Glassy Junction, Southall: the definitive history of ‘London’s first Indian pub’
Let’s go for a glassy
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My last post was on gambling addiction, this one is more of an enjoyable ride.
Details and quotes are drawn from a preview copy of Pubs for the People: The fight for the pint and the nation by Sivamohan Valluvan and Amit Singh, with thanks to Amit Singh. It is out in November
Today, an old decaying sign with the words ‘Glassy’ and ‘Junction’ casts a shadow over the newly laid pavement by Southall’s shiny Elizabeth Line station.
A reminder that a different Southall once existed long before security guards employed by the dystopian housing estate, the Green Quarter, would harass the public for sitting on the grass with their lunches. “What is the charge? A succulent samosa?”
The sign is the only remnant of what was once the UK’s greatest desi pub, but a pub, though, that has long been dead. 14 years of hurt. “Nothing beside remains round the decay of that colossal wreck.”
Replaced by an alcohol-free vegetarian restaurant with only the shape of the building hinting at where the bar was. The sacrilegious replacing the sacrilegious. No more Guinness, grills and Glassy jubilation gnawing the Gurdwara.
West London’s Glassy Junction has been mourned, lauded and mythologised by Uncles at bars many times since but actually what went on in the pub and who set it up isn’t that well known. The Uncles all tell one staccato story that ends with a hard stop.
But then I was gifted this opportunity to tell its tale definitively after I met Amit Singh, son of Glassy founder, Amarjit, one winter day in Balham, south London. Amarjit was born in Tanzania in 1955, came to the UK and wanted to build an empire of desi pubs. He may have failed to build a chain that enriched him but this was a spectacular endeavour.
Our story starts in 1950s Dar es Salaam, in a bar called Majestic.
Amarjit’s grandad had arrived in East Africa in the 1900s from Punjab, India, to work on the railways and according to Amarjit’s first bold (and, of course, unverifiable) claim, he was the first Indian to be given a liquor licence by the British.
His grandfather was not only a big boozer but apparently had an opium addiction and squandered his money—according to his family—on women and wine. The rowdy but beloved saloon-style bar could be said to be the world’s first-ever desi pub—if I could be permitted my own bold (and, of course, unverifiable) claim.
Majestic was the forerunner to Glassy Junction in that it was chaotic but loved by its locals, who were a mix of Tanzanians as well as displaced Punjabis, and Gujjus.
The family lived upstairs, and this is where Amarjit got his first taste of pub life with Friday nights—payday—being particularly lively.
“The jukebox would be blaring, lots of dancing and fights,” Amarjit says in Pubs for the People. “We used to watch people being flung out through the saloon doors from upstairs [and] we had to clear the broken furniture and glass on Saturday mornings.”
When Amarjit’s father was sacked from the local saw mill, he ended up taking over the licence when grandfather fell into money troubles. Sadly, he then also lost the licence due to a mixture of politics and jealousy from a nearby landlord—Tanzania was starting to become hostile to South Asians.
“My Dad grew up seeing the pub as somewhere familiar, homely even, despite the occasional ruckus,” Amit says. “His proud sense of his publican family pedigree, combined with a fondness for pints of Guinness and London Pride also meant that he had always nursed a hope to become a ‘third-generation’ publican.”
Amit believes that one of myths surrounding Southall is that Punjabis flocked to this West London enclave because of its proximity to Heathrow. It was, he says, actually because the R Woolf Rubber Factory had a general manager who commandeered a Sikh regiment in the Second World War and believed them to be compliant.
Conditions in the factory were unbearable.
As the Asian workforce increased, the exploitation of migrant workers became increasingly evident and blatant, fuelling demands for basic rights such as tea breaks, pay rises, ban on compulsory overtime and safer working conditions.
Amarjit’s brother was already employed at R Woolf and the two shared a bed in the 1960s, with Amarjit working nights, while his brother was on days. During these months, there were some Southall pubs that served brown drinkers, such as White Swan, now a Gurdwara, and the Featherstone Arms, run by a Fijian-Indian. The Victory pub had a desi landlord in the 1970s, pictured below.
But it’s the Railway Tavern that Amarjit truly loved. And when he left his job at R Woolf to become a dentist he took on the ownership of the surgery next door.
Bill and Brenda were the custodians of the Railway Tavern and they appeared to be a classic mid-century pub partnership with Bill taking on the lease of the pub using his military pension.
But they weren’t prejudiced (like this soldier-like contemporary) and they forged a close bond with the Asian community and especially Amarjit, who began drinking there in 1979.
Most nights, Bill was Mr Hospitality, chatting warmly to his diverse clientele and was more than happy for the Indian Workers’ Association to hold Saturday meetings, where Amarjit’s father would visit from the late 1960s to discuss the conditions at R Woolf.
Life inside the Tavern might have been bliss, but Asian customers would get attacked when leaving and, in 1977, Yog Raj was set upon outside the pub by six men who jumped out of a car and kicked, punched and spat on him before driving off.
But as Amit says: “The very fact that Bill and Brenda welcomed an assortment of black, Asian and white customers, at a time when just down the road the Hambrough Tavern were inviting racist bands to play, is in itself striking.”
Back to Amarjit. He began to become such a Railway Taverner with his dad that he was emboldened to put a bell up on the back of the beer garden (by his next door dentist surgery’s car park) that he would ring whenever he wanted a Guinness—“By the end of the night I used to forget how many times I had pressed the bell.”
This love of the black stuff led to him establishing the Sikh Guinness Club, which organised annual trips to Ireland and in 1983 he even gained a photograph with the then-president Patrick Hillery.
Bill and Amarjit soon became the best of friends, and Amarjit gave the couple free dental care and invited them to family BBQs where they would bring fresh pours of Guinness. In 1986, the couple’s lease came up for renewal and they were told they had to move to a smaller pub as their beer sales were poor. This sounds like a sad moment for Amarjit and for Southall’s Asians but the Railway Tavern was about to turn Glassy.








“Although he was well-versed in drinking, he had absolutely no idea how to actually run a pub,” Amit says.
Luckily, Bill was still on hand. He taught him the ins and outs of the cellar and then convinced the brewery that an Asian man could take over the leasehold when Amarjit completed his innkeeping courses and joined the relevant institutions. On 21 August, 1986 he became the first non-white tenant of a Bass-Charrington pub (bold claim) and the first person licensed to pull pints and teeth (bold claim).
Like this story I wrote here on Wychwood, radical businesses were allowed to thrive by the 1989 Beer Orders which broke up the monopoly the big six breweries were operating. This allowed Amarjit to buy the freehold in 1991, after tolerating a previous contract that demanded high beer sales without permission to implement any of his changes to the pub.
Then came 1994. “My Dad came up with the grand idea to run a pub that reminded him of the year he spent in Punjab as a child before he came to Southall from Tanzania,” he says. Or to quote the man himself: “I’d organise the odd tabla night [South Asian drumming] and people really enjoyed it. Even white and black people seemed to like it.”
These tabla nights gave him them the confidence to lean heavily into turning it into a ‘Punjabi’ pub and the name was a play on Punjabi slang for drink as in “let’s go for a glassy” but the retention of the word ‘Junction’ was the masterstroke and is it showed that it was still at heart a British pub. For all.
Amarjit even retained the Railway’s workers, such as Donna Steward and two other white bar staff, who somehow agreed to wear Punjabi attire on shifts.
Not everyone was happy, though, and one radio phone-in caller complained that “an Indian had taken over and converted an old Victorian pub in Southall and to make matters worse he is also accepting rupees! Whatever will they let happen next?”
The pearl clutching had begun. And then the signs, in English and Gurmukhi, went up alongside huge images of Punjabi folk dancers sent on a boat from India.
Cobra, Kingfisher and Lal Toofan (Glassy) were poured alongside Boddingtons, Holstein and Heineken (Junction). Your pound (or rupee) could buy kebabs from the tandoor from the open-plan kitchen.
(When it came to accepting rupees it was actually a gimmick and the cash was often given away to charities in the Punjab, something which continues today at the near-ish Scotsman.)
Amarjit aimed the pub at everyone, absorbing the already diverse clientele of the previous incarnation of the Railway Tavern, but making multiculturalism even more visible. It wasn’t intended to be an anti-racism space and Amarjit never used the term desi pub but it worked and lived long in the memory for all punters.
“The idea was you land at Heathrow, get picked up, get a pint and kebab without having to change any money.” Saptarshi Ray in Desi Pubs by David Jesudason
The decline of Glassy Junction, Amit believes, started long before it shuttered in 2012, but when it became a very male space. It often had a family-friendly vibe helped by its beer garden until the early 2000s but when the likes of Saptarshi, who worked nearby, visited it was an Uncle-dominated bar.
Sadly, by then Amarjit had become an alcoholic and his plan to create a chain of Glassy Junctions around the country was nothing more than a pipe dream. He outsourced the management and although fights weren’t common, once you get a bad rep it was hard to shake it off. The parents no longer wanted to feed their kids mixed grills. (Sadly, due to his condition details like family members’ names and a few important dates couldn’t be confirmed)
But if you want to see a glimpse of it in its heyday then visit the BFI Archive on London’s Southbank. In it there’s a video from August 1995 when presenters of Big City, Carolyn Marshall and Paul Ross, visited what they called ‘London’s first Indian pub’. In this video you see how multicultural the space was with black, Irish, Asian and white customers enjoying the entertainment—although Carolyn points out that there weren’t many women present.
One customer says ‘it’s just like the Punjab. The friendliest place in the world’. While bar manager, Tarsem Kalyan, explains the concept: “We thought we’d bring the original India to London in a pub. The theme is the village from the Punjab. Many, many years ago when lots of Asians came to this country they would say to their mates: ‘let’s go for a glassy’.
And maybe that chain of Glassy Junctions did happen with many pubs up and down the country being inspired by its village Punjab feel—certainly the Prince of Wales in West Bromwich was. You can also see its name in other desi pubs from Glasgow to Wolverhampton. British tourists in India would always hear locals say: “You’re from London? Glassy Junction!”
Its biggest legacy was to briefly show the world what desis really like best: including everyone in their joy.
Pubs for the people: The fight for the pint and the nation by
Sivamohan Valluvan and Amit Singh is out in November 2026










