The southern French coast, stretching between Montpellier and Perpignan, is home to several lagoons. Historically, the inhabitants knew how to use some of these lagoons by extracting salt. For instance, in Peyriac-de-Mer, an epitaph proves that the Romans already knew the value of this white gold. Although salt harvesting ceased in the 1960s, you can enjoy a variety of beautiful walks around the string of ‘étangs’ and the old salt works. Whether you’re looking for a short, medium, or long hike, there’s a trail for everyone.

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Saline

Since the twins were studying hard for their exams, it was no fun being at home last Sunday. So, as soon as we had our breakfast under our belts, Chéri and I laced up our walking shoes. Direction: the lagoons near Peyriac-de-Mer. We had previously walked the short loop around the ‘saline’ (the former saltworks) a couple of times. This easy walk, partly on wooden boardwalks above the water, starts from the L’Illette parking area. It takes you on a 2.7 kilometre, 45-minute walk around the small lagoon closest to Peyriac-de-Mer. The chances of spotting some flamingoes are high. The kids loved having the house to themselves, so it encouraged us to stay out for hours. They didn’t have to tell me twice; it was the perfect excuse for me to choose the longest hike.

Tour des Lagunes

Checking the Visorando app, the biggest circular walk was the Tour des Lagunes, spanning just over 13 kilometres in four hours. The path would lead us from La Saline to the Étang du Doul and finally the Étang de Saint-Paul. Keep in mind that this walk isn’t marked on the signs at the l’Illette Parking. Therefore, we followed the interactive Visorando map (also available for free). If you prefer marked trails, you can go with the previously mentioned Saline walk. Other options are the Boucle des Étangs (5.8 kilometres in 1 hour and 45 minutes) or the Boucle des Crêtes (5.7 kilometres in 1 hour and 45 minutes). The first part of the hike followed the Saline and included some wooden pontoons. Of course, the flamingoes in front of Peyriac-de-Mer completed the picture. We also enjoyed observing a black-winged stilt protecting her three chicks.

Fierce Breeze

Leaving the boardwalks behind, we continued to Le Mour Hill and then to the Étang du Doul. The vistas on this lagoon on one side and the Étang de Peyriac-de-Mer were stunning. The fierce breeze, quite common in this region, blew through us. Yet, it didn’t stop a few people from swimming at the little beach by the Étang de Doul. Up until this point, the hike was the most beautiful. Chéri noticed that we could walk back to Peyriac-de-Mer at one point, but I insisted on completing the loop around the Étang de Saint-Paul. Mainly because I’m always afraid of missing out on things. But honestly, this part wasn’t as pretty as the first two lagoons, with a poorly signposted path that brought us through a burned forest with black trees all over. We managed to return to Peyriac-de-Mer just in time for goûter (tea-time) with the kids!

Good to Know

Peyriac-de-Mer is a sweet little village, located by a string of lagoons. Several signed trails start from the l’Illette Parking area. The easiest one is the 2.7 kilometres loop around La Saline, which is very accessible for children. However, keep a close eye on young ones, as there are no barriers on the boardwalks. Other options include the Boucle des Étangs (5.8 kilometres, approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes) or the Boucle des Crêtes (5.7 kilometres, approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes). There is little shade along the trails, so be sure to bring enough water,  food, and sun protection. After your efforts, you can reward yourself at one of the several restaurants and bars in Peyriac-de-Mer.

Parking

It isn’t possible to park in Peyriac-de-Mer, therefore, it is best to use one of the designated parking lots outside the village centre. The starting point for all three walks is at the L’Illette parking lot.

Maison du Tourisme Peyriac-de-Mer

From September till June:

2 Place de la Mairie

11440 Peyriac-de-Mer

+33 (0)4 68 42 68 42

From July to August:

A hostess on a tricycle will be present on the Promenade de la Saline and in the village centre from Tuesday to Saturday.

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Just outside Agde’s town centre, at the Parc de Belle-Isle, lies an architectural jewel worth discovering. Château Laurens, named after its Agde-born creator Emmanuel Laurens, is a magnificent example of late 19th-century architecture. Being an avid traveller and an unrelenting dreamer, Emmanuel Laurens had grand ideas. And that’s why you will discover three distinct architectural styles featured in this château-slash-villa, from Art Nouveau to Oriental influences and inspirations from Antiquity. Get your camera ready and join a guided tour to marvel at this recently renovated masterpiece.

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Parc de Belle-Isle

Enjoying one of the many spring holidays, Chéri and I decided to visit Château Laurens in Agde. I had heard about its renovation and seen amazing pictures of its interior. So, I was excited to finally go on a guided tour and see it for myself. The entrance to the château is through the beautiful park called Belle-Isle, leading to the ticket office and shop. You can only visit the interior with a guide, and various tours are available. Chéri and I opted for the general one-hour one, priced at 18 euros per adult. We had to wait a little and relaxed in the lush garden before we joined our fellow visitors at the entrance steps. Our guide was visibly passionate and proud to showcase this hidden gem. A few kids from our group helped push the enormous entrance door, revealing a breathtaking decor.

Eclectic Interior

The minute Chéri and I entered Château Laurens, the eclectic interior embraced us. It’s not often that I find myself speechless by so much beauty! Of course, I took pictures, but they hardly do justice to what we experienced. Exploring the place, it was remarkable to think that it was conceived by the creative mind of a single individual. Emmanuel Laurens was a medical student when, in 1897, he inherited a vast fortune from his distant cousin. It was enough to abandon his studies immediately and sail off to enjoy life. Later that year, his father passed away and left him the Belle-Isle plot in Agde. Returning from his long journey across Russia, Uzbekistan and Austria, Emmanuel’s wish was to build himself a castle inspired by his travels. Not to live in, but to ‘faire la fête’. And so he did, in only three years’ time.

Innovative Features

Although a dandy of his time, Emmanuel was also a visionary who incorporated modern ideas into his castle. Starting with the actual location: right next to the railway. Nowadays, people typically avoid living near train lines, but at the time, it showcased Emmanuel’s forward-thinking approach. As did the reversible heating with floor vents and false wooden ceilings with hollow beams for electricity cables. It was the ultimate paradox to combine these modern novelties with the elaborate Art Nouveau, Oriental and Antiquity designs. After visiting some bedrooms and the dining room, we ascended a magnificent staircase to the first floor. There, we visited the ‘laboratory’ in a Catalan Art Deco style, featuring a decorative chimney lined with cement tiles from a different area. Combined with the windows, it’s stunning in its own way. Our guide then took us to an unfinished room that displayed renovation plans and examples of the restoration process.

16 Years of Renovation

After years of lavish parties, Emmanuel’s funds dwindled. This led to years of neglect until the municipality of Agde purchased the property in 1994. It took a total of 16 years to restore Château Laurens to its former glory, culminating in its reopening to the public in 2023. And they did a great job! The guide had to call me back to the group several times because I couldn’t stop photographing the extraordinary details. To preserve the monument, visits are limited and only possible with a guide. The last stop on our tour was back downstairs, in Emmanuel’s private quarters, where he retreated after his financial decline. Notably, his office, with its colourful stained-glass windows, is particularly well-preserved. Ending our visit on such a high note will linger in my memory for a long time. Some places are better experienced than photographed. Château Laurens is definitely one of those!

Good to Know

Château Laurens is located in Belle-Isle Park in Agde and can only be visited on guided tours. Several tour options are available, starting at 18 euros per adult (free for children under 12), which can be booked online or on-site (though booking online is advisable for guaranteed entry). The garden surrounding the castle is open to the public, closing at night and on some holidays. The park is open continuously and features picnic areas. From Agde, you can reach Château Laurens on foot via the footbridge at the beginning of the Avenue Raymond Pitet.

Parking

Please note that parking closest to the château is reserved for holders of a reduced mobility card. The nearest parking lot is located at the train station.

Château Laurens

Domaine de Belle Isle

Avenue Raymond Pitet

34300 Agde

+33 (0)9 71 00 53 00

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You could describe Bistro Urbain’s cuisine as gastronomic without froufrou, and Chef Cédric Sangenito and his team are passionate about locavore cuisine. The result is carefully crafted dishes coming out of the kitchen of this lovely restaurant in the historic centre of Montpellier. And as a visitor, I love having a pretty plate, but knowing that what I eat comes from local producers makes it even better.

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Romantic Tête-à-Tête

Spending a long weekend in Montpellier with Chéri and the twins meant that our dining preferences weren’t exactly aligned. The teens wanted a burger, whereas I longed for a fancy dinner with Chéri. No need for candle light, but I imagined a romantic tête-à-tête in a restaurant that I had been following for a long time. After the twins’ hamburger feast, Chéri and I walked through the charming streets of the lively Saint-Roch neighbourhood. It has many restaurants and bars, which we all skipped as we headed to Bistro Urbain. You might think I dine weekly at the fanciest restaurants, but it’s actually been a while since Chéri and I had to put proper napkins on our laps. On warmer evenings, it’s lovely to sit outside. This time, we opted for a table indoors, surrounded by a warm, sophisticated interior.

Entire Menu

A restaurant like Bistro Urbain achieves perfection down to the very last detail, as reflected in its menu options. In the evening, you can choose from three set menus. The Oreste Menu (40 euros) consists of a starter, a main course, and a dessert. The Echo Menu (47 euros) adds an amuse-bouche, a ‘Trou Occitan’ (more on that later), and a sweet finish. And finally, the Pandore Menu (57 euros) includes a second main course. Chéri and I opted for the happy medium and decided to include the accompanying wine pairing (three glasses for 27 euros). Since there were two options for each course, we ordered the entire menu. Quite outrageous by our standards! The evening began with an amuse-bouche (a mini taco with blue crab and miso mayonnaise), followed by homemade tortellini for Chéri and a tuna tartare for me.

Trou Occitan

With our taste buds tingling, we moved on to a magret de canard (Chéri) and a piece of swordfish (moi), both served with deliciously prepared spring vegetables. Then came a pause: an Occitan take on the ‘Trou Normand’. This Normandy culinary tradition designed to cleanse the palate includes a small glass of Calvados and apple sorbet. Bistro Urbain’s interpretation featured ‘La Croqueuse’, a locally brewed, peppy apple liquor. After this break, Chéri’s love for lemons led him to choose the crèmeux de citron, leaving me the ‘baba au rhum’. Now, normally I’m not a big fan of this spongy cake drenched in rum. But I loved it and completely understood why this emblematic dessert is a keeper on the menu. Chéri and I were glad to have swapped burgers for this fine-dining experience. Bistro Urbain has definitely moved from my wish list to my favourites.

Good to Know

Bistro Urbain is a gastronomic restaurant run by Chef Cédric Sangenito and his team. They offer several set menus during lunch (Wednesdays to Saturdays) and dinner (Tuesdays to Saturdays, in summer also on Mondays). Making a reservation online through their website is a breeze.

Parking

The nearest paid parking options are Parking TaM Gambetta or Parking TaM Comédie.

Bistro Urbain

5 Rue Alexandre Cabanel

34000 Montpellier

+33 (0)6 60 94 96 16

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June in the South of France is a month of abundance, full of colour and sunshine. And poppies, so many poppies. Is it just me, or are there more fields of ‘coquelicots’ than usual? The market stalls are overflowing with local cherries and strawberries, which turn my lips red with happiness. The twins, though, still have a month of hard work ahead of them, as they have to study for their exams. And when they have their Bac (France’s final secondary school exam) in their pocket, it’ll feel like the end of an era. But first, there’s the whole summer to enjoy.

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The best part of being a property finder is getting to peek into many different properties. As my clients all have different search criteria, I get to see a lot of houses. An ordinary day starts with reading my emails and entering enquiries into our system. Some people clearly know what they want and ask only for a specific property on France Property Angels’ website. But then there are clients who share a whole list of their wishes. And that’s when my heart skips a beat, and I start scanning the whole web. It’s a huge help to any realtor you’re contacting to know exactly what you’re after. Of course, it depends on how far along you are in your search, and these criteria may change as you go along. But location, number of bedrooms, outdoor space and budget already make a big difference.

House with Pool

My service is free in most cases because I share the commission with my partner estate agent. That means I handle all enquiries and organise viewings, which can save you a lot of time and frustration. As you may have experienced yourself, not every French estate agent likes to return calls or reply to emails... A few months ago, this lovely couple contacted me in their search for a house with a pool in Béziers, within walking distance of the city centre. Not an easy assignment, but I managed to send them a list of eight properties. Two of them were represented by one of my partner agents, two with realtors I didn’t know, and two were no longer for sale (thank you for keeping your websites up to date…). So, when my clients came, I had organised a packed afternoon of four viewings.

Pool Party

When people are searching for a place in Béziers, they are mainly focused on the area between the cathedral, Place de la Madeleine and Place Jean Jaurès. I sometimes try to expand their search area by proposing the Arenas neighbourhood (cute boutiques, lovely restaurants, the municipal pool) and the area around the Boulevard de Genève (beautiful houses, calm yet close to the city centre). This was the case with my clients who were determined to find a property with a pool. Three of the four proposed houses were in these two neighbourhoods. Funny enough, the one rare find in Béziers’ historic heart (pool included!) didn’t make their shortlist. In the end, the couple fell in love with property number two, made an offer that the vendors accepted, and are now in the process of buying. This summer, they’ll be able to throw their first pool party in the South of France!

Here are some examples of properties with a pool:

Countryside House near Saint-Chinian

Contemporary Villa in Sérignan

MyFrenchLife™ – MaVieFrançaise®

MyFrenchLife™ – MaVieFrançaise®: Gain a deeper understanding of France beyond the cliché.

By Judy MacMahon—Fondatrice

In our two-year property search to start our tiny house project, Chéri and I have visited about 25 properties. We went to a beautiful house run as a B&B in Capestang with extra land to buy (too late, it was sold within days). I also remember a characterful mas between Narbonne and Gruissan, with generous proportions (and a creepy attic). Or the castle-like estate in Vendres with a huge garden all the way to the beach (in between two campsites and loads of structural issues). A serious option was a property between Murviel-lès-Béziers and Causses-et-Veyran. The house was not too big, and there was a barn we could turn into holiday homes. The 1 hectare plot of land was just perfect, flat and with fabulous views. But when going to the town hall to ask if it would be possible to construct tiny houses, the answer was a firm ‘non’!

Main Issue

Visiting all these properties refined our search criteria. If there was a house on the plot, it should be manageable with minimal work. Chéri and I definitely didn’t want a house from the eighties. Nor the seventies or the sixties, for that matter. In fact, we realised that we definitely wanted something with character. Usable outbuildings were a plus. Collapsed barns with birds’ nests, not. And the main issue was the land, as I really had to pay attention to whether it was buildable. I learned a lot about the PLU, short for Plan Local d’Urbanisme (local urban planning rules). It made me realise that there isn’t much room to build in the area of communities we were interested in. In the meantime, we moved to Béziers, and I had other things on my mind.

Lower Expectations

Once the dust had settled after our move and most of the boxes had been unpacked, I finally had my head clear enough to focus on our tiny house project again. With my wishlist in hand, I still couldn’t find a suitable house, and I started to question the whole venture. In my frustration, I decided to lower my expectations. I started by adjusting the size of the land, as that seemed the biggest bottleneck. I reduced my initial wish from 5,000 m² to 4,000 m². Still a reasonable plot. And the minute I changed this search criterion, suddenly, an interesting listing popped up. More on that in the next newsletter.

Below, I share the introduction to my Hérault travel guide. Upgrade to receive a new chapter every month, starting with Montpellier next month.

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When you think of the south of France, the sun and sea likely come to mind. However, there are also charming little towns to visit near the beach for a break from sunbathing, such as Marseillan. This little town is a few steps from the Mediterranean Sea and sits along the shores of the Étang de Thau. The lively harbour with the sound of singing masts will draw you in immediately. Sit at one of the bustling restaurants, enjoying a plate of fresh oysters straight from the lagoon and a glass of Picpoul, and you will understand the southern French joie de vivre.

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Oboes and Drums

Historians believe the Greeks founded Marseillan around 500 BC. Romans and Visigoths followed, before the town became part of the French kingdom under Pepin the Short in 761. Now fast forward to the beating heart of the town: the harbour. As early as 1642, King Louis XIII moored here to the sound of oboes and drums. And in the early 18th century, the port took on the permanent form we see today. It was a golden age thanks to fishing and the wine trade. After the Second World War, trade declined. But tourism soon filled this gap, replacing fishing boats and merchant barges with pleasure boats and sailing ships. Today, the marina remains a hub of activity, while the surrounding houses stand as quiet witnesses to days long past.

Day in Marseillan

It’s easy to spend a day in Marseillan. Although the summer months are the town’s peak season, with many day-trippers parading along the quays, spring and autumn are also wonderful times to visit. Let me share my recent experience, which began, of course, at the harbour. More specifically, I started at the square in front of it, aptly called Place Noilly. It’s named after France’s oldest vermouth producer, Noilly Prat, another good reason to visit Marseillan. The first thing that caught my eye was the steel sculpture by artist Medhi Melhaoui representing a wave. As I strolled along the ‘quais’, I discovered more art pieces, including the oyster shell statues at the end of the harbour. And walking back into town revealed work by Jean Denant on the left side of the Château du Port. Can you guess what it represents?

Markets Days

After lunch (oysters and Picpoul, obviously), I continued my exploration and headed to the town centre. While it isn’t large, I found some delightful shops and boutiques, several restaurants that I noted for future visits, and two covered markets. The newer market, shown in the picture below, dates back to the 1930s and is open on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. And is still active for daily shopping on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. The older covered market on the Place Carnot dates from the 12th century and now hosts the terrace of restaurant La Table d’Emilie (yes, I put this on my wishlist). It’s worth timing your visit for a Tuesday, which is market day in the heart of town. And during the summer months, there’s also a weekly evening market on Thursdays at the harbour. You see, in Marseillan, it feels like every day is a little holiday.

Good to Know

Marseillan is a charming town on the shores of the Étang de Thau. You’ll find many restaurants to visit, mainly around the lively harbour. Tuesday morning is market day, and several other markets are organised throughout the high season.

Parking

If you’re driving, I suggest parking in one of the designated lots as soon as you find a spot, especially during the high season and market days.

Office de Tourisme

Avenue de la Méditerranée

34340 Marseillan

+33 (0)4 67 21 82 43

website

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This restaurant might take a bit of a push to get you to step inside. I mean, a concrete bunker doesn’t exactly scream ‘cosy lunch’. Even though the location is fantastic, right at the tip of the ‘Môle Saint-Louis’, next to the lighthouse of the same name in Sète. But wait, give Amar Café a chance. Because once you’ve crossed that threshold, a spacious dining room bathed in light unfolds before you. And yes, with a fantastic view of the Mediterranean Sea.

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Sea Views

I love taking time off work and sneaking out for a bite to eat. Checking my wish list, I spotted Amar Café, which seemed like the perfect place to kick off the weekend on a Friday. I’d made a reservation just to be sure. But when Chéri and I arrived, the friendly waiter let us choose our own table. Although the bunker revealed a lovely interior, with a spacious, modern dining room surrounded by windows offering sea views, we opted for the terrace in the end. The tramontane wind was blowing, and there was a stiff breeze. The choice was between a table in the shade, a bit more sheltered from the wind, or the last table in the sun with a bit more hustle and bustle. Chéri and I went for the sun, and what the waiter cheerfully called a ‘légère bise’, or a ‘gentle kiss of wind’.

Drifting Thoughts

It took us a while to make our choice from the appealing menu; it was so lovely to gaze out over the sea and let our thoughts drift away. We were getting a bit peckish, though, so we finally made a choice. The restaurant’s name, ‘Amar Café’, comes from the Latin ‘amare’, which means ‘to love’. Chef Santiago Sandoval cooks with Mediterranean influences and seafood flavours. During the week, there is a set menu for 28 euros (starter, main, dessert). But you can also eat à la carte (starters between 9 and 13 euros, mains between 18 and 29 euros, and desserts between 10 and 12 euros). In addition, every Friday evening outside of the high season, there is a dinner show featuring jazz, cabaret and theatre taking the centre stage. And on one Sunday a month, you can enjoy a tea dance. Plenty of entertainment here on the pier!

Full Focus

We were there for lunch, so there were no distractions from upbeat music or a stunning sunset. That meant we could focus fully on the food on our plates. And happily, the kitchen delivered the goods. Chéri chose the starter (the Samba broth with tuna and coconut milk) and the main course (fillet of mullet with seasonal vegetables) from the lunch menu. I opted for the à la carte options and started with a friture du jour, followed by a delicious vegetarian spanakopita. Then we swapped, and Chéri had the chocolate ganache with cocoa crumble from the à la carte menu. I had his lunch menu dessert, which was a rice pudding with buckwheat milk. It was all delicious, and thankfully, the flavours didn’t get blown away.

Good to Know

Amar Café is located on Le Môle Saint-Louis, the pier that also houses the Phare Saint-Louis. Chef Santiago Sandoval cooks with Mediterranean influences and seafood flavours. The restaurant is open for lunch from Tuesdays to Sundays, and for dinner as well on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Keep an eye on their socials for special events, like the Friday dinner show and the Sunday tea dance. Worth reserving before you go.

Parking

There is a convenient paid parking lot right next to the restaurant at Le Môle Saint-Louis. It might be a smart idea to do so, as finding a parking spot in Sète is quite difficult.

Amar Café

Le Môle Saint-Louis

34200 Sète

+33 (0)7 45 16 02 75

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A recent visit by two of my best friends involved a lot of delicious food and wine, so a hike seemed like the right way to keep us in shape. Therefore, I included a trip to the beautiful waterfront forest near Frontignan. Le Bois des Aresquiers is a protected natural site, just a few steps from the tourist hustle and bustle of the Mediterranean beaches. This unique area, nestled between the lagoons of the Étang d’Ingril and the Étang de Vic, is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna.

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Extra Loop

After an energizing lunch at Le Poisson Rouge in Frontignan (for those interested), my friends and I drove to the Parking des Aresquiers. The trail started with a sign showing a map and an explanation about the natural site. Yellow signs clearly marked the path, and we initially set out on the short 7 kilometres walk. However, the path was so easy and flat that we decided to add an extra 2 kilometres loop. The hike began with a trail following the Étang d’Ingril, where we first encountered some flamingos. At one point, I thought I spotted pelicans in the distance, which got me all excited. It turned out to be more flamingos, still a treat for my friends!

Wide Biodiversity

Soon enough, we continued the path on a boardwalk. I love boardwalks! Although it wasn’t the kind of boardwalk hike I had in mind, as it was only 20 centimetres above the ground. The boardwalk took us through the former salt marshes of Frontignan, though, covered by small bushes. We also spotted other birds, such as herons, terns, and black-winged stilts. Maybe we saw other species, but that was about the extent of our bird knowledge.... From the boardwalk, the girls and I completed the extra loop around the former salt marshes, Les Salins de Frontignan. The path brought us to what I think was the Mas des Gardes, an abandoned customs office. I could only imagine that up until the Middle Ages, the lagoons of the coastline were connected to each other. They offered merchant vessels strong protection against pirates and bad weather.

La Fontaine des Aresquiers

Times have certainly changed, as we only encountered a few fellow hikers and bikers. Salt was already being harvested here in Roman times, or so they say. Over time, Frontignan produced no less than 10,000 tons of salt per year! The salt marshes closed in 1968. Ten years later, they were transformed into one of the largest natural sites along the Mediterranean coastline. Today, the former salins and the Aresquiers forest cover almost 260 ha of protected nature reserve with a unique ecosystem. No more pirates in sight. After finishing the loop, we retraced our steps for a short distance before following the signs into a pine forest. No birds here, but shade, horses, and ‘La Fontaine des Aresquiers’, a stone shelter and drinking trough for sheep. In total, we walked for about 3 hours, covering 9 kilometres. Well worth the effort and we all agreed that we deserved a nice dinner! After all, walking gives you an appetite...

Good to Know

The circular walk at the Bois des Aresquiers lies between Vic-la-Gardiole and Frontignan. You can choose to do a shorter walk of about 7 kilometres, or a longer one of 9 kilometres. The path is marked with yellow signs and is easy to navigate, as there is no change in elevation. If you plan to do this hike in winter, be prepared for wet conditions (hence the boardwalks, which allow you to explore the landscape with dry feet). In the spring and summer it’s essential to bring enough water, sunscreen and a cap or hat. The sun can be scorching, and there isn’t much shade outside the forest.

Parking

If you’re approaching Vic-la-Gardiole or Frontignan, you can follow the signs to Le Bois des Aresquiers or Les Aresquiers. On the D114, you will find a free parking lot with a large sign providing information about the site and the trails.

Office de Tourisme

Avenue des Etangs

34110 Frontignan

+ 33 (0)4 67 18 31 60

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Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, situated in the Grand Site of the Hérault Gorges, is beautifully surrounded by wonderful nature and high cliffs. The medieval village will let you go back in time as you walk the narrow streets and admire the charming houses. No wonder it is listed among the most beautiful in France. So, let’s visit the home of the ‘sauterochers’ as the inhabitants are called (literally translated into ‘rock jumpers’).

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Medieval Village

It all started way back in the year 804 when Guilhem, Count of Toulouse, Duke of Aquitaine and cousin of Charlemagne, founded the Abbey of Gellone. Guilhem – Occitan for William – was renowned for his military actions against the Saracens to protect the southern border of the Frankish empire. After taking Barcelona in 803, he decided to lay down his weapons and become a monk. Charlemagne had given Guilhem a relic as a present containing pieces of the True Cross. Because of this relic, the Gellone Abbey attracted many pilgrims on the pilgrimage to Saint James’s Way or Santiago de Compostela. It became such a popular stop that eventually, a village was formed around the Abbey: Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.

Old Giant

Even today, the village along the- normally- gentle Verdus River is still very popular. Tourists mainly, I didn’t see many pilgrims... The weather was just perfect. Sunny, blue sky and a welcome burst of spring invited me for my first ice cream of the year. I found the perfect spot to enjoy it: at the foot of the over 150-year-old plane tree at Place de la Liberté. This old giant is hard to miss with its circumference of 6.7 meters, proudly dominating the square since 20 January 1855 (!). As it had been raining, water flowed abundantly through the Verdus River, which isn’t always the case because of drought. I could finally witness the waterfall with the village and the abbey in the background, walking along the Grande Chemin du Val de Gellone. And a bit further, on the corner with the Avenue Guillaume d’Orange, there was another smaller cascade.

Olive Oil

From the main square, I took the little alley right from the tourist office, which took me to the Rue Cor de Nostra Dona. In case you’re hungry, you will find many restaurants around. The ice cream satisfied my hunger, though, so I continued to the Rue Chapelle des Pénitents, which turned into Rue de la Descente du Portal. Here, several little shops sell local and original products made of wood, cork or soap, for example. You will also find some excellent olive oil, as Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert used to be an olive oil producer. Half a century ago, the surrounding landscape was completely different. Until the 1940s, over 30,000 trees provided an important income to the villagers. However, a terrible frost in 1956 destroyed most of these ‘oliviers’, thus cutting off an economic resource. But nowadays, you will find some new producers again.

Cardabelle

As I explored the village further, I saw some dried flowers hanging on several doors. Curious as I am, I asked a local about the meaning of these dried thistles. He explained that it was a ‘Cardabelle’, or ‘Soleil des Herbes’ (Sun of the Weeds) as the Larzac shepherds call it. Farmers hang these ‘suns’ on the gates of their barns and stables to give protection to their animals. If the Cardabelle is dried and hung on your house, it will bring luck. It’s also a natural weather forecaster: when the flower’s heart closes, rain is coming soon. Even dried flowers have this gift! You see, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert will surprise you when you take the time to get to know it.

Good to Know

The best time to visit Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is spring or autumn, as summer can get very crowded. But even then, it is worth a visit. Winters are much quieter, with fewer shops and restaurants open.

Parking

A big parking lot at the Pré des Pères is at the top of the village (called Haut du Village). One bit of advice: even though the parking fee might seem excessive (8 euros for 2.5 to 4 hours, 10 euros for 4 to 18 hours), I suggest you pay, as cars are checked regularly!

From April to October, you can also park your car at the Maison du Grand Site at the Pont du Diable (8 euros per day during the high season). A free shuttle takes you to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.

Office de Tourisme

2 Place de la Liberté

34150 Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

+33 (0)4 67 57 58 83

website

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Every spring, I realise why I stay in France. I love it when the leaves are back on the trees and the verges are full of flowers. Somehow it seems like the landscape wakes up almost overnight in the South of France. One day, the skies are grey and depressing. And the next, I have to prep my feet for summer sandals. This is the time of year when you can see the snow-capped peak of Mont Canigou from Béziers on a clear day. And Chéri and I take full advantage and lace up our hiking boots again. Hooray for May!

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I have this thing with floors. Last month, I was once again able to indulge my love of colourful, patterned cement-tiled floors in city apartments, 19th century manor houses, and a proper castle including towers. And that’s only a small part of my work as a property finder for France Property Angels. I know my blog is ad-free, and this section of my newsletter is a moment of shameless self-promotion of my side hustle. But it allows me to give you a glimpse into this part of my life through the properties I visit and the buyers I help. So every month, I will open some closed doors and reveal surprises often hidden behind them.

17th Century Castle

A couple of weeks ago, for example, I assisted a couple in search of a castle. Driving through the iron gate, the owner welcomed me, and that’s how I found myself in the courtyard of the 17th century castle in Lézignan-la-Cèbe near Pézenas. It has so much potential, with beautiful original features, vaulted rooms, and a garden with a swimming pool and views over the vineyards. And, of course, some beautiful tiled floors. Although I couldn’t resist taking pictures of the original wallpaper with matching curtains, too. There’s even a knight... Now, I realise not everyone is looking for a castle, but who wouldn’t want to take a peek behind that impressive front door?

Charming Cottage-Style House

Besides finding properties through partner realtors, I also help sell houses and take on listings. A recent one is this charming cottage-style house in the hamlet of Cazo near Saint-Chinian. Cazo itself is quiet and relaxing, with the house right on the edge overlooking the vineyards. Saint-Chinian is nearby though, if you’re looking for some hustle and bustle. One tip is the Sunday morning market, the place to stock up groceries for the week and end your shopping session with an oyster or two on the terrace. The house has been beautifully renovated and has become a wonderful place to enjoy French life. It’s full of those lovely original details, too, look at the floors below! So, you don’t need a castle for that.

Curious? Here are both properties:

Castle in Lézignan-la-Cebe

Cottage-Style House in Cazo

Letters from Maison Violette

After my kids left the nest, I felt the call for a fresh start. A French house I'd long admired went up for sale, and I took the leap. In 'Letters from Maison Violette,' I share my journey of self-discovery, new dreams, and life in the French countryside.

By Sif Orellana

Chéri and I have been working on a new project for a few years now, and as things begin to take shape, I’d like to take you back to when it all started. I remember the precise moment, waking up on New Year’s Day of 2022, with a feeling that Chéri and I should shake things up a bit. For ages, I had been dreaming of creating tiny houses in the region. However, staying in Cazouls-les-Béziers- where we lived at that time- and not doing anything wouldn’t bring me closer to that dream. So, I discussed this with Chéri and he completely understood as he felt the same way. Those were the COVID years, after all, and his work had changed drastically... We quickly came to the conclusion that the first step would be to put our house in Cazouls-lès-Béziers on the market.

Impressive Wishlist

No sooner said than done, although we sold the house a bit quicker than we thought. To bridge the time before we found our new project, the family and I decided to move to Béziers. Who would have thought… Not me when we came to the South of France in 2012, as Béziers was still known as a rough city back then. But here we were, enjoying our new city life! Once we had settled in and unpacked most of the boxes, we took a fresh look at our new project. Our wishlist was impressive (finding a not-too-big property with at least 3 bedrooms at a partially constructible plot of at least 5,000 m2 in one of our favourite villages around Béziers, no further than 30 minutes from the beach).

Listing Expert

By 2022, we had already seen quite a few houses, and I had become an expert at navigating property listings. I was focused on finding land to build tiny houses rather than a large house that required extensive renovations. Most land was unbuildable, especially if it was labelled ‘terrain agricole’ (farmland) or ‘zone naturelle’ (natural protected area). If a listing specified the land’s surface area, it often referred to the entire plot, including the house and outbuildings, rather than just the garden. That made quite a difference, and I eliminated many listings based on these criteria. To leave you on a cliffhanger, I’ll tell you about the properties we visited in the next newsletter!

Below, I share the first part of my Hérault guide- an introduction to how I ended up in the South of France 18 years ago and never left. Upgrade to receive a new chapter every month.

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Toulouse is a large city with countless restaurants. The choice is enormous, and finding the right place can be stressful (speaking for myself, at least...). Don’t worry, I’ve found a truly charming spot in the heart of the city centre. Oh La Vache is one of those restaurants where everything falls into place, and you immediately feel at home. You’ll find this charming little restaurant near the covered Victor Hugo market. The simple menu certainly helps, presenting some classics that never fail- especially when using high-quality ingredients like this is the case.

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Knick-Knacks and Trinkets

Being in Toulouse with Middlest for an open day, I wanted to make it a fun outing. After a morning of serious school stuff, we headed into town to grab some lunch. I had a few places on my wish list, but unfortunately, they were either full or closed. Just as we were about to get properly hangry, we spotted Oh La Vache, right by the Victor Hugo market. Although we didn’t have a reservation, the staff greeted us cheerfully and asked us to wait a bit for a table. That gave me a chance to take in the lovely interior. There are plenty of knick-knacks and trinkets, but somehow it doesn’t feel cluttered at all. Instead, it’s cosy and welcoming, just the way I like it.

Perfect French Feeling

Step inside and you’re whisked straight back to France in the last century. As my son so beautifully put it: “If I didn’t live in France, this would be exactly the restaurant to give me that perfect French feeling.” Oh la vache is a French expression, equivalent to the English Holy Cow! It doesn’t mean they only serve beef, though. Still, I wouldn’t send any vegetarians here, as most of the mains are meat-based, with just one fish option. The food is classic French bistro fare, with a simple menu: two starters, about seven mains, and about seven desserts. Middlest and I, of course, started with an entrée. With only two to choose from, it was an easy decision. My son, being raised in France, isn’t fazed by gizzards, so he went for the ‘salade de gésiers’. I chose the baby lettuce with mayonnaise, topped with a generous sprinkle of egg and croutons.

Gratin Dauphinois

The salads whetted our appetite, so on to the next course. Middlest fancied a good entrecôte, ‘saignant’ (rare), of course, like a true Frenchman. I preferred a piece of fish and chose the ‘saumon en papillote’, a salmon wrapped in aluminium foil and served with a leek sauce. The waitress asked if I wanted chips or gratin dauphinois, or both. The latter, of course! And that was the perfect choice, because the oven-baked potato slices au gratin were particularly delicious. Both our portions were more than enough, but there was still just enough room left for a small dessert. Middlest chose a tiramisu, and I went for a mousse aux noisettes. Both of which were presented in a glass and were just enough to call this day a success. Now, Middlest just has to be admitted to the school of his choice. You can guess where we’ll be celebrating if he succeeds!

Good to Know

Oh La Vache is a charming restaurant serving French bistro classics, whether you sit inside or out. In winter, they’re closed on Sundays and Mondays, open for dinner from Tuesday to Friday, and do both lunch and dinner on Saturdays. If you want to be sure of a table, it’s a good idea to book ahead.

Parking

There are plenty of paid parking lots in town. The closest one to the restaurant is Parking Indigo Victor Hugo, right on Place Victor Hugo.

Oh La Vache

2 Rue d’Austerlitz

31000 Toulouse

+33 (0)9 86 24 60 18

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Tucked away inland from Montpellier and Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert lies a magical natural site: the Ravin des Arcs. A short walk takes you here, at only a 45-minute drive from the city centre, and just a stone’s throw from the village of Saint-Martin-de-Londres. In this change of scenery, erosion has carved a narrow 10-kilometre canyon in the Lamalou riverbed. It features high cliffs, potholes and the highlight: a superb naturally shaped arch. The perfect environment for some exercise!

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Natural Concert

Driving to the start of the hike at the Masclac bridge just outside Saint-Martin-de-Londres was already beautiful. The road took Chéri and me through a remote landscape of garrigue, the typical Southern French scrubland, dotted with charming villages. Arriving at the trailhead, a well-designed sign listed two options. The first was a 1.5 hours back-and-forth walk of 4 kilometres at an easy level, in case there was water in the riverbed. When the river is dry, you can opt for the moderate circular walk of the same length in the same amount of time. Since the family and I normally walk longer distances, Chéri and I both thought it would be a piece of cake. The first part was easy indeed, following a gently ascending path along the Lamalou River. Accompanied by a natural concert of cheerful croaking frogs and tinkling cowbells, we reached the first panoramic view.

Impressive Arc

To get to the river, there was some climbing and descending, partly through a forest. With it being the first warm day of the year, we could feel the sweat dripping down our backs. The last bit down to the riverbed was a tricky descent, known as a ‘descente délicate’ in French. Well, there wasn’t much delicacy involved when going downhill, mainly due to the many gravel parts and loose stones. However, it was all worth it, as once we reached the riverbed, we were immediately awed by the impressive arch towering above us. During our last hike here, the Lamalou River was in full flow. Therefore, signs clearly indicated that we couldn’t cross the river and had to return the same way. Especially after the first rainfall of the year, the river can turn into a wild torrent, so be careful!

Rock Hopping

A couple of years ago, we hiked to the Ravin des Arcs during the high season and were able to cross the riverbed since most of the water had already gone by then. Although we were slightly puzzled about how to continue on our way, the signs really led us into the riverbed. Therefore, we had to step up our efforts by hopping from rock to rock. Once across, we took a moment to catch our breath and enjoy the surroundings before the workout continued… The ascent was quite challenging over a short but steep trail. But we made it, and as the path levelled out, it rewarded us with an amazing view of the Pic Saint-Loup. In the end, we completed the not-so-moderate round trip in 1.5 hours, just as indicated by the sign at the trailhead. Sweaty, tired, but satisfied. Who needs a gym when you can hike?

Good to Know

The Ravin des Arcs is a natural site in the inland area between Montpellier and Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. The well-indicated start of the hike is at the Masclac bridge on the D986 road just outside Saint-Martin-de-Londres. The trail takes approximately 1.5 hours to cover 4 kilometres. When the Lamalou River runs through the riverbed, the hike cannot be completed, and you must return the way you came. Otherwise, you can continue on the rather sporty path through the rocky riverbed, which includes a short but steep climb. Therefore, it is essential to wear good walking shoes, use sun protection, and bring water.

Parking

The hike’s starting point is along the D986 road, where you will find a free parking lot on both sides of the road.

Office de Tourisme

Place de la Mairie

34380 Saint-Martin-de-Londres

+33 (0)4 67 55 09 59

website

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The area around Les Baux-de-Provence is known as the Val d’Enfer, or Hell Valley. This mystical site was formed by centuries of erosion, sculpting impressive limestone rock formations. Its dramatic setting made it the perfect location for stone quarries for generations. Since 2012, Culturespaces Studio® has brought one of them back to life: Les Carrières de Lumières. Through an amazing multimedia show inside the former quarry, the interior transforms into an immersive exhibition that combines video and sound. This year, the spotlight is on Pablo Picasso and Frida Kahlo, alternating with Le Petit Prince starting in April. A definite must-see, if you ask me.

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Original Canvas

I still remember my first visit to Les Carrières de Lumières. It was the height of summer in 2018, and one of the themes was flower power. One tip: buy your ticket online in advance to avoid queuing, especially during the festive season. My family and I had no idea what to expect as we stepped through the entrance. But the moment we stepped through the door to enter the heart of the quarry, we were overwhelmed and needed more eyes and ears to take it all in. A vast space opened up before us, with irregular walls and pillars where blocks of stone had been hewn so many years ago. It created an original canvas, and we literally stood inside the art, with the images cascading across every uneven surface and music filling every corner. It was a fantastic experience!

Pierre du Midi

About two centuries BC, Pierre des Baux was formed in Les Alpilles. This small mountain range surrounds Les Baux-de-Provence, a recognised Most Beautiful Village of France. Known as ‘Pierre du Midi’, this slightly shelled white to pale yellow limestone gained popularity from 1800 onward. It led to the establishment of many quarries, including the Grands Fonds quarry, a predecessor to Carrières de Lumières. The quarry closed in 1935 due to a decline in orders. However, its magical interior has since served as a background for many art projects. And in 2012, the village of Les Baux-de-Provence officially converted the quarry into a cultural space. This was the birth of Les Carrières de Lumières.

Stone Cathedral

What foresight it was to repurpose this monumental space! The former Grands Fonds quarry is the perfect venue for showcasing art in a unique way. Of course, there is the quarry itself. With its immense space and 14-metre-high walls, the interior kind of looks like a stone cathedral. Then, when you add light and music, it becomes a spectacular experience that brings art to life. Since its launch in 2012, the themes have changed each year in February, highlighting masterpieces by renowned artists such as Cézanne, van Gogh, Kandinsky, Dalí, Monet, and many others.

Immersion

This year, I visited early and happened to arrive just as the new themes were being introduced: Picasso and Kahlo. In April, these two artists will alternate with the enchanting universe of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s Le Petit Prince. So if you want to be sure, it’s best to check online which show is on when you go, as it changes daily. As the artists of Culturespaces Studio® work with top-notch, high-performance technology to create these extraordinary audiovisual shows, expect complete immersion. Giant images of the artists’ paintings floated under me, next to me and above me, all accompanied by great music. For a moment, I felt as if I were walking through the history of art, and I absolutely loved it! However, no description really does it justice; this is something that you have to experience for yourself.

Good to Know

The audiovisual show of Les Carrières de Lumières runs every day throughout the year. Check their website, as opening hours change with the seasons. It’s smart to buy tickets online ahead of time (16.50 euros for adults, 14 euros for ages 7 to 25, and free for children under 7). Special rates are available, including combined tickets with the Château des Baux-de-Provence. There is also a café that offers small dishes and drinks. Keep in mind that the temperature inside the quarry is around 14 degrees Celsius, so dress accordingly, especially during the warm summer months.

Parking

Les Carrières de Lumières is a popular destination, and Les Baux-de-Provence attracts many visitors. Parking is not available directly in Les Baux-de-Provence, but you can park at one of the paid parking lots at the base of the village or along the road (also paid). There is a small paid parking lot right in front of Les Carrières de Lumières, but it fills up quickly, especially during peak season.

Carrières de Lumières

Route de Maillane

13520 Les Baux-de-Provence

+33 (0)4 90 49 20 02

website

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You'll find the restaurant of the wine estate Domaine Deshenry's in a renovated stone barn near the remains of a 12th-century abbey- Sylva de Plana. It's quite a setting to enjoy some of Languedoc's fine wines from the prestigious Faugères terroir. And they pair perfectly with the seasonal Mediterranean dishes that leave Chef Robin Alexander's kitchen. Topped off with a genuine welcome, you have all the ingredients for a good time.

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Henrys

The number of Henrys in the Bouchard family explains the name of the wine estate Domaine Deshenry’s. It is now run by Nicolas (not a Henry, but still a Bouchard) and his wife Charline, representing the fifth generation since 1998. Faith has brought the family from Alignan-du-Vent to the Faugères region, as Nicolas’s father inherited some vineyards at Laurens. It happened to be near the ruins of the Abbaye Sylva Plana, belonging to Cistercian monks over eight centuries ago. It is believed that they already produced wine back then. Today, Domaine Deshenry’s still creates IGP Côtes de Thongue wines, whereas the organic Abbaye Sylva Plana wines fall under the AOP Faugères.

La Table Vigneronne

So much for the wine… as the winegrower also has a restaurant: La Table Vigneronne de l’Abbaye Sylva Plana. In summer, they serve lunch from Monday to Saturday and dinner from Thursday to Saturday. In winter, they only do lunch on weekdays. Entering the former barn revealed an inviting dining room combining the stone walls with a concrete floor and elegant furniture. However, Chéri and I were directed to a table-for-two in a romantic corner of the beautiful shaded exterior. We arrived spontaneously after our hike to Mont Caroux and felt slightly uncomfortable in our sports gear. But the host made us feel at ease, and after a welcoming glass of water, we soon enough ordered a glass of very local wine. And we made our choice between one of the set menus (29.50 or 42 euros for three courses).

Fancy Setting

Hiding our dusty shorts under a white cloth napkin, we blended in more in the fancy restaurant setting. The starters (two-coloured melon with Iberian ham for Chéri and a red mullet ceviche for me) were a delight to the eyes and the mouth. A classic beef tartare (Chéri) and steaklet of duck (me) made us slightly purr with happiness. And the dessert- profiteroles with salted caramel for Chéri and a strawberry pavlova- concluded our lunch in style. A final digestif at the bar offered on the house made us completely forget we looked like hobos. The next time, we will dress up more to match this charming restaurant, as it is definitely one for the books!

Good to Know

La Table Vigneronne de l’Abbaye Sylva Plana is the restaurant of wine estate Domaine Deshenry’s, run by Nicolas and Charline Bouchard. Located in the Faugères wine appellation, Chef Robin Alexander and his team serve seasonal Mediterranean dishes paired with local wines. In summer, the restaurant serves lunch from Monday to Saturday and dinner from Thursday to Saturday. In winter, they only do lunch on weekdays. Next to the dining room is a tasting room and shop where you can buy the estate’s wines and art from local artists.

La Table Vigneronne de l’Abbaye Sylva Plana

Domaine Deshenry’s

13 Ancienne Route Nationale

34480 Laurens

+33 (0)4 67 93 43 55

website

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Every two years during the Easter weekend, Sète hosts the ‘Escale à Sète’, a grand festival celebrating maritime traditions. This festival is the best time to admire the most impressive tall ships from France and various parts of the world as they arrive in Sète. This year’s edition runs from 31 March to 6 April, and over these six days, many sailing stars will come ashore. Among the more than one hundred ships of all sizes are the famous three-masted Belem from France, and a replica of the Nao Victoria, the first ship to circumnavigate the globe. The guest of honour for this year is the Nave Italia.

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Visiting Tips

To make the most of your Escale à Sète experience, my tip is to arrive early in the morning. This way, you can take a leisurely stroll into town, have breakfast and watch Sète wake up. I visited the 2026 edition on a Wednesday, and it was already quite busy. So, you can expect large crowds over the Easter weekend. The organisers anticipate a mere 400,000 visitors in total, which is a lot for a population of 45,000! Second tip: take the train. I did so this year, travelling from Béziers to Sète in less than half an hour. From the station, it’s about a 20-minute walk to the festivities around the Quai d’Alger. If you do choose to drive, don’t even bother going into town to try to find a spot. You won’t. Instead, park in the designated free parking lots by following the signs.

Tall Ships

Another tip if you’re interested in visiting the tall ships: buy your tickets in advance online. But even then, be prepared to queue. This year, a single ticket (12 euros per adult) grants access to eight tall ships. You can also buy it on the day itself, but chances are that tickets will be sold out. Don’t be too disappointed if you cannot get yourself a ticket, though. There is enough entertainment to keep you busy for a day. Or longer. Be surprised by distinguished parades of crew members, kids’ activities, a maritime market, and, of course, delicious food and drink. Sète’s local savoury pastry, the ‘Tielle’, is widely sold. This is your chance to taste this spicy octopus pie if you haven’t tried it before! Or go for a ‘Brasucade de Moules’, mussels cooked over an open fire with a secret sauce.

Colourful Characters

The festivities primarily take place along the so-called ‘Criée’, which is bordered by the Quai de la République, the Quai Commandant Samary, and the Quai d’Alger. This year, ships are also moored at the Quai Aspirant Herber. Here you will find most of the boats, as well as demonstrations of old crafts and trades. While enjoying some fresh oysters, I had the perfect opportunity for people-watching. Many colourful characters strolled along the quays, including traditional Spanish musicians, marching sailors, eighteenth-century soldiers or lascivious ladies of the night. Enlivened by spontaneous outbursts of sea shanty choirs from all around the world, of course. And if you’re lucky, you might even encounter some real pirates who are ever so happy to make their presence known with a loud bang.

Maritime Traditions

Escale à Sète is the perfect event to immerse yourself in international maritime traditions and Mediterranean life. After all, Sète is the first fishing port in the French Mediterranean. To prepare for your visit, you can check the day-to-day program online. You can also get one of the special press editions of the program available throughout the region or download the Escale à Sète app. Everybody will be talking about this event, so it is hard to miss. From the Quai d’Alger to the Saint-Louis pier, it is quite a celebration on the Île Singulière!

Good to Know

Escale à Sète is a biennial event celebrating maritime traditions. The festival lasts for six days and typically occurs around the Easter weekend. The main tall ships are located at the Quai de la République, the Quai d’Alger and the Quai Aspirant Herber and can be visited both during the week and on the weekend. Expect a lot of people, especially on the weekend. It’s best to arrive early and buy your tickets for the tall ships online.

Parking

During the festival, parking in the centre of Sète is virtually impossible, and some roads will be blocked. You can park outside Sète and use the free shuttle service from designated festival car parks, such as ‘Parking Zifmar’. Additionally, there’s a ‘bateaux bus’ (boat bus) service from the Mas Coulet parking lot to the Criée available on the Saturday, Sunday, and Monday of the festival. Keep in mind that it’s best to arrive early, as it is a nightmare to drive around in circles while you try to find a spot between the crowds and badly parked cars.

Office de Tourisme

Grand’rue Mario Roustan

34200 Sète

+33 (0)4 86 84 04 04

website

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With spring in full bloom here in the south of France, I believe it’s the perfect time for a little Substack spring cleaning. After just over a year on this platform, I’m finally starting to find my way around it, so here’s an update on what’s to come.

Free Content

First of all, all my posts featuring tips on what to see and do in this beautiful region will be free for everyone. There’s simply too much great stuff to keep behind a paywall, and I want everyone to be able to enjoy it.

Monthly Newsletter

I’m also launching a monthly newsletter, which will be published on the first of every month. Each edition will include a round-up of the previous month’s posts, along with a glimpse into my life as a property finder, which is my actual job (for those who didn’t know).

The Project

In the meantime, Chéri and I have been working on something exciting for the past two years. We’re talking big plans, including a manor house, outbuildings, and a large plot of constructible land. In the next newsletter, I’ll take you back to the beginning: how we found it, why we fell in love with it, and everything that has happened since. These two years have already involved a lot of dust and sleepless nights, and it’s just the beginning, as the renovations haven’t even started yet. Let’s just say it’s been quite the adventure so far, and I can’t wait to share it all the way to the opening of phase one.

Extra for Paid Subscribers

For my wonderful paying subscribers, there’s something that’s been cooking for quite some time: I would love to write an e-book (or a real book, who knows!) about the Hérault department. I figured that if I share a chapter every month, it will motivate me to actually finish it. The goal is to complete it within a year, and paying subscribers will be able to download it as a free e-book. Not a subscriber yet? No worries, you’ll also be able to purchase it separately.

The first newsletter goes out in May. I’d love to see you there!

It is very much possible that you have seen the outstanding mountain Pic Saint-Loup from afar. From the Promenade du Peyrou in Montpellier for example, at only 20 kilometres away. Even from the Mediterranean coast, you can see the remarkable triangle-shaped peak. The Pic Saint-Loup area comprises 36 villages full of Roman and mediaeval history. Because of the Pic Saint-Loup AOC appellation, you will also find many wonderful wine estates. But before exploring further, I first wanted to climb to the summit for an extraordinary view of the region.

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Rocky Trail

From the Parking Pic Saint-Loup in the village of Cazevieille, you will find a hiking trail all the way up to the summit. The hike is 6 kilometres long, goes up and down via the same path, and takes about 2.5 hours in total. Suitable footwear is highly recommended, as large rocks and gravel pretty much completely cover the trail, which makes the difficulty level moderate. Chéri and I went on a Sunday and were surprised to see so many people on our way. Families, couples, groups of friends, and we even saw people running up and down the mountain- twice! A bit too enthusiastic if you ask me; walking the path was perfectly fine for us. The extraordinary natural surroundings are a joy for your eyes. And the scent of aromatic plants like thyme, rosemary and laurel adds a bonus treat for your nose as well.

Two Faces

The Pic Saint-Loup has two faces, with the southern side being the gentle one, covered with garrigue scrubland and oak forests. The other side is rough with a steep slope, giving the summit its recognisable triangular form. The hiking trail from Cazevieille is signposted with yellow markers, although we also saw white/red markers the whole way up. With a difference in altitude of only 364 metres, the trail is not very steep. You only have to climb quite steeply for the last bit before reaching the summit at 658 metres above sea level. When reaching the top, the amazing view of the Languedoc region rewarded us handsomely. To the south, we saw the Mediterranean Sea, the salines of Aigues-Mortes and La Grande Motte and, to the north, the valley of Fambétou, the cliffs of the Hortus mountain and even the Cévennes. The panorama is breathtaking and really worth the climb!

Love Story

The Pic Saint-Loup got its name from a mediaeval legend, when three valiant knights from Saint-Martin-de-Londres, Loup, Guiral and Clair, were all in love with the same woman. Bertrade, the lady in question, promised to marry the most glorious and devoted man. To prove they were worth Bertrade’s love, the three knights went on a crusade. Unfortunately, Bertrade died while the men were away. Mad with grief, they decided to live their lives as hermits. The village of Saint-Martin-de-Londres is surrounded by three mountains, and each knight picked one. Each year for Christmas, the men lit a fire on top of the mountain to show they were still there. In the end, one by one, all three lights were extinguished. To honour their courage and endless love, the mountains were named after them: Mont Saint-Guiral near Aigoual, Mont Saint-Clair near Sète and, of course, Pic Saint-Loup.

Good to Know

The Pic Saint-Loup is the mythical mountain of Montpellier’s hinterland. You can hike to the 658 metres summit starting from the parking lot just outside the village. The hiking trail is 6 kilometres long, has a difference in altitude of 364 metres, follows the same path up and down, and takes about 2.5 hours in total. Do wear suitable footwear and bring enough water and food, there are no restaurants on the way.

Parking

When driving to Cazevieille, you will see the P signs that direct you to the free parking lot Pic Saint-Loup. Several hikes start from this parking lot.

Office de Tourisme

30 Allée Jean de Lattre de Tassigny

34000 Montpellier

+33 (0)4 67 60 60 60

website

What do you get when two brothers share the same passion for the sea and shellfish? In the case of Lucas and Louis, that led to buying an oyster farm along the Étang de Thau and starting a business together: Le Mas Des Frangins. And now, they produce high-quality oysters, which you can buy on the spot or at several markets in the area (Montpellier, Béziers, and Carnaux). Or taste them- raw or with exceptional frills and fringes- in their restaurant with a view over the lagoon and Sète.

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Le Mourre Blanc

Driving to Le Mas des Frangins is an adventure in itself. I wanted to bring my lifelong friend for a plate of fresh oysters. But when we arrived in the Mourre Blanc Zone, we weren’t exactly sure if it was the right place. Of course, we saw many oyster-producing businesses going on in quite uninspiring hangars. However, nothing looked like an actual restaurant. Until we spotted a blue door with the logo of the two brothers on the façade. Found it! Inside, my friend and I passed the bar (with one of the brothers behind the counter) to get to the wooden terrace. Simply but stylishly set tables covered with jute cloth and lit by string lights invited us to a table in the front row, right on the waterfront.

Brasucade

The menu was equally simple: shrimps, mussels, and oysters served either raw, gratinated, or with a fruity seasoning. Little did we know, so we haphazardly ordered a bit of this and a bit of that. Our feast started with the ‘tartinade du moment’ (4.50 euros), a surprising spread of mussels and chorizo, to go with our locally brewed beer and lemonade. We also shared a brasucade (9 euros), or mussels traditionally prepared over a wood fire. Each oyster producer has their own secret sauce, and the one of Le Mas des Frangins was a savoury one full of flavour (rosemary?).

Next Level

But we came for the oysters, and therefore we also ordered the ‘plateau découverte’ (32 euros). It included six special oysters, six ‘fruités’, and six ceviches. When the platter with goodies arrived, my friend and I couldn’t wait to begin. But which one to choose first? We both started with a simple, raw oyster, the special of Le Mas des Frangins. Onto the next: a fruity one. This is when our taste buds really woke up, as the combination of the oyster with mango and fresh cilantro was surprisingly tasty. The last version, the ceviche, was next level. My friend and I looked at each other in awe while the flavours of oyster, coconut milk and passion fruit pleasantly mixed in our mouths. Waw! We both agreed that this place is more than just an oyster farm; it’s a place where you can feel the passion in every atom.

Good to Know

Le Mas des Frangins is an oyster farm and restaurant in one. The brothers Lucas and Louis produce oysters, ensuring high quality and respect for nature. You can buy them on the spot or at several markets in the area (Montpellier, Béziers, and Carnaux). They also have a restaurant in the same hangar as the farm, which is open for lunch from Tuesdays to Thursdays and lunch and dinner on Fridays and Saturdays.

Parking

When driving to the end of Le Mourre Blanc, you will find a small parking lot.

Le Mas des Frangins

Le Mourre Blanc

34140 Mèze

+33 (0)6 95 84 55 86

website

The South of France also merits a visit in winter if you like snow. Indeed, the Pyrenees mountains are often covered under a white blanket and guarantee some snow fun. Even if it isn't snowing that much (like earlier this year…), a couple of snow canons lend a hand. One of the most popular ski resorts is Les Angles. Here, you will find some fine green, blue, red, and even black runs in beautiful scenery. Les Angles ski resort offers 45 slopes covering 55 kilometres between 1,600 and 2,400 metres of altitude. And chances are high that you'll have a blue sky above you. After all, it is the most southern part of France where the sun is on the agenda about 300 days per year.

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Pyrenees

Every year, I try to take one of the kids on a little ski trip in the Pyrenees. This year, it was Middlest’s turn, and he was very eager to go. What I learned from my trip to nearby Font Romeu with Oldest, is that preparation is key. So, I booked a room at Hotel Le Bel Angle, where I could also book our ski pass. But also tickets for Angléo Balneo & Spa and the Lou Bac Mountain sledging run. I also rented skis for Middlest beforehand, which was cheaper online than on the spot (I used Intersport). When we arrived on Friday, we could already pick up our skis for the next day; you can do so after 16h30 at Intersport. After a delightful dinner at La Table de Bel Angle, a good night’s sleep and a lovely breakfast, Middlest and I were ready for some action.

First Run

I was surprised to see a lot of free parking possibilities near the ski lifts and in the village centre. We were a little late, around 09h00, but there still was enough space near the Baliu chair lift. I got a tip from a friend to try barbecuing on top of the mountain, so we first went to get some meat at the Spar supermarket. There wasn’t much choice, but I wasn’t sure if we would find the barbecue spot, so it was what it was. Finally, we clipped on our skis and went up to our first run. Despite the lack of snow, still 25 lifts were open and snow cannons had helped making a decent layer of snow. Middlest and I had lots of fun exploring the ski resort, starting with some easy greens and blues.

Barbecue

Of course, Middlest suggested trying a red piste and taking the Roc d’Aude chair lift. The signs at the beginning warned us of the difficult slopes ahead and that beginners should stay away. Slightly nervous, I followed Middlest on the ‘Bosses’ piste, but it was absolutely fine and not too complicated at all. On my quest to find the barbecue spot, we headed for the plateau at the end of the Pelerins telecabine (the gondola). After asking around, we followed the signs to the ‘Salle Hors Sac’. The simple wooden restaurant is 150 metres to your left coming from the gondola, right after the restaurant Chalet. And at the far end, we found the barbecue, or more of an open fire really, where the friendly staff grills your meat for free (but a tip is appreciated). Families had brought serious steaks and sausages to complete their homemade picnic. Fantastic!

Sledging and Relaxing

At around 14h00, the snow condition went downhill, and we called it a day. Well, not quite as I had some more surprises in store. I was so glad to have already bought these surprise tickets via Hotel Le Bel Angle, which made it extra easy. So, after returning Middlest’s skis, we went back up by the telecabine for the first surprise: a sledging ride at Lou Bac Mountain. This 2,000 metres toboggan run is attached to a monorail and descends 430 metres. Great fun! And after all this action, Middlest and I spent some time bubbling and relaxing at the second surprise: the Angléo spa. What a blissful way to end our Pyrenees weekend!

Good to Know

Les Angles is a family ski resort in the Southern French Pyrenees mountain range. 45 ski slopes cover 55 kilometres, and snow cannons artificially provide 70% of the snow. There are several restaurants near the pistes, or you can bring your own picnic and have your meat grilled for free at the Salle Hors Sac. The Les Angles website below will give you more information on ski passes, opening hours, extra activities, and more. One not-to-miss activity is the fun Lou Bac Mountain sledging ride. Another great tip is to relax your muscles at the Angléo spa afterwards.

Parking

Parking is mostly free in Les Angles, and you will find large parking lots near the gondola and Baliu chair lift. In the centre- next to the Angléo spa- is a parking garage, also free of charge.

Office de Tourisme

Avenue de Mont-Louis

66210 Les Angles

+33 (0)4 68 04 32 76

website