gauge: 20 sts x 30 rows = 10x10 cm

• Ease: 5–10 cm positive ease

• Sizes: XS to 3XL

• Recommended yarn: Cosma by Lamana (€6.50/50g → total yarn cost ~€52–91)

Construction:

The cardigan is worked using a contiguous construction. It begins at the back with short row shaping for the shoulders. Front shoulder stitches are then picked up and shaped along the neckline. Sleeves are picked up from the shoulders and the front and back sections are joined. Then, the body is knitted flat until it reaches the desired length. Lastly, the button bands, neckline and sleeves are knitted.

Pattern Experience

This was my first pattern by Moreca Knit and I was pleasantly surprised by how clearly the pattern was laid out. It reminded me of PetiteKnit’s minimalist and clean layout.

What I loved:

1. The layout was clean and structured with plenty of space for notes and counting rows

2. A lot of visualizations, e.g. for short row shaping, shoulder joins, and increases

3. My favourite thing was the YouTube playlist with supporting video tutorials, which was accessible via QR code or link. I love it when knitting designers show how they do certain things, and I picked up a few new techniques I’ll use again

4. I had a question about a section in the pattern and send a meassage via the contact form on her website and she replied within 24 hours

Minor Issue:

The button band cast-on in the video tutorial didn’t quite match the written instructions, which confused me quite a lot, as the left and right sides are worked slightly different. But with a little bit of thinking it was easy enough to figure out. In the end I followed the pattern instructions rather than the video.

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Yarn Choice & Substitutions

One small downside of this pattern is that there aren’t many yarn alternatives if you’re looking for something with drape, sheen, and summer-appropriate fiber.

I wanted a rich dark brown yarn, and after a lot of trial and error, I ended up combining my customised yarn from the Wollfabriek with ITO Yarn’s Gima 8.5 (col: 0034 Chestnut).

Depending on your tensions and gauge, here are some other possible substitutes:

• Drops Muskat is the most budget-friendly (€2.15/50 g) option. It is a 100% mercerized cotton yarn with a beautiful sheen. I have seen a couple of projects on Ravelry using this yarn.

• Hobbii Bamboo Fine (held double = approx. 105 m/50 g) is a blend of 60% bamboo viscose and 40% Tencel. It is slightly more expensive (€5.90/50 g), but given this fiber I think it produces a smooth, structured fabric with a slight sheen.

Final Results & Modifications

Overall, I’m very happy with the outcome. I knitted size S, which has a final bust circumference of 98 cm. For reference, my actual circumference is 91 cm but I could have sized down to an XS if I wanted a more fitted garnment. I also added a few centimeters to the body length.

I still plan to sew the button band closed as it tends to gape a bit when worn. Another knitter has mentioned this on Ravelry, so it seems to be common with this pattern. I don’t mind this, because I was not planning to wear the cardigan open anyways, but maybe something to consider. Aside from that, the fit is great.

Would I Knit This Again?

I’d definitely knit it again maybe in a dark red or soft blue for a true Blair Waldorf moment (if I am brave enough, usually I am quite scared of colour).

Overall, this is a great project for intermediate knitters looking for a chic wardrobe staple with a few technical challenges.

Would you knit this cardigan – and if so, in which colour?

See you in two weeks!

xx Sophie

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The Finished Objects

The first project I finished was the Sophie Scarf by Petiteknit. It was a spontaneous cast-on when I found myself projectless in another city. I used Yak by Lang Yarns, which is thicker than the pattern recommends, and added a contrasting i-cord. The result was a bit more bulky, but a very cozy scarf. I would recommend this project to beginners, but more experienced knitters might find it a bit boring.

The second project, the Fat Fur Beanie by Spektakelstrik, was also unplanned. I had wanted to knit with chunky mohair for a while, and the Biches & Bûches mohair was too tempting when I saw it at my local yarn store. Unfortunately, the yarn is quite pricey, and I had to buy an extra ball because my gauge was too tight. Knitting with double-stranded chunky mohair was a bit hard on my wrists, but I love how the finished hat came out: it’s fluffy, bold, and very warm.

My first garment of the year was the Manon Cardigan by Moreca Knit. It’s one of the preppiest patterns I’ve seen and it combines a Chanel-inspired silhouette with a more laid-back Scandinavian feel. I searched quite a while for the right yarn because I wanted to knit it in a dark brown. In the end, I combined yarn from the Wollfabriek

with ITO Yarn Gima 8.5 (colour: 0034 Chestnut), a pure cotton. It worked beautifully and knitted up surprisingly quickly. I can dress it up or down, and it’s great at regulating temperature. A full pattern review is coming soon!

Finally, I knitted my first pair of socks using the Basic Socks pattern by Paula Strickt with Merida yarn (colours: Natural 00 and Pine 34) from Lamana. Socks weren’t high on my list, and the heel construction initially worried me, but surprisingly I really enjoyed knitting them. The pattern is very accessible, and the rounds fly by. For my next pair, I’d like to try thinner yarn, perhaps the Cash Sock by Gepard Yarn, which, I think, would make the perfect pair of cozy winter socks.

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The "Failure"

This is where I took on more than I could handle: my first attempt at drafting my own cardigan pattern. It didn’t work out, but I learned a lot along the way:

1. Pattern books on construction are often outdated and I’ve found it more helpful to study existing knitting patterns to understand different constructions.

2. Steeking isn’t that scary. Even with smooth yarns like merino (this guide really helped me). But you need to be 100% sure you’ll finish the project. Once you steeked, there’s no going back.

3. A contiguous sleeve construction achieves a similar look to set-in sleeves, but with the advantag of seamless shoulders and no short-row sleeve cap shaping.

4. Majo Garn Fine Merino is one of the softest merino yarns I’ve worked with, but it splits easily and stretches a lot after blocking. Holding it together with silk mohair solves these issues, so I would still recommend it.

Current WIPs

Until recently, I was a monogamous knitter, but it made me rush through projects just to cast on something new. Now I’m working on two projects at a time and switching between them every other day makes me more relaxed and I enjoy the knitting process again.

Are you a monogamous knitter, or do you have multiple projects at the same time?

I’m once again attempting a self-constructed cardigan, this time with a raglan construction. I feel much more confident now, thanks to the techniques I picked up from the Manon Cardigan and by studying other raglan patterns. I’m knitting it in Filcolana Peruvian in the colour French Vanilla.

The second project is the O-neck version of PetiteKnit’s Kumulus Tee, knitted in Pure Silk from Knitting for Olive (colour: Brown Bear). It’s a slow one on 3mm needles, but such a timeless basic that I know I’ll wear it for years.

Looking Ahead

For the second half of the year, I’d love to continue drafting patterns, I have a few more cardigans I want to knit, and go for a cable sweater for winter. If you have some recommendations for cable knits please leave them below. I also want to stay mindful about my pace and enjoying each project instead of rushing to the next cast-on.

How has your knitting year been so far? What are you looking forward to in the coming months?

See you (hopefully) next week!
xx, Sophie

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Die Wollfabrik / The Wool Factory

Then I remembered Die Wollfabrik in Hamburg. It is a bit out of the way in an old industrial area, so it took me a while to get there and I got a bit lost trying to find it. I had seen pictures before, but this was even better in person. Just being surrounded by so much yarn made the trip worthwhile.

Unlike the cosy yarn shop I usually go to, the Wollfabrik is a warehouse full of yarn. Instead of selling pre-packaged skeins, they have cones of yarn stacked on shelves that reach to the ceiling and are stored in large wooden boxes. They stock all kinds of fibres: merino, cotton, silk, linen, cashmere and even angora. The range of colours is beautiful, too, and I felt like a kid in a candy store. At the back of the shop, a mechanical spinning machine rattles as it spins yarn onto cones.

So how does it work?

As you can see on the pictures, the yarn on the cones is too thin to knit with by hand. When I walked in, one of the staff explained the concept and how it works: You choose the yarn you want, as well as the thickness. Depending on how thick you want your yarn to be, they will add the required number of threads together. This means you can mix and match different types of fibres and colours. All the information about fibre content, weights and the number of strands required for each needle size is labelled on the shelves. Next to the shelves are large gauge swatches so you can see how each yarn will knit at different thicknesses. If you are not sure how many skeins and cones you will need in the end, the staff is very helpful.

Once you have made your decision, they will use their spinning machine to wind your yarn onto a fresh cone. This takes about 6 minutes and then your personalised yarn is ready.

What I bought

After browsing and probably circling the whole shop at least twice, I landed on my final choice. It was a good thing I had a good idea of what I wanted, otherwise I would still be there trying to decide. I ended up with a 100% pima cotton yarn and a 70% merino, 30% silk blend. They blended both yarns in a 50/50 ratio, so my final yarn is 50% cotton, 35% merino and 15% silk. I got 450 grams for just 38€, which felt like a great bargain.

One thing to note is that the strands aren't spun as tightly as traditional yarn. So the strands can split very easily. But I think the price, the opportunity to mix your own yarn, and the quality of the yarn make up for it. I am super excited to try out my customised yarn and share my final thoughts with you, once the cardigan is ready!

Do you have a similar shop in your area? Have you knitted with this type of yarn before?

See you next week and until then: happy knitting!

xx Sophie

Sometimes I get decision fatigue and pick the first pattern I see that I like. So in January I found myself knitting Camisole No.9 from My Favourite Things Knitwear. Camisole No.9 is a small top knitted with silk. Living in northern Europe, that means I won't be able to wear it for another three or four months. On the one hand this is great because it prolongs the "newness" of the project. On the other hand, I sometimes forget that I have it at the back of my wardrobe.

Now that I am nearing the end of my current project, I want to be a bit more intentional about choosing my next one. Mostly, I want to knit something that I can wear as soon as it comes off the needles.

Here is what I will consider:

1. What are my wardrobe needs?

2. Do I want to relax or challenge myself?

3. How much time and effort am I prepared to invest?

4. What kind of yarn do I want to use?

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What are my wardrobe needs?

When choosing your next knitting project, it can be helpful to think about the gaps in your wardrobe. I like to think about the items that are missing but would make it easier to get dressed in the morning. I try to take note of it in the moments when I stand in front of my wardrobe and think “I have nothing to wear”. This could be an everyday basic, such as a warm hat or scarf. It could be something for a specific season or occasion, such as a light jumper for autumn or a nice evening top. You can also think about colour and style gaps. If you usually gravitate towards one colour, your next project could be a great opportunity to make a change.

Sometimes a piece can look great on its own, but can be quite difficult to integrate with the clothes you already have. Last year I made a lot of collages of outfits I imagined with my knitting projects. It really helped me to make sure that the project I chose suited my personal style and was a great addition to my wardrobe.

Do I want to relax or challenge myself?

Once you have decided what item you want to knit, you can consider whether you want a relaxing project or something to push your skills and learn something new. Sometimes I find that the best thing to do after a long day is to knit a stockinette project in the round. Other times I prefer to knit with cables or different colours. A nice way to add some variety without necessarily choosing a challenging project is to knit something you've never knitted before. I heard sock are actually quite easy to knit, but so far I haven’t dared to knit a pair.

It might help to think about what your life will be like over the next few weeks. If you have other commitments, it might be nice to do a simple stockinette project that doesn't require much attention. But, this could also be a great case for having multiple projects going on a once. One for the weekday evenings that meditative and relaxing and one for the weekend when you have more time to sit down and digest a complicated knitting chart.

How much time and effort am I willing to invest?

Another consideration is whether or not you have a deadline. If you have a special occasion coming up, such as a birthday or a holiday, a simpler project that's quicker to knit might be a better choice. Unless, of course, you are very good at long-term planning. Once I got up at half past five in the morning for a full week to finish a sweater that I desperately wanted to wear on my holiday. Sometimes, especially when the seasons change, I want a quick knit to fill a gap in my wardrobe.

What yarn do I want to use?

Although this is the last question, it can also be a starting point. You could go to your local yarn shop and see if anything catches your eye. Or you might already know that you want to knit with linen, silk or mohair and choose a pattern that will work with the yarn you've chosen. Even if you are knitting a simple stockinette project, choosing a new type of fibre can change the knitting experience.

How do you select your knitting projects? Are there any aspects that I missed?

See you next week and until then: happy knitting!

xx Sophie

Here are four of my favourite yarns from two years of knitting experience.

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#1: Silk Mohair by Isager Yarn

Composition: 75% Mohair (Super Kid), 25% Silk | Weight: Lace | Length: 212m = 25g

I recently saw some creators on Tiktok discussing whether or not mohair is a corporate cash grab. In some cases it might be. Especially if it's not well made and itchy. But not all mohair is the same. I have used 4 different mohair yarns so far, two of which I have lost the label, Soft Silk Mohair from Knitting for Olive and the Isager Mohair yarn. Of these, Isager Mohair is my favourite. I used it to knit the Cumulus blouse from Petiteknit. I don't have the most sensitive skin and I can wear it with a tanktop underneath. I have also found that the yarn washes very well. After washing it is a bit scratchy, but after a few wears it gets soft again.

#1.5: Silk Mohair + Tvinni by Isager

Composition (Tvinni): 100% Wool | Weight: Light fingering | Length: 225m = 50g

The second time I used Isager Silk Mohair was in combination with Tvinni from Isager. Tvinni is a light fingering yarn from 100% wool. I knitted the October sweater from Petiteknit and the two yarns make a very airy and soft fabric. Even though Tvinni is a wool yarn, the combination with the mohair makes it very wearable. My favourite way to wear the jumper is with a light top and it doesn't itch. In comparison, I knitted the Eira jumper with Soft Silk Mohair and Merino from Knitting for Olive. I find that the fabric created by these two yarns is more itchy and I prefer to wear a t-shirt underneath.

#2: Brushed Alpaka by Drops

Composition: 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk | Weight:Aran | Length: 140m = 25g

But if mohair isn't for you, you've probably heard of replacing it with a brushed Alpaka yarn. And with good reason. I first knitted the Clematis jumper with Drops Brushed Alpaka and Baby Merino. Last winter I knitted balaclavas using Brushed Alpaca in combination with other Merino yarns. The fabric that the alpaca created together with the merino is buttery soft and cosy. I'm not a fan of the Drops Merino I used in the combination, but it's on my list to knit with Brushed Alpaca again. I am currently eyeing Paula Strickt's Berlin Scarf. But that will have to wait until autumn. The only drawback I have to mention is that it pills quite a bit compared to mohair. I am okay with removing the pills, if If I get this super soft fabric out of it.

#3: Yak by Lang Yarns

Composition: 70% Merino Superfine, 30% Yak | Weight: Worsted | Length: 120m = 50g

And here I have another soft yarn. I found this yarn when I saw the beautiful sweater No. 30 by My Favourite Things Knitwear on Instagram. When I discovered it in the shop I was surprised how soft it was. Maybe I haven't found the right merino wool yet, but I think it’s not the most comfortable yarn. Unless you have a superwash merino. But the 30% of yak wool makes this yarn almost as soft as cashmere. It is not cheap; 50 grams costs 15€, but in comparison the Large Cashmere from Cardiff Cashmere costs twice as much. I used this yarn to knit the Sophie scarf from Petiteknit when I was in that weird phase between projects. To be honest, I haven't blocked the scarf yet, so I can't say how much it will block. But the Sophie scarf is very soft and warm against my skin. I also loved knitting with this yarn. It is recommended to use 5mm needles, so it knits up quite quickly. The yarn does not split and holds its shape well even after unravelling a few times. I know because I had to start Sophie's scarf twice.

#4: Heavy Merino by Knitting for Olive

Composition: 100% merino wool | Weight: Aran | Length: 125m = 50g

This is the first yarn that's a bit rougher in look and feel, but I love the character it adds to my knits. I knitted Vest No. 1 from My Favourite Things Knitwear with this yarn after debating for a long time whether to use this or the recommended Gepard yarn. Now I am so glad I chose the Heavy Merino. Not only was it much cheaper, but I love the clear stitch definition and the fabric. Especially the twisted ribbing looks great with this yarn when you go down a needle size. I knitted with Knitting for Olive Merino before, which gives a drapey, light fabric. But I prefer the Heavy Merino and the denser, more textured fabric it creates. I find that this yarn holds its shape very well, it doesn't stretch much with blocking and everyday wear. Overall, I loved the process of knitting with this yarn. The yarn does not split easily and the rough texture makes it easy to work with. It is not slippery on the needles like some superwash merino yarns. So far I haven't noticed much pilling, but I'm looking forward to seeing how this yarn wears out.

What are your favourite yarns?

See you next week and until then: happy knitting!

xx Sophie

Disclaimer: The patterns that I mention here are all beautiful and very well written. The reasons why I don’t wear the pieces are my fault alone!

So this is what they have taught me:

#1: Make sure the yarn matches how you intend to wear the piece

My fourth project ever was a turtleneck vest knitted with Isager Alpaca 2 and a mohair. I was inspired by these fitted, chic cashmere turtlenecks.

You can probably see the problem. The turtleneck of this vest is so itchy that you need the skin of an elephant to wear it. My skin is a little more sensitive, so I keep this vest in my wardrobe.

Since that experience, I try to think about the end use of the garment I am knitting. I know that I can knit oversized jumpers with scratchy wool because I can wear a T-shirt underneath. For tighter fitting projects I choose softer yarns like merino, alpaca silk or cashmere.

#2: Don't ignore the yarn weight of a pattern

A yarn combination I love is Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk held together with Drops Fine Merino. Together they make an aran weight yarn that feels great against the skin. So I decided to use this combination for the Clematis jumper.

What I didn't know at the time was that substituting an aran weight yarn for a DK weight yarn 1:1 could result in a very bulky garment. Especially if you are a tight knitter. Unfortunately that is what happened to my Clematis jumper. It looks very bulky and is quite heavy, which stretches the fabric even more.

So now when I knit my gauge swatches I try to think about the final fabric that this yarn and needle combination will create. I take note of the drape and gauge of other sweaters that I have knitted. Sometimes I knit up gauge swatches just for fun to see the effect of different gauges on the yarn.

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#3: Take your time to knit a proper gauge swatch

What difference can it really make if I have 23 or 24 stitches per 10 cm? Quite a big difference, actually. When I knitted the Eira jumper last winter, it came out almost 10cm smaller around the bust than it should have. It still fits me and I have worn it a lot, but the fit feels off. I feel uncomfortable while wearing the jumper: the back is a little too tight and the sleeves are too short. I was only one stitch short in my gauge.

I remember knitting the swatch for this project. I was impatient to start my new project and chicken with the yarn. As a result I made a couple that were no larger than 5 x 10 cm and then chose the one that was closest to the pattern. Knitting them flat was a mistake too, but let's leave that for another time.

I recently got Patty Lyons' book and I realised why. Knitting tiny gauge patterns is as helpful as knitting none at all. Since then I have been knitting bigger swatches, more like 15 x 15 cm. Sometimes I knit two or three until I get the gauge I need for the pattern. If I like the look and feel of the fabric but am off gauge, I adjust the stitch count.

#4: Superwash yarn stretches, like a lot

Last summer I knitted a sweater using two strands of superwash. I made a proper gauge pattern, calculated my rows and stitches. Then when I knitted it, I added a few rows of shaping on the fly because the jumper looked a bit too small.

When I blocked it, it grew two sizes. Especially the sleeves and the neckline stretched due to the weight of the yarn. So what happened this time?

Apparently when you block a pattern knitted in superwash you need to hang small weights from it. This will give you a realistic idea of how much it will stretch. I didn't do this, so I overestimated the number of stitches and rows I needed.

#5: Remember you are building a wardrobe for yourself

A lot of the projects I've unravelled or hidden in my wardrobe are the result of impulsive decisions. Either I was influenced by pictures I saw on Pinterest or Instagram, or I had to buy this yarn.

I love being inspired by social media, but not everything I like fits my personal style. So last summer I made Pinterest collages to visualise the outfits I would wear with my projects. It helps me to be more conscious about the projects I choose and not fall into the trend trap.

So I have a few skeletons in my closet. But now I know better than to knit a turtleneck with mohair, and I think that's progress. I think many of us love knitting for the opportunity it gives us to create timeless, beautiful wardrobe staples, but we shouldn't forget that it's a skill that needs to be learned. Not all projects need to become family heirlooms. Some are lessons in yarn choice, personal style and construction.

Do you have any yarn skeletons in your closet?

Happy knitting, and I will see you next week!

I lov cashmere, care deeply about sustainability, and am always cold. For a few years now I have been drawn to slow fashion, curating a wardrobe that I love, and making my own clothes.

Two years ago I stumbled into knitting by chance. It was not a conscious decision, but once I realised that it allowed me to make my dream pieces from the materials that I love, it was over for all my other hobbies.

So far I have shared my love for knitting on TikTok and Instagram, but for some time now I have been craving a different kind of space. A calm space that allows for long conversations around knitting and building a community. Knitting, to me, is such a peaceful, slow, and relaxing activity, and I want a platform that reflects that.

So I want this newsletter to be a place for:

• Yarn, yarn recommendations, and substitutions

• Pattern reviews and collections by different themes

• Book reviews

• Techniques, tips, and tricks

• General thoughts on knitting

• Slow fashion

• Learning how to knit

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Mostly though, I want this to become a place where we can talk about knitting, exchange ideas, and make connections.

Thank you for reading, and I am so excited to start this journey with you! I will see you next week.

Sophie