Last week, I was in a suite at The London West Hollywood — on camera, while the Oscars red carpet was happening — talking directly to the hair, makeup, and nail artists behind the looks the internet couldn’t stop screenshotting. (Next up: Estheticians, we are looking at you.)

That was the first installment of FULL COVERAGE, culture’s beauty breakdown show created by myself and Dayna Carney. This is Studio Symoné first (!!!) official show, and it’s produced by Dayna’s House. Makeup artist and voice Delina Medhin joined me as co-host, and FULL COVERAGE is ultimately a breakdown of beauty looks at cultural moments.

While there is a full length show, you can watch beauty artist interview clips and live reactions on Reels and YouTube Shorts. It’s so good!

You’ll hear Coree Moreno talk about the vision for Chase Snfiniti’s braids, Dawn Sterling break down her nail look like on Bella Hadid, MUA Brandy Allen talk about her 10+ year relationship with Oscar-winning costume designer Ruth E. Carter, and Beauty writer Kayla Greaves even chimes in to talk about Wumni Mosaku’s beauty breakdown.

… And this is just me being just the right amount of dramatic over Teyana Taylor’s look.

Fashion has its critics. Beauty has its moments. This show is based around these moments, versus weekly episodes of whatever. Everything we cover, must matter.

Here’s what I want to us to be honest about: there is already so much industry-focused beauty content out there, and a lot of it is centered on brands and founders. That lane is covered.

I care about artistry more than ever. I’m obsessed with creativity. I want genuine analysis of the looks I see on screen… presented as relevant, timely news, directly from the beauty artists who are actually on set, in the glam rooms, executing the vision. They are the story.

Every conversation on FULL COVERAGE leads directly back to the beauty artist. The person who made the call on the skin prep. Who decided on the hair texture. Who chose that shade of lip. The ones who move culture quietly, some who have been doing it for decades.

If you’ve been following me on Substack, there was definitely a notable shift in my work. I went from curating around beauty news across all areas of culture and while that did involve industry updates, my interest in cover marketing news has completely dissolved. My love for beauty has not. Over the past few years, figuring out how to navigate that tension has resulted in FULL COVERAGE.

Next up: The Met Gala

If Oscars was the proof of concept, Met is where we go deeper. More artists, more access, more of the conversation we want out in the open.

More soon. And if you watched any of the Oscars coverage and felt like something was off? Like we were getting the look but never the why? This show is for you.

— Darian

Follow FULL COVERAGE on Instagram

Subscribe on YouTube

I recently read Welcome to the Syllabus Age by ’ Dominique Webb. I threw my hands up in the airrrr. Because, honestly yall? It is my time. I’ve been observing how artists who I admire - my greats - layer outside inspiration while maintaining a foundation of pride in their origins. I constantly have to remind myself to apply my own learnings to my own creative hurdles. This is my lesson to learn. It’s one thing to edit or do creative strategy for others, but for yourself? It gets dicey. I know my fellow creatives can relate.

With this layering approach in mind, I continue to build my creative practice. Creating something “new” is not the goal. Creating something that feels unique to me, however, is totally possible. Going from freelancer to creative entrepreneur to interdisciplinary artist. Remembering all the parts that make me, me. Writing… my love for beauty as artistry, a conduit for creativity, a connection to God, and a mode of honoring each other and… years of editorial curation, working in newsrooms, playing the violin from a young age and wanting to pick it back up. DJing disco, funk, soul, jazz… being from Buffalo NY, owning my Long Beach origin… knowing the clothe I am cut from… my entrepreneur restaurant grandmother Blondine Harvin, my Virginia roots. My intuition. Let’s not forget that.

With this in mind, screening A Warm December is a new step, a layer, a new discovery of my own. Yeah, sure, it’s one thing to understand the 70s and Black actors has their own moment, but to digest it in accordance with your life when it hits your soul? That’s different. That’s allowed. Discovery is invigorating.

Going back to the syllabus. A syllabus is something that can be shared, right? As I learn, I share. As I learn, I share. As I learn, I share. Thursday, December 4th I am screening A Warm December directed and staring Sidney Poitier and Ester Anderson in Los Angeles.

RSVP

• I’ve fallen down a rabbit hole of 70s Black cinema. The kind of films where raw talent carries the whole frame. Performers who held their weight without high-tech gloss and without algorithms. Just presence, craft, and a camera. Actors who metaphorically stand tall and eminent their presence not to center themselves, but to be a living manifestation of what life can be, of who we all can be, when we stand, stand, stand.

• A Warm December (1973), directed by and starring Sidney Poitier, although its a small movie that did not, in fact, receive a ton of rave reviews, has become a favorite of mine.

• In this film, Jamaica actress Esther Anderson plays Catherine Oswandu, and she is the anchor of the film. Oswandu, a chic, natural-hair princess from the fictional African nation of Torunda, in London on her country’s behalf amid high-stakes political negotiations. Dr. Matt Younger (Poitier) falls in love with her, but their time is cut short.

• Have your holiday portrait taken on site. Attire is Black chic. Think warm sweaters, turtlenecks, a tailored pant you’ve wanted to wear this holiday season, leather boots. Blacks, reds, browns, deep oranges, greens. Silver and gold jewelry, subtle or exaggerated. Wear that watch you love, but never wear. Relaxed, comfy, elevated. Just don’t over think it. I promise you’re fly. RSVP here.

Trailer for A Warm December (1973). Courtesy of Swank Motion Pictures. Used by permission.

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Studio Symoné-worthy news

Here’s some Studio Symoné-worthy news and happenings we want to add our voices to.

Written by myself and Studio Symoné Project Manager Olivia Jean.

Photographer Sophia Wilson is coming out with her first art book: #GRWM

• I collaborated with Phia early on with Beauty IRL/Studio Symoné to document Paris McKenzie, Brooklyn’s Very Own 16-Year-Old Beauty Supply Store Owner. This books is in perfect alignment with who she is and who she’s consistently setting out to cover: the everyday girl and the it girls making the world turn around. — D

Harmonia Rosales’s New Book Chronicles of Ori: An African Epic

• Afro-Cuban American artist Harmonia Rosales reclaims Black beauty and power across mediums by centering Black women in place of Eurocentric icons. In her statue Unbound at King’s Chapel in Boston, created to commemorate emancipation, she highlights the woman’s beauty as inseparable from her Blackness with a dress that amplifies the richness of her skin. Her latest book Chronicles of Ori does the very same work honoring, elevating and centering the Black body while weaving African myths and Orisha stories to reimagine history, restore beauty, and celebrate Blackness.

Spinderella is the first woman DJ to be inducted into the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame.

• It’s giving #ssgirl, truly! Deidra Roper is the DJ in the trio Salt-N-Peppa, always has been. (Did you know that Wendy Willians auditioned to be the DJ in Salt and Peppa? 💀)

• Sly Stone was inducted into the Hall of Fame, as well. Stevie Wonder, Jennifer Hudson, Maxwell, Questlove, Beck, Leon Thomas, and Flea delivered a powerhouse medley of Sly and the Family Stone’s greatest hits – “Dance to the Music”, “Everyday People”, “Thank you(Falettinme Be Mice Elf Agin)”, and “I Want to Take you Higher”. Stank Faces burst into uncontrollable smiles, heads snapped and swayed so hard sweat flicked into the lights, and the room rose into a grand, joyful tribute to an icon.

• It was headlines, as it should be, that Outkast was also inducted on the same night with an equally uproarious celebration with Doja Cat, Tyler, The Creator, Janelle Monae and more.

2026 Artsy Vanguard Artists

• The Artsy Vanguard has highlighted the most promising artistic talents for 2026. In their eighth year, the collective powerfully affirms Manyaku Mashilo as a visionary painter who weaves ancestral memory and spiritual worlds into luminous, healing canvases. — O

• I (Darian) am a admirer of Danielle Brathwaite-Shirley. Daring. Raw. As someone who loves a “tough conversation” their work revives my senses.

  Speaking of: A must see art exhibition in LA with beauty is showing: Giving You The Best That I Got

• In collaboration with California African American Museum at Art + Practice in Leimert Park. 3401 W. 43rd Place, Los Angeles, CA 90008

• Check it out, thinking of doing a Studio Symoné guided tour. If of interest, lmk in the comments.

Hair by Chrissy.

• What a case studio in both differing and similar hair griefs Black and white women, how capitalism has flattened getting one’s hair done at a salon into a factory-science of how many heads one can get done in a day, hair appointment etiquette, mediocrity unchecked, the dissolving of the hair stylist/client relationship, and how lack of ritual leads to lack of respect for one’s body let alone their hair. This HBC new isn’t new, but is the latest uproar around her practices that is bleeding over into many beauty algorithms. — D

• There are some topics that honestly deserve a verbal conversation. This is one of them. Unfortunately I no longer have a podcast (and yes I am actually pretty disappointed, bitter, and upset that I don’t have the capacity to start a new one.) But I’m sure someone who does, will. Love what this girl has to say, though:

@zoeyytaftmy hair by chrissy experience #hairbychrissy #habitsalon #fyp #honestreview #nursesoftiktok

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READS

Josephine Baker at Home: 21 Photos of the Legendary Showgirl in Her French Châteaux — Katie Schultz

• Josephine Baker was one of the most daring and prolific entertainers of her time and perhaps ever, performing in major cities around the globe. Offstage, she relished in domesticity, transforming her French Chateaux into an inclusive, love-filled, art soaked world of her own making. She boldly owned her home in her full name, even in marriage, shaping it as an extension of her vision, independence, and expansive family of children and animals. — O

Why Is Beauty Getting So Unsettling? - Cierra Black

• Beauty is going ugly. The runway is channeling our collective unease by turning conventions on its head and making imperfection the new moment. — O

I Thought It Was Acne. Turns Out, It Was Lupus. — Amanda Mitchell

• Both personal and well researched beautifully intertwined. Gratitude to Amanda for writing telling own story extensively, honestly, and beautifully. — D

Today, I woke up. I went outside to my balcony. I closed my eyes. I took a whiff of MY polluted Los Angeles, U.S.A. air and exhaled, proudly. Today is a good day to be a Californian. Prop 50, I love you. I turned in my ballot at 7:00pm PT like the rest of the misfits running to the ballot box (tbh by that time we were in the clear, but I would have not forgiven myself if I did not, and my friends would have divorced me… this is not a brag. Please vote).

Across the coast, Zohran Mamdani said: TURN. THE VOLUME. UP. My spirit animal. 💕

I just have to get things out when I can. Life is moving quickly. Some days suck. But everyday, I am grateful to be alive and breathing. Working. Growing. Learning. Being creative. With my friends, chosen family, and family by my side. This era of my life is not exactly what I thought it would be? But I am here, and reading every book I can get my hands on in my spare time. Buy The House of Beauty by Arabelle Sicardi.

So, in the grand scope of things, I’m doing really well. The work (and the work that pays the bills) is hard, but it’s creative and fulfilling. To be able to say this in 2025 is to kiss the ground I walk on because, gratitude.

One slice of it: I started doing creative strategy for Sephora (specifically top of funnel) last spring. I met Dayna, founder of the creative media company Dayna’s House… We were always trying to find ways to work together. When this campaign hit her desk, it felt like a yassss. And just like that, I became a creative strategist through her agency.

We carried out Sephora’s past summer campaign: CUTE AT WORK. It’s so evergreen, I feel good about sharing it with you, in the Fall! This concept… to feature women who, because of the nature of their jobs, have to consider their hair in a certain way, came to me from a knowing. From what I believe people genuinely want to see. Ideas start as seeds, and then everyone contributes their brilliance. I LOVED how this turned out. Full playlist of videos here.

I used to view agency work as succumbing to the other side of the game, but that’s been the furthest thing from the truth for me. It’s far more nuanced than that. I do research. I brainstorm. I articulate. I present campaign ideas in client meetings. I’m far more than a copy editor though I am that, too. I’m building on top of skills I’ve been honing for years.

It’s pained me (and yes, the drama is real) to come to terms with the fact that I can’t do everything at once. I’ve had to focus my strengths in this world so I can build experience in other areas that will support who I want to become next: a creative director, and a director of beauty-forward music videos and live events. I have already executed on my first project as creative director for Los Angeles Times IMAGE: Three L.A. creatives show you how — and where — to wear La Beauté, Louis Vuitton’s new makeup line.

I can’t get stuck in my head. This new era of me has to be the training ground for my next venture. I have to focus on getting there, which means making excruciating decisions — like putting a hard stop to publishing my newsletter. Because doing both does not create balance or happiness.

A few weeks ago, someone said to me, “Wow, this is your first creative strategy gig and you’re working for a big brand.” I didn’t clock that. Because the work is the work and it has to get done! You need a HARD SKILL. TENACITY. CRITICAL THINKING. SAVVINESS. COURAGE. ChatGPT would never, could never. The fact is: you have to prove your ideas are viable, more than a vibe, because money is, in fact, on the table. Let me remind you: a lot of the girls you admire are working. We don’t get enough credit for that, but I will take mine every time.

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Subscriber Check-In: I’d like to start doing some zodiac-structured birthday shout outs! Put your birth date and month in the comments so we can wish you a happy birthday!

Subscribe now

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Below is a list of the news-y topics I’m into, and only the topics I’m into. On the spectrum or chaotic or curated, we’re leaning chaotic. It is not the MOST timely, but again, I am hanging off the Titanic bow, doing what I can — and this is still beauty as I see it. Through the lens of women and femmes, the body (not only able bodies), beauty artists, caretakers, image makers, athletes, art exhibitions*, films. This is my brain, I won’t apologize for it!

*There are some art exhibitions I want to shout out, but will have to wait until the next issue or else I’d be writing this newsletter foreva.

Some of it is old, some of it is “new,” most of it is Very Black, all of it is relevant.

One thing I can tell you about me: You can glean what I care about by what I talk about and what I do not talk about. You’ve probably already figured this out but… I can no longer be a source for beauty market news that centers people who are not authentic creative driving forces keeping the industry alive. There are so many girls now doing this on Substack, I can move on. (Why is it that every time I hear, say, or type the word Substack, I picture myself lookin’ like Urckle saying it? Being here is so nerdy and embarrassing!)

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NEWSLETTER SOUNDTRACK #pressplay

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Written by Darian + Studio Symoné Project Manager Olivia Jean

EMDASHES ARE USED IN THIS NEWSLETTER. CHATGPT WAS NOT.

• Actress Zazie Beetz presents the InStyle Imagemaker Award to world renowned hair artist Lacy Redway. Lacy speaks on being an image maker from a young age, even before she realized it. She also touches on how Black hair (and makeup!) artists are often pigeon-holed. Here is the truth: When you’re a hair stylist who is adept at styling textured hair, you can style all types of hair with devotion and precision. There is something about understanding the feeling of an incredibly versatile yet delicate texture that is prone to breakage and requires a different level of care… that just hits different!!

  • To my point; BREAKING: White Girl Gets a Dominican Blowout, Is Stunned. The hashtags of this video are #fyp #blowout #blackgirlhair #hair, so let’s not act like she did not want the right people to find this! 2.3M likes and a bunch of Black girls clarifying it’s a Dominican Blowout without being offended, rude and/or condescending. Interesting, as media would love to paint us as pissed all the time, at every single thing, if we let them. I have a little trend forecast-y observation that is presented neatly to me on a platter within this video, but I am going to keep it close to my chest for a little bit longer.

• Pat McGrath? Glamour Woman of the Year. In celebrating Pat McGrath as Glamour Woman of the Year, we see how she calls her global beauty-army “kids,” runs her team like the mother of a drag house – and this is clear in how she described how she runs and shapes the dynamic of her team. She draws inspiration from the secret-club London nightlife of her youth, and even recruits from Instagram and TikTok. Proof that when you lead with mother love and runway flair, the whole world becomes your house. – O

@latimesHow committed to the bit are you? @rebecca stopped by a free special advanced screening of Yorgos Lanthimos’ new film, “Bugonia.” Attendees had to be bald, “or willing to become bald” with the help of an on-site barber.

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• Yorgos Lathimos’ Bugonia starring Emma Stone follows two conspiracy obsessed men who kidnap a Silicon Valley-vibe woman CEO they believe is an alien. In October, Bugonia hosted a screening for bald people, and bald people only, in Los Angeles. And if you weren’t bald but wanted to attend, there was barber on site to give you a buzz cut. LA Times attended the screening and I found people’s reasons for going bald on the spot sooooo fascinating. As someone with very short hair, the thoughts of people already bald, or with a close buzz cut, deeply resonated with me. I wish I would have known about this screening!

• WNBA player Rickea Jackson is the cover star of Heads within Complex Magazine’s Issue 003, with an appearance from Savannah and Zhuri James. It’s edited by theeee Nikki Nelms who is the most prominent figure in fashion keeping 90s styles alive and inextricably attached to Black women. Complex is currently helmed by Very Smart Woman Aria Hughes. Thus, the revived print issues are SO good. Spiral bound?! Say less.

• WNBA Fans Wanted Merchandise That Looked Cool. Her Company Delivered. — Ximena N. Beltran Quan Kiu. When WNBA fans said they wanted merch that didn’t look like an afterthought, designer Esther Wallace’s brand Playa Society stepped in with bold, stylish gear and turned athletic support into a fashion movement. Love to see this after Kristin Juszczyk got far too much visibility and cash for doing what SOUTH POLE did with jerseys when I was in middle school?! 😩

• Old suit: WSJ’s Amy Dockser Marcus uses The MIT AgeLab age simulation suit in hopes of learning how to age better.

• After her 25 year run with the American Ballet Theatre, Misty Copeland hangs up her pointe shoes. TBT to this 2014 Self article you could hear discussed during her ballerina days, O says. Despite being a face of ballet perfection, Misty Copeland reveals how the pressure to ‘lengthen’ and fit a narrow ideal nearly derailed her—until she redefined strength, curves, and grace on her own terms.

• Is American Culture Newly Fascinated With the Black Bourgeoisie? – Rob Franklin. I love how Rob Franklin led us through each reference with care in order to build a cautionary yet hopeful tale to reflect on. To answer the headline directly: No. While white people show face by greenlighting exhibitions such as Superfine: Tailoring Black Style and campaigns like Polo x Martha’s Vineyard, these projects are the thinnest layer of what’s actually happening. Behind each of these projects are Black people who not only care about Black people, but have the chops (extensive education and lived experience) to do these projects justice.

We should not look to the upper class of any race as those setting the cultural climate. They have to pay to be part of the cool kids’ table through buying art and giving donations because they do not have cultural currency. On the other hand, artists rarely have the financial currency of the collectors who buy their art… so it’s a flow.

Instead, these projects should push us to want to know more about the people, places, and research that brought them to life. Projects of this nature often treat the thing as the main thing — when really, they’re just how it’s matriculated in pop culture. It’s a piece of the story, but it is not the story.

The real story is that even while we’re living under a fascist regime, Black art continues to thrive nationally, and in hyperlocal ways. We turn to the creative process again, and again, and again.

These projects should urge us to dig deeper: to buy the book, to go to the exhibition. Even if you’ll never purchase an MVY sweatshirt or attend the Met. Solange does this well. She brings you into what fascinates her, what influences her. And I think, in my opinion, what would make her happiest is if we took our interest in her interests as a launching point for our own research — and, in turn, developed our own practice. – D

I have not written for my Substack in months. The only thing that could motivate me to log back into this site is to tell you about one of the top nonfiction books (I’m sure of it) to be published this year: The House of Beauty by Arabelle Sicardi.

I’m hoping (praying, really) that sharing some news about my friend (and our talk) can break the fear I have and lead me to a new writing practice. And I feel okay saying this, because I think they wants that for me too.

But enough about me.

Writers, editors, publicists, marketers across beauty, fashion, consumer goods, tech, and capitalists: if you are who you say you are, you’ll pick up The House of Beauty.

This Friday, October 17th at Sky Light Books in Los Angeles, please join me as I will be in conversation with Arabelle. Free. No RSVP required.

If you’re not is town, they are having book talks, some combined with fragrance swaps, across the county.

With their signature blend of intellectual rigor and poetic sensibility, Arabelle explores how beauty myths are crafted, sold, and weaponized, from corporate boardrooms to your local nail salon. Follow alongside Arabelle as they trace the global trail of the shimmering mica in your beauty products, choose-your-own-adventure-style, or journey into the past to unearth the sinister connection between fragrance and fascism. Bear witness as they visit a tech convention focused on the next horrifying frontier of body modification, or as they ask what’s at stake in the braids we weave in our hair. Sharp yet tender in their observations, Arabelle challenges readers to reconsider beauty as more than a product of consumption, inviting a vision of beauty rooted in community and self-care, one that transcends industry-driven ideals.

I’ve read The House of Beauty. I am actually printed in the acknowledgments, so I am officially a celebrity. And what I can tell you about The House of Beauty is that you think you know all about the beauty industry. And maybe you do. Maybe you know a sliver or a part of it, due to your robust experience. But, respectfully (I mean it, I’m not being a smarty), I’d encourage you to turn your ego down. All the way down. The House of Beauty is not regurgitated information mixed into new words. Over 10 years, Arabelle has put their own money behind research and fact checking so new information can be deemed fact.

This is more than friends supporting friends. This is about what it really takes, and what one must sacrifice, to crush the status quo as an artist. This is making sure that people — those inside and outside the industry and anyone curious — know The House of Beauty exists because they deserve to know how this industry impacts their very thoughts. It is our duty to uplift those whose work has made us smarter and stronger and softer all at the same time. And maybe, most of all, it is self and community preservation.

Peace,

Darian

At the launch, I also released the first Studio Symoné newpaper, Issue I. With that, I’m excited to share that the first issue of the Studio Symoné newspaper is officially available for purchase online.

What you’ll read:

• Arabelle Sicardi tells us where to get our nails done, depending on what you want.

• I write about how LA’s beauty community has shown up for those rebuilding their lives.

• Makayla Did breaks down what it really means to be a #SSGirl

• Plus, my full residency schedule is inside.

A collector’s item, tbh. This newspaper was designed by Nick Mantle — my college bestier and fellow Sag. I would love to frame this as "support studio symoné", but I created this newspaper with the hope that holding it in your hands feels like an offering. Something you’ll find value in, something worth keeping.

Price includes careful shipping and handling. I’m also taking pre-orders for book Black Icons in Herstory 50 Legendary Women. With Women’s Month coming it, I think it’s the perfect book to read in classrooms. And it’s perfect gift all year round. Let’s make sure kids are educated on the true history of this country, as it becoming less accessible.

shop

Other random thoughts:

I’m DJing this Friday 7-10pm at a game night if you’re looking for something fun to do.

Who has a better angle of A$Ap Rocky hugging/tackling Rih after he was aquitted?

Hmmmm…. I think that’s it.

A REMINDER OF MY RESIDENCY SCHEDULE WITH SIP & SONDER:

STUDIO HOURS

Weekly work session where folks can come to work, study, dream, conspire, read magazines, and contribute to the second edition of the Studio Symoné newspaper zine, which will focus on telling stories in the Los Angeles beauty communities.

FRIDAYS 10AM - 2PM | every Friday starting 1/24

IN THE LAB/sundown DJ SETS

As part of my residency, I’ll be DJing every other Friday during the later hours. Because of Sip & Sonder’s partnership with The Music Center's Walt Disney Concert Hall, these sets will also play right outside of their location near the hall.

FRIDAYS 3PM - 5PM | every other Friday starting 1/24

BEAUTY ROUNDTABLE

There’s a gap between media and academia. Writers don’t always have access to the journals, studies, and articles academics produce, and academics aren’t usually on the ground, gathering real-time data on beauty and culture like reporters do. This roundtable is about helping bridge that gap—creating a space for scholars, students, culture workers, and writers to come together and have meaningful conversations about beauty.

TBD | in the works

Follow @studio.symone for updates on beauty product donation needs, beauty business owners offering space to other beauty caretakers, and stylists — all while creating programming to serve those who have been impacted by these fires.

Hey so before I explain why it’s finally time to stop lying to myself, I’m excited to share that Studio Symoné has a residency at Sip & Sonder, a Black-owned café and roaster in Inglewood with locations in DTLA and Downtown Disney.

Here, I will bring the Studio Symoné world alive, while challenging myself to fully pursue my creativity in ways I’ve dreamed of for so long.

In addition, I have collaborated with Sip & Sonder to create a limited-time drink: The Symoné Sip. RSVP to attend the launch and be one of the first to try this amazing, tea-based beverage. The intuitive Sarissa Thrower will be in attendance, offering readings for those who are into that! And, you can purchase the first edition of the Studio Symoné newspaper.

I am excited to be out in the real world. Here’s the programming. I hope you join me at Sip & Sonder!

STUDIO HOURS

Weekly work session where folks can come to work, study, dream, conspire, read magazines, and contribute to the second edition of the Studio Symoné newspaper zine, which will focus on telling stories in the Los Angeles beauty communities.

FRIDAYS 10AM - 2PM | every Friday starting 1/24

IN THE LAB/sundown DJ SETS

As part of my residency, I’ll be DJing every other Friday during the later hours. Because of Sip & Sonder’s partnership with The Music Center's Walt Disney Concert Hall, these sets will also play right outside of their location near the hall.

FRIDAYS 3PM - 5PM | every other Friday starting 1/24

BEAUTY ROUNDTABLE

There’s a gap between media and academia. Writers don’t always have access to the journals, studies, and articles academics produce, and academics aren’t usually on the ground, gathering real-time data on beauty and culture like reporters do. This roundtable is about helping bridge that gap—creating a space for scholars, students, culture workers, and writers to come together and have meaningful conversations about beauty.

TBD | in the works

As you can see, I’m doing everything but writing this newsletter. Let’s talk about why.

The past two years, I’ve been working to detach myself from the identity of solely being a beauty reporter, and a writer and a journalist, period.

Allow me tell you a story.

In 2017, when I moved to LA after working at BuzzFeed News, Yahoo, NBC and CBS in NYC, I once reached out to a woman in media who I respected to ask if she’d take a phone call with me. She was doing work in the news curation space, which was something I’d also been doing at another company before deciding to move to LA and start fresh. I was 27 years old, maybe younger. On the call, she said to me, “You know, a lot of people like you but they don’t know what you do.”

At the time, I was a news curation editor at BuzzFeed News, and I had my own podcast, Am I Allowed to Like Anything? People definitely knew what I did, but her words stayed etched in my brain. I took her idea of me as the truth. And because I believed her, I internalized the idea that what I did meant nothing, was nothing, unless I chose a lane. *I could start crying right here, because what a cruel thing to think of one’s self.*

So when I wrote an article for Into The Gloss that sparked my interest in covering beauty, I thought I’d found my answer. I realized I could cover beauty, news, and culture in a way that felt fresh and meaningful. I thought I’d finally found my space. I was relieved. I believed I’d never have to “switch lanes” again, and I’d always have a solid, clear answer to the question, “What do you do?”

“Hi, my name is Darian, and I cover beauty at the intersection of politics and pop culture.”

Great. No questions, no confusion. And the perk? I wouldn’t have to spend time over-explaining myself, because people are going to make assumptions anyway. I told myself I could sit in this lane, thrive in it, find security, and be happy. This was it. Done and done. I could finally take a deep breath.

Looking back, I can tell you that this black media executive’s words planted a fixation on “finding a lane” that impacted how I saw myself and my work for far too long. But that mindset? That’s on me. It’s my responsibility to listen to what people have to say, reflect on it, and decide whether to integrate it or throw it away.

That’s a tough lesson.

Now, I can more confidently say what I think/know, a lot of people have already known about me and have been waiting for me to admit to myself: the concept of a “lane” should not exist in my vocabulary. I am a true multi-hyphenate.

Therefore, a platform only works for me until it doesn’t. Which is why platform-based subscription models don’t set me up for success. Any platform truly committed to creators would build a tool that lets us receive support wherever we choose to show up. But this idea is almost too logical that it’s silly, right? It would mean prioritizing the well-being of creatives over profit. It would stop making creators out of artists. And most people in tech aren’t interested in building tools that spark true freedom. But this kind of autonomy matters in an economy where creators have no control over certain factors, supremely algorithms that shape, define, and impact their livelihoods. So if you ever find yourself believing that tech companies care about creators—yes, there are people working there who do—shake yourself and remember: they do not.

I do my best work when I’m molding and melding my skills to create, serve, and share something new – often times for more than one project at once. I become laser-focused. As I’ve let myself ease back into this mindset – which I banished because I thought doing the most was frowned upon – I’ve been thriving.

I will continue to evolve.

I will not trick myself into believing that I am lazy or that my work lacks value just because I’m not consistently publishing on Substack.

The truth is I’ve shifted where and how I work, create, and make money.

I must create a new system for myself.

No one will do this for me, but one day, I will happily share what I’ve learned.

If you are a Substack subscriber who expected a monthly or weekly beauty news update and would like a refund, just holler. I’m sorry for the back and forth—this is not my proudest moment. I can’t guarantee when or how often I will publish here, but one thing I will say: because of shattering shifts in the media landscape, it was beginning to feel like a reach to curate beauty news, and even eye have been turned off – which I took as a sign.

If you’re interested in supporting Studio Symoné no matter where we should up, you can look into a one time or monthly gift of your choice through the independent platform I hacked together. I would urge you to think of your offering as less of a “gift” or “donation,” but an investment into something you’d like to see grow.

Support goes to:

• The printing of our first newspaper covering beauty in Los Angeles - first issue drops at the drink launch!

• The production of Studio Supply

• Product development

• The ongoing growth of the Studio Symoné ethos, both as a beauty storytelling platform and an IRL experience

If you’ve been a comped subscriber for a while (there are too many of you that I’m embarrassed to say how many but know that I have an undying love for you all), this may be an opportunity to consider going paid!

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There are a million things I want to talk about right now. I really need to start another podcast, this isn’t working for me. And yet – I don’t have all the right words, and in not forcing myself to conjure them up, it’s made me realize I don’t have very much business sending out an ode to Nikki or Lorraine. I need to go read some Nikki Giovanni. I need to take in more of Lorraine O’Grady’s work. I need to listen to more Doechii. Lately, I’ve been doing a lot more reading than speaking, and I need to be honest with myself about that. You have to know when you’re in that season. I’m in that season. Fine!

A quote from Natalie James, on her episode of the 2018 episode of my podcast, ‘am i allowed to like anything?’

(Although—I did write this piece recently on John David Washington and the new film adaption of The Piano on Netflix.).

So until the script flips, I’m here. Hi! Because in so many ways, I’m starting over in certain areas of my life. Not all. It’s not something I can elaborate on as I’m in the thick of it, but my mantra since Fall has been “I’m moving forward.”

Obviously, there are a lot of gift guides publishing right now. It’s nauseating. I’m not sure how many people are actually buying gifts for their loved ones this season. It’s been a tough year. Many are suffering in silence out of shame, while some people have had better years and are looking forward to a fresh 2025 start. At least, that’s the vibe in the honest one-on-one conversations I’m having with my friends. Thank god for friends.

Yes, we’re going into this year knowing we’ll have to fight like hell. And yet, I still believe we all deserve a little gift—just as much as there are people in our lives we’d gift if we could because they too deserve a little gift. But I also think about the “fill your cup before you fill others.” I don’t want to correlate mental health with gift giving, but I do think we should be able to gift ourselves so that we know what it feels like to appreciate a cherished object – and can pass on the same intention to others.

Here are my suggestions for a small gift to give yourself this season. This is more my yearly “self care” gift guide than a traditional gift guide (here is 2021 and 2022.) Over the past few years, I’ve worked on being comfortable no matter where I go so I can feel relaxed and fully myself the moment I walk into a room, instead of being swayed by others or the environment around me. How can I stand firm in who I am and remember what I bring to the table?! What tools help me feel confident wherever I am?

On this list, you’ll find some of those tools, mixed with other items that are worth refreshing. For example, when was the last time you bought yourself new towels? Exactly.

There are affiliate links in this post.

Lip Lube Love + Hand Solo, If I Say Yes by Y Cosmetics

I love dual-function items. This Lip Lube Love from the new brand If I Say Yes is safe for ALL lips. It has vegan, unscented squalane and meadowfoam seed base. Hand Solo is a self-pleasure skin serum with an extra slip formula. It’s 100% biodegradable and free of silicone and toxins.

Available online as a duo or separately; $29-$55

CODE: 10% off with STUDIOSYMONE, valid through 12/31

Fruit Hand Painted Cup and Saucer by Behnaia, Khanoom Collection

I saw this tea cup and saucer at Behnaia in Culver City and was drawn in by the vibrant detail. Buy one for a new daily ritual. Buy two for tea time with homies. Khanoom is a well-known pottery studio in ​​​​Jaipur, India. Their ceramics stand out for their lush botanical motifs—think hand-painted fruits, flowers, and plants. Dishwasher and microwave safe (although I’d probably hand wash but that’s just me.)

$80, buy online or in-store at Behnaia; 8850 Washington Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232

Room Mist Discovery Set by Sage + Salt

These are four energy-altering room mists in one set; Abundance Mist, Smokeless Smudge, Intuition Spray, and Mercury Retrograde Mist. I simply think this is something nice to experiment with based on your mood in any moment. Why not? And they’re in travel size. I like to bring mists and oils with me that help to make my environment feel familiar! I think the price is steep, but you’re paying for craftsmanship and I imagine they can last you a while based on use.

$200, available online or in-store at Behnaia; 8850 Washington Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232

Vintage Tea Candle Holders on Etsy

I’m not going to sit here and suggest a $60+ candle to you. Brands love to sell ‘em, and I love to receive them. For free. Therefore, who am I to suggest a $150 candle I didn't buy and never would? Instead, I wanted to suggest some unique tea candle holders. Better to spend money on your holder than on the candle itself. They look beautiful scattered throughout the home. I like to buy beeswax tea candles from Beeswax Candles by Alysia Mazzella (when they aren’t sold out).

MadeInScandinaviaNet Royal Copenhagen Tealight Holder, $44. 14 | makuceramic Handmade Black Tea Candle holder: $278

Gua Sha Kit by SACHEU

This week, my friend Rembert read to me the things he likes more than smoking to stave off the desire to light a joint. I decided to make my own list, and one act is body scraping and massaging not only the face but the entire body. It’s self-soothing. My friend Devi Brown is the one who brought this practice to my attention and I’ve slowly integrated the practice into my self-care plan. I watch @beautyshamans (Shelly Marshall) to learn new techniques.

SACHEU guashas are stainless steel. They are non-porous, and more hygienic and self-cooling than jade and rose quartz guashas.

$42, buy online or find a local stockist

Pair with: Klur’s Body Oil, Elements of Comfort, $70

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24K Gold Ear Seeds Refills by NAOWellness

I was introduced to ear seeds through acupuncturists; they're often used to prolong the benefits of acupuncture by stimulating specific points on the ear to promote healing and balance. Traditionally they are made of vaccaria seed. These 24K gold-plated ear seeds are designed for acupressure therapy, aiding in stress reduction, anxiety relief, and overall wellness. The refill pack is similar to WTHN’s ear seeds, which does not sell refills 😒 and each kit costs $45/each. You could also buy earseeds cheaply from professional acupuncture supplies and accessories websites such as AcuHouse.

$18, buy online or buy a kit, $32

Paper Lights

Going to keep it real off top: I don’t have original Isamu Noguchi Atari Light Scultpure funds right now. (Although his are sculptures that have been remade into everyday home decor.) Yes, you could replace your light bulbs with something warmer, but why does that feel more daunting than just buying a lamp? There’s been so much conversation around paper lamps over the past year. And for good reason. (Or maybe I’m just catching on.) A paper lanterns, or a chochin lanters, are beautiful and have a long history; Noguchi took it to the next level. I’m keeping it short but I love the history behind them and I love having them in my home.

If you’re still living under fluorescent lighting, I’m here to remind you that don’t have to live this way. Lighting affects my mood, and I’ve realized how much of a difference it makes to have light that’s easy on the eyes. It took me a while to figure this out. This is the year I leveled up.

In stores; Los Angeles; Bukandu Japanese Light Shop, 340 1st Street, 90012. Find a shop in your city.

Silk Pillow Sleeve by Silked

Now, this is a travel silk pillow. This open-ended pillow sleeve, made from silk charmeuse, fits over most standard, queen, and king pillows. It's designed to prevent bedhead, hair breakage, and skin creases while traveling and I love mine.

$69.50, buy online

3-Pack Women's Crew Socks by Pacas
Photo credit: Pacas

Paca socks are made from alpaca wool, making them incredibly soft and thick. The kind of socks you want to wear to bed or toss in your carry-on for every trip. They also offer a compression sock option, which is a game-changer for long flights. And loving compression socks makes me smart, not old. While the prints don’t really do it for me, the solid colors are a safe bet.

$52, buy online

☝🏾Pair with a game changer☝🏾 Prequel Skin; Foot Rescue Advanced Restorative Treatment, $18

Women's Rosa Silk-Lined Leather Gloves by Overland

I’ve been obsessed with the perfect pair of leather gloves lately. These are on my wishlist. At first glance, these gloves might not scream chic—the product styling is basic. But paired with the right coat, they become a standout accessory. The brown cuff adds a subtle color-block effect that looks especially striking with a well-chosen outer layer. Plus, silk-lined.

$149, buy online [price is a little steep, but I imagine these are gloves you’d have forever.]

Connect White Socks by dertbag

Now this one’s for my niche sock lovers. Clearly I love socks. Why are there two different types of sock on this list? I think warm feet are as essential as breathing. My dad came with me to the NYC launch of Renell Medrano’s ICE Magazine, which I wrote for (download the magazine). There, he met a scrawny white kid named Philip Post. Post has a brand called dertybag, which is to mean: DIVINE ENERGY RADIATES THROUGH BEAUTY AND GENIUS. I need no further details. Sign up me. I kept those socks. They are thick, soft, and serve as a sort of blessing, affirmation, and reminder of my beautiful existence. Designed in Connecticut, made in California.

$20, buy online

Classic Turkish Cotton Robe by Parachute

Photo credit: Parachute

This robe is plush-luxe. I just made that term up, and it’s so good. Parachute has been that brand the past few years and this robe lives up to the hype. It has two front pockets! Idk I just think everyone should have a robe they can slip on at home when clothes feel like a lot. (I don’t even really like wearing clothes but that’s another story for another day)

$149, buy online

Spa Plush Towel by Target

Again. Plush-luxe is what we go for. These towels are softer than the softest. Or, just buy yourselves some new towels!

$14, buy online

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• Charlie xcx speak immediately1

• We’re approach Aquaphor szn. Stock up.

• Long braids in the bathroom #hack

• The tip is that there is no tip

• My FAVORITE core

• I thought we were talking about hair…

• Never a girl from Utah 🙏🏾

You can also find more beauty memes a la Studio Symoné’s highlights on Instagram, #SStv 📺

Not so fun, but sharing some thoughts I posted in regards to this New York Times headline. Although it’s always important to go beyond the headlines, and although we know the NYT is always baiting us, I do not like when people speak for me. It’s always important to make your stance known when you feel compelled to do so. I don’t want to flatten conversations around black women, our political dispositions — which vary — and rest. As my friend Dr. Rikki Byrd reminded me, not all of us have the same privileges or easy access to rest. I’m still learning nuance. Open to other thoughts or feelings from black women on this matter. They don’t have to be mine.

This headline is crazyyyy harmful. Since it generalizes, I need to say it does not represent me. I am not disillusioned. I was already resting and doing a lot more like… enjoying my life with people who don't see me as a specimen to be picked a part. I haaaaate this narrative so much it's almost too easy. It's almost too lazy. when I'm thinking about black women, I am not only thinking about black women who live in the United State in regards to the pursuit of rest, justices, happiness, all of it. I just think our world is so much bigger than to keep responding and switching up my moves in relation to how white ppl move. I am WAY PAST white people dictating who I am, my choices, my feelings, or what I represent. Are we in elementary school on the PLAYGROUND?! We are not

Check out Studio Supply, the only show going straight to the source, asking folks what’s in their beauty supply bag. Hosted by me.

Here’s a preview of this week’s beauty news. Subscribe for the entire thing!

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• At 97, George E. Johnson, founder of Johnson Products Company, is set to release his memoir, "Afro Sheen: How I Revolutionized an Industry with the Golden Rule, from Soul Train to Wall Street," on February 4, 2025. Johnson established the first Black-owned company listed on the American Stock Exchange and sponsored the iconic 70s show "Soul Train.” I found out about this news via The Black Beauty Archive! 

• A few week ago I talked about girls robbing banks (and beauty retailers) as a makeup trend but also a reflection of real life.  In related news, California voters passed Prop 36, a measure reclassifying repeat shoplifting as a felony and increasing penalties for certain drug offenses, including fentanyl. The initiative also gives judges the power to mandate treatment for individuals with multiple drug offenses.

• L'Oréal's new three-year partnership with the Louvre explores beauty's evolution through 108 artworks. Obviously, given the track record of both entities, announcement messaging puts big emphasis on diversity and inclusion. 

Read more

STUDIO SUPPLY is a man on the street style series hosted by beauty reporter Darian, who talks to people — mostly Black women — right outside of beauty supplies about what’s in their bag, and gets their take on how beauty standards, trends, and news in pop culture affect their personal lives.

This is the only show going straight to the source to ask folk what’s in their beauty supply bag. I’ve been developing this show (scouting, team, etc) for about two years. I decided to start this series because I am sick of hiding behind my computer. I need to be out in the real world, talking to the regular girl, the everyday girl so that she too understands how she’s shaping beauty culture(s). I started filming in Ohio, and I also have videos coming out of NYC and LA (just moved back!).

I think my work can at times take on a serious approach, and I want to show a funnier, sillier, not so serious side of myself. It’s on the ground research, it’s original, and it’s 100% me. Would you expect anything less? Follow on Instagram or TikTok.

Watch Studio Supply

Some top-line thoughts post election on being a woman, a Black woman, writer, author, daughter, sister, and a human with a lot of breath still in her:

The past two years living in Columbus, OH and outside of the city of Los Angeles have prepared me for such a time as this. I have more resilience than I ever had. I’ve developed eating habits that make me happy. I work out not to be “skinny” but to feel strong. I have a deeper understanding of what brings me joy in my beauty rituals (not routines) and how they fit into my broader self-care plans. I was finally prescribed a mood stabilizer instead of the antidepressants that only deepened my sadness. My time management skills are off the charts. Basically, I’m locked in, as the kids say today. Most of all, I learned to depend on others; whether for financial help, therapeutic and somatic services, storage space, or a place to lay my head when I traveled to LA or NYC. Truly, it’s this that has built my resilience: learning to ask for help and gaining a whole new set of ideas about what becomes possible when I do. While each phase of my life prepares me for the next, these past two years were tough but necessary. I sped up lessons and healing I would’ve eventually reached. New knowledge > awareness > integration. My hope is that I can continue to put myself in a position to support others in the same ways they’ve shown up for me in such uncertain times in my life. 

This June Jordan quote shared by Black Women Radical:

“I realized that regardless of the tragedy, regardless of the grief, regardless of the monstrous challenge, some of Us Have Not Died. Some if us did NOT die… And what shall we do, we who did not die?” — June Jordan’s keynote lecture at Barnard College on November 9th 2001 to honor the 30th anniversary conference on the Barnard Center for Research of Women

I come from a very rebellious lineage. I know this about myself. I think my ancestors want me to rebel (and yes, I mean my ancestors). They don’t seem hyper fixated on my vote (and yes I did  vote, so save it). My ancestors are definitely not wagging their fingers at me the same way, say, your ancestors may. I’m not sure. And this word rebellion. This all seems aligned with America’s founding ideals—partially founded in rebellion—but trust me, I am not talking about Christian values. My ancestry did not begin in America, and that’s important for me to remember. It’s not just Black American culture for me. I’m way more drawn to exploring the Black diaspora and my place within it. It’s giving my world is wide and vast, and I have a lot to explore. I see myself as part of a broader global community with all kinds of people. Maybe that sounds corny to you, but I’ve lived it, felt it, tasted it. I’m at my best experiencing new things with new and old friends, and I’m not going back. Mentally, this keeps me afloat.

I take everything that happened this past week as information. If this election taught me anything, it’s how naive I’ve been to think people vote with consideration of others. People are prioritizing their pocketbooks—DUH. It’s something you know but don’t remember until it’s in your face again. That poll (you know the one I’m talking about, don’t make me link it) was a reminder to my senses.

I will be okay. That is both a hope and a declaration. Maybe I’m delusional (I’m not). Maybe I have no real grasp on the reality we’re living in (I do.) Still, I have made a choice: I’m going to keep moving forward with my life. In feeling this way, my focus is on communing with those more vulnerable than I and how I can learn and understand the struggle in which I was birthed, in which we were birthed.

A lot of my initial reactions are here. I feel strongly that no one is going to run over me—and I’m here to lift up those who may not feel the same, but still believe their lives deserve a fighting chance. I associate with these people because they actually have the potential (and will be) the strongest among us. Let’s get active.

• A related reminder: your audience is not your community. I don’t make decks and call y’all “my community” to seem more authentic. I don’t hold a hidden agenda, and I don’t have to fake it.

• Another reminder: Your community isn’t just your friends. Being in community with someone doesn’t mean you need to like everyone. It’s about a shared mindset and values. Showing up for someone shouldn’t depend on whether you like them. For example, if you get an attitude with me, and we’re in community, I know my power and I know peace; I’m not deterred from seeing your humanity. I’ll still offer to drive you home if you can’t afford an Uber (or don’t want to take one because GROSS), then I’ll drop you off and say goodbye *kiss kiss*.

I was built for such a time as this. I’m here, happy to be alive, and I refused to be crushed. Remember: Deciding to maintain your joy makes you public enemy #1. This is not the soft life. I revel in it.

All being said, this is what’s going to happen: I am going to keep writing this newsletter. I am going to keep writing, period. I am going to keep filming Studio Supply. I have a draft on why Korean spas are the best place to wash your box braids and it will get published. 

I am going to continue being of service through my God-given gifts. This is why we’re alive: to be of service to one another. And most of all, I’ll keep making my day to day a rejection of the racism that so badly wants me to kneel to it. 

Let’s get into the beauty news. Here’s a preview, subscribe for the whole enchilada.

• Submissions are open until November 20 for the Cécred x BeyGOOD Salon Business Grant, which will award twenty-five $10,000 grants to salon owners in Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, and New Jersey to support their businesses, whether they operate booths, home setups, or full salons. Apply here or send to a friend.

• Dieux has tapped Ryan Scott as its new CEO, bringing him on board to steer the brand’s next chapter. He succeeds founder and CEO Charlotte Palermino, who will now serve as Chief Brand Officer. He was formerly the President and Chief People Officer at Tatcha.

• CareVe just announced their debut into haircare. Specifically into a major category: anti-dandruff. The line includes Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Conditioner, and a 2-in-1 option with 1% pyrithione zinc to tackle flakes and itching, plus their signature ceramides for scalp support. The collection also includes Gentle Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner for everyday use. Each product is 10 bucks or less! I have to say, affordable haircare gets me excited these days.

• Ellie the Elephant collabs with NYX Cosmetics ☠️

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My new email format is reflected in this email, and goes as follows:

For everyone:

• Culture essays will be free for all subscribers to read. Super important that creatives, fellow writers comrades, and artists — especially Black and Brown folks — continue to see how their work is influencing the greater zeitgeist. Since I’m not a big fan of the subscription model to begin with, my feelings don’t really negate the fact that I have to start somewhere, so this is the compromise I’ve made to keep myself sane.

For Subscibers:

• Beauty news; beauty industry news I find intriguing, and intersections as music, tech, women’s health, sports, “Hollywood” (when will the empire collapse?!) — all in my voice and through my POV.

• Media reads; beauty culture deep dives from writers across every corner of the web.

I have to express the immense gratitude I have for ALL subscribers. I receive a lot of positive feedback out in the IRL world, and it’s motivated me to keep doing. Thank you.

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Reporting LIVE from my TikTok algorithm: girls are robbing banks. Let’s take this makeup trend/moment, made viral and exciting by only a few MUA creators, and trace it back. This quick hit is as unserious as these creators, and honestly? Sometimes, I just love to laugh. I love people who are still having fun with beauty and not taking themselves too serious.

My entryway was BeatbyDeb. She appeared on my screen, pulled three stocking caps over her head, cut out the eyes, pursed her lips like “yup”, and got to work. She credited UniquelyTyana and Ava. Ava seems like the originator of the bank robbery GRWM, but she credits Berny for the inspo. “Apologies in advance. This is an abomination. Inspo: @berny.”

Berny created a more haunting look, adding an all-white pupil effect as part of a Halloween series titled DOLL FACE. “Doll face” is a term credited to Val Garland for makeup looks that start with a stocking cap. Garland is a veteran makeup artist, responsible for countless editorials and catwalk makeup concepts we’ve watched over the past two decades. Doll face is in reference to a Gareth Pugh Spring 2016 show she keyed. “Schizo disco, plastic pulp, Soho sex club with inspirations taking in Donna Summer juxtaposed with Lindsay Kemp and a bit of drag queen Divine,” Garland told WWD at the time. The hair team placed Nylon stockings over each model’s head; MAC’s acrylic paint was used for much of the stark colors.

Ava meme-ified all of this: she cut out eyes—because, of course, you still need to see when robbing a bank—and applied it to the act itself. Holyghail, who has caught some visibility for her Roblox makeup recreations, noted how “roblox coded is it.” The robbery videos are paired with Finesse, a track by violinist Michael Prince, Koncept K, and @avonnosleep and @willnosleep. If you’ve heard the song, you’ll recognize the phrase “do you not get the Koncept?” It’s an ironic/iconic match for this GRWM videos where the goal is to be seen (virality), but to go unrecognized (to get the (stolen) bag).

Maybe more ironic is girls are robbing banks. Beauty supplies and beauty retailers are prime targets for robberies. Police are searching (allegedly) for two women suspected of stealing over $10,000 worth of beauty products at a Las Vegas beauty supply. Just like corner stores, gas station, and liquor stores, beauty supplies are vulnerable to robberies as they are more likely to have cash on hand and pose low security risk, but it’s not only beauty supplies. Thieves carried out smash-and-grab robberies at three Ulta Beauty stores in suburban Chicago, making off with expensive products during daylight hours. And this is just within the past week. I see beauty supply robbery stories and cash rewards to find offenders close to once a week, minimum. Beauty supplies serve a dual purpose.

Anyway, I think in loglines. So know that I’ve already got the Set It Off inspired film inspired by this trend mapped out. 

Check out the latest project I worked on with photographer Renell Medrano: The first edition of ICE Magazine. Visually, Renell’s inspiration for ICE comes from Players magazine, a 1970s softcore publication known for blending sensuality, Black culture, and intellect. Yet, while Players catered to the male gaze, Medrano wanted to create a space for women to see themselves.

In collaboration with WePresent, you can download the magazine visa WeTransfer (physical copies are sold out.) Not only did I write and interview majority of the pieces, I crafted copy for both Renell’s LAMBÓN exhibition and the magazine launch, which both took place at WSA in NYC. Renell’s work is all about flipping the script on beauty; she speaks volumes as photographer, and I was glad to be part of this ongoing moment. The images are insane.

This week’s beauty news [paid]

We’re talking about: Megan Thee Stallion’s upcoming documentary, Charlotte Palermino is on Subway Takes, and the professor who just developed the first algorithm to simulate Afro-textured hair… and other news sparked by women who think, relevant beauty updates, and today’s beauty icons. Plus, I talk a bit about my own journey over the past two years in relation to Simone Biles and how she is impacting women’s mental health.

Read more

I do not believe it is my job to gawk and then share that gawking with you. I believe it is my job to make you think. I believe part of the thinking is being in conversation with you. Any thoughts or reactions, feel free to speak your mind in the comments. I hope you enjoy this edition of the Studio Symoné newsletter – and I hope it makes you think. It’s got me thinking too… 

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Currently manifesting a boyfriend who plays an incredible set while I put on my makeup 😩

Beauty News

13 stories.

1. You know what happened: 

During a congressional hearing on whether Attorney General Merrick Garland should be held in contempt, Representative Marjorie Taylor Greene insulted Representative Jasmine Crockett by suggesting her "fake eyelashes" were interfering with her reading. This prompted Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez: “That is absolutely unacceptable. How dare you attack the physical appearance of another person?” This confrontation escalated further when Crockett referenced Greene’s “bleach blonde, bad built, butch body.”

Now let me say this:

• *Tosses head back, laughs to the sky” woooooooooooo! The thought of being in an exchange of this manner makes me see red. Provoked by way of your appearance, what would you have said or done? 

• On the insults: The fake lashes comment is so anti-Black coded, I am so sorry baby, but it is. Greene thought she could reference a lash look primarily seen among Black women, yet adopted by white women who cosplay as a version of a Black girl they’ve seen at school, online, or in their neighborhood, to insult a Black woman whose lashes are not even that dramatic. So the insult was racist and it was also a reach. Yet, it falls in line with Greene’s takes on anyone who is not on her side. “Bad built, butch body” is not coded at all. It is body shaming. Neither comment is funny nor interesting. I’m gonna need something stronger shot up my veins because I’m tired. 

  • You don’t like Greene? Me neither! You chuckled at Crockett’s rebuttal? Me too! I think we should be clear about why we laughed, what’s really going on here, and how we respond to it.

2. Skipping over Youthforia drama because although horrifying, fixing my fingers to explain foundation-related news is not my bag any longer. The lesson is to follow Javon Ford on TikTok so we can all get our facts up, and learn something from this situation. This is not the first time, and it won’t be the last, that a brand messes up this badly.

3. I thought a proposed California bill would be a great entryway into the Sephora Tweens conversation. Bill 2491 seeks to prohibit the sale of skincare products containing retinoids, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) to children under 13 due to potential health risks. It wants to protect young folks from the adverse effects of ingredients often found in anti-aging and acne treatments. I would call this a “trend bill.” Let’s quickly break down how incredibly short-sighted it is:

   • Bill 2491 puts a lot of weight on retail stores and brands. What are sales associates supposed to have to do; request IDs at the front desk of Sephora like it’s the club? And are brands supposed to add warnings to their packaging? No to both questions.

   • The Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) published a press release and called the bill "well-intentioned" but incredibly: "By proposing sales restrictions for a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, including basic essentials like sunscreens, moisturizers, and cleansers, this bill threatens to overregulate products that are safe and essential for healthy skin care."

   • During a conversation about this bill with Arabelle, they brought up a point I don’t think is being considered nearly enough within this conversation – and quite frankly, it’s one of the reasons we should have a glimmer of compassion: Tweens barely have third spaces when they are not in afterschool activities. Where do we expect kids to hang out these days… the mall? The arcade? The soda shop? Places that no longer exist? Just like adults, few places exist outside of the home, bar, school, or cafe to simply be. Why wouldn't they resort to retail spaces glorified via TikTok algorithms? 

   • I am realizing that I am a tween apologist. I am both joking and serious. Even if I believe these articles are written about a demographic of tweens who can take their parent's credit card to Sephora. Are we mad at tweens for their behaviour in these beauty stores, for the fact they're using these products at home, or both? I think it’s both. However, I’m having a hard time understanding how we can condemn children for displaying the same consumer behavior as us, just at a younger age. Makes me wonder who they learned it from. :( Children come out of the womb brilliant. It’s all of our job to keep them that way – without needing consumerism as a crutch to do so. I wonder how we can think differently about accomplishing this.

4. Johnson & Johnson is proposing a settlement to pay over $6 billion toward talc cancer lawsuits filed against them. This money will go to tens of thousands of current ovarian cancer claims and future claims. Tens of thousands of lawsuits have been filed. 

   • “J&J has stopped selling talc-based baby powder in favor of cornstarch-based products, citing an increase in lawsuits and "misinformation" about the talc product's safety.” - Reuters

   • Additional read: As worries about Baby Powder's safety mounted, J&J focused its pitches on minority, overweight women — Reuters, 2019

5. There’s an update to a summer of 2018 incident, sparked by the diagnosis of Stage 1 HIV to a woman who contracted the virus after receiving a Vampire Facial (platelet-rich plasma microneedling facial) at a New Mexico spa, despite having no other known risk factors. This April, the CDC released a report on further findings of their investigation. The investigation revealed an HIV “cluster” among four spa clients and one sexual partner of a spa client linked to the spa’s unsterile practices. Up until this point, HIV transmission through cosmetic injection services has not been documented.

6. Ceylon Skincare is closing down. I will most certainly be archiving my perfume from the brand, which I love and keep in my makeup bag. I loved Ceylon for their interesting approach to IRL events and activations. They strove to engage with Black men and men of color, genuinely. I even remember the newspaper they released. Patrick Boateng is a friend of mine and a brilliant mind; I am interested to see where he’ll focus his efforts next.

7. Glossier is opening its 13th store in Las Vegas. WWD has the exclusive. Glossier also went back to its original balm dot com formula. Listen to Charlotte Palermino for a smart take on that.

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PEOPLE

Figures who may or may not be beauty influencers, yet their careers and life choices intersect with the space in ways that influence beauty culture(s) and how they are portrayed in media. Or they released a product that intrigues me (lol).

2. Candace Parker, who just retired from the WNBA, will serve as president of Adidas women’s basketball.

3. This one’s for all my fellow Richard Christiansen stans: Flamingo Estate is gracing JW Hyatt properties world wide with its presence. “Scent. Sound. Taste.” The "Scent,” Expansion, is a candle inspired by the JW Garden's natural elements. The "Sound" element is four playlists nature-inspired for different times of day. "Taste" is a wildflower honey with adaptogenic herbs, which will be found in dishes and available for purchase.

4. Kelly Slater launched a sunscreen line inspired by his hours in the sun as a surfer. Mineral sunscreens. The site looks good, art direction and copy are nice, the packaging is solid, and all ingredients are explained… cool!

5. Miss Bella Hadid launched her fragrance brand Orabella with three scents. Here are some reviews via Reddit if you’re looking for ones from people who have bought the fragrance or smelled it in Ulta, where it is carried. 

6. FINALLY: Mary J. Blige released a line of boots with Giuseppe, which sold out within 24 hours. Obviously. I’ll let Ms. @mariebustinmoved tell the rest:

@mariebustinmovesI put these boots on 2 hours ago and i cant stop dancing 😂😂😂😂😂😂 #milliondollarbaby #maryjbligeboots #bustinmoves

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13. Sabrina Bahsoon is M.A.C.’s new global ambassador. You know her for sparking a global trend, seen on public transportation everywhere: 

@sabrinabahsoonDelulu or manifesting ✨ #tubegirl shoutout to @In Print We Trust for the v cute tee 🥹

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A Workshop I’ll Be Joining

Fundraising Event: On Beauty, Care, and Acts Towards Liberation. An unrecorded talk on beauty and liberation on June 22nd hosted by Arabelle Sicardi.

You've Got Lipstick on Your Chin

Fundraising Event: On Beauty, Care, and Acts Towards Liberation

Hi friends. I was already planning on offering a version of this sometime this year but felt it could make a difference sooner rather than later. I’ve decided to roll out a talk on the different ways care work - and beauty work, specifically - both aid and resist systems of power, and how we can utilize this knowledge together…

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2 years ago · 8 likes · 1 comment · Arabelle Sicardi

LONG READS

My latest:

Tony Nominee Jocelyn Bioh Puts Braiders Centerstage — Brittany Luse [podcast]

‘I Will Never Forget Any of It’: Brittney Griner Is Ready to Talk - J Wortham

She initiated our conversation by asking what hair products I used: Her curls, she confided, have been in recovery, too. When images of Griner were broadcast around the world with her long locs shorn, it seemed like an indication of the cruelty she was enduring. But Griner told me that cutting her hair was actually a rare moment of agency during her imprisonment. Her locs were always damp.

The Other Met Gala Dinner — Ama Kwarteng

How Lip Gloss Became The Answer To Gen Z’s Problems — Kyndall Cunningham // One of my favorite questions I like to ask is if you’d like to see my lip gloss collection

My Therapist Is A Tiktok Star – Kate Lindsay  // The thought of this makes me nauseous :(

The Secret Sauce Behind Aesop’s Cult Status Hand Wash – Emma Sandler

What Ban? Brands Double Down On Tiktok Shop — Liz Flora

How Deep Sleep Became A Status Symbol — Laura Pitcher

The Dangers And Delusions Of The Veneer Tech — Phil Lewis

Why Gen X Is Beauty’s Most Valuable But Overlooked Demographic - Jenny B. Fine  // I took five minutes to list the women I admire from a beauty perspective. I ran that through Chat GPT 🤭. Of 68, 17 are between the ages 44-57. In addition, 15 of these women are 57 or older or were 57 or older at the time of their death.

Peace,
Darian

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In promotional photographs of Janet Jackson for Poetic Justice, her smile is neutral and her arms are crossed. She’s giving a demeanor of directness and focus, which is softened by a French manicure. However, even in the side profile, you are drawn to the far-off look in her eyes. What is she staring at? 

In Poetic Justice, Jackson plays Justice, a young woman living in Los Angeles in her mid-20s, fresh out of hair school, devastated by the loss of her boyfriend which she witnessed up close. During the majority of the film, Jackson wears a paperboy cap that reads as if she’s had it forever. The cap is more than a “look.” Jackson’s fuzzy box braids rest under that cap and have the most to say during the movie’s runtime – and it is the circumstances that led to those braids that help build Jackson’s character over time. 

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When we see Justice after the loss of her boyfriend, director John Singleton opens with a scene of her working at a salon. It has all the bells of a buzzy Black beauty salon: a few territorial stylists, kids (this salon actually has a daycare), fast-talking, lots of movement, information exchanged, jokes cracked – and the young mailman who has probably hit on every woman stylist in the spot. That’s 2Pac, playing Lucky, with whom Justice eventually forms a romantic relationship through a trip up to Oakland in Lucky’s mail truck  – a trip she’s convinced to go on, thanks to her wayward friend Iesha, played by Regina King.2

Justice’s braids – sans cap or scarf – make their second appearance in the most pivotal scene of Poetic Justice. Over the span of the film, we see the progression of Justice’s braids from pristine to worn-in, which is a realistic detail. On the group’s drive back to Los Angeles, after the relationship between Iesha and Chicago (played by Joe Torry) implodes, Lucky stops the truck. All of the characters get out of the truck and argue for various, dramatic reasons. Lucky walks away from his mail truck to cool off and despite her frustration with that man, Justice joins Lucky under a tree. Here, Jackson is her most vulnerable, and it’s when a sincere connection between Lucky and Justice is built.

This scene is not the screenshots that make it to the top of Google Images. Instead, you’ll see face card shots of Jackson with her paperboy cap on. Or, in a white head wrap that pulls her braids into a high ponytail, covering most of her head and those braid parts. These two classic images are recreated on Halloween, every year to my memory. I don’t see jumbo box braids referred to as “poetic justice braids” any longer, but they used to be. In 2014, Beyoncé similarly wore a red scarf in a “Grown Woman” music video scene and it felt like a nod to Jackson in Poetic Justice. Subsequently, the style found its way back into the trend cycle. Poetic Justice braids. Unintentional or not, these fantastic images of Jackson are the ones ingrained into our psyche.

Now – to be very direct – your boyfriend does not have to die for you to end up with less-than-pristine braids. Any Black person who's held on to braids long after that unofficial expiration date has been to the edge of no return. So to think of all the relatable circumstances that lead one further away from booking that next appointment, or setting aside hours to take braids out in front of the television, it is realistic for Jackson to have those blurred parted lines as she plays Justice. Exhaustion, tiredness, long hours on your feet doing other people’s heads, grief, family. Not only are fuzzy braids inevitable, but they are the mark of a fast and fly girl living in any era. In this case, the braids helped Jackson to capture the mundane <> brilliant balance that Black women and femmes often strike. Expertly.

If fresh braids are the equivalent of a fresh attitude and guaranteed self-esteem boost, worn braids represent a certain kind of struggle. It takes time, literally and emotionally, to feel comfortable in worn braids because the idea of neatness plays a role in the way we’ve decided to present ourselves – at some point in time. And if you aren’t able to achieve that, it can lead to low self-esteem, and sometimes depression. 

In the same breath, lived-in box braids are just as much of an experience as fresh braids – just a different one. The maintenance is different. TikToks sharing tips and tricks of styles that conceal worn box braid parts, or share ways to make braids “last longer” can attest to this sentiment. You’ll find videos of Black women washing braids for maintenance, or showing how they wrap their braids at night to slow down the worn-in timeline. You’ll see women taking out 4-week-old braids or showing how to style month-old braids into goddess braids. There are tips on how to stretch your braids another week, or how to wash two-week-old cornrows. There still seems to be an inclination toward neatness – or I would even say the maintenance of braids. Still, I like how no one is explaining their circumstance or motive for the braid upkeep in these videos. Black women are sharing what works for them so others can apply the idea to their circumstances. So as you see, it’s all connected and there are a lot of feelings interwoven – and memories for me. 

I get flashbacks to being at the mercy of an unpredictable work week in the newsroom with no time to coordinate an appointment I might have to cancel. Or the check I’d spend on getting my hair done instead of another expense I had living in New York City. This was right after college when I was already in the thick of growing out my relaxer. I was working at Dateline NBC in 30 Rock, and I often wore braids because they were an easy transition style – and cut my get-ready time by a third. 

As a Broadcast Journalism student, I often wore braids on camera because I felt they pulled my hair back and put a focus on my face as the person telling the story. I didn’t view braids as eccentric, unprofessional, or unkempt. No one ever brought them up to me – at least not to my face – except for a Black professor who questioned my professionalism. Which is neither here nor there to me at this point, and it wasn’t back then.

I wore braids to the 85th Academy Awards in 2013. I knew what I liked – medium box braids, medium thickness. Please note feed in braids were not on trend yet, so the technique used resulted in knots. To be frank, if you could notice them, you were too close. But when they started to get fuzzy, I started to fuss. It was my friends who shook me out of my obsession with “neatness.” This is why you need good friends. In fact, the worn-in braids made me look even more like myself, they expressed. It wasn’t until Zoe Kravitz solidified the messy human hair micro braids that Black girls started to do their spin with synthetic hair, human hair, or a mixture of both. Today, the goal is to make sure the worn braids aren't wearing you. In fact, keeping braids for at least 5 weeks – I would say – is standard.

To say “Respect me no matter how I look” in a world that is fixated on making you run around to fit an aesthetic mold is a muscle that gets stronger with practice. And sure, walking out of the salon with fresh braids will deliver that serotonin hit, but these are braids I will need to make sure I love on days I am not feeling myself.

Jackson’s character sheds light on another aspect: Justice’s braids simply exist during the duration of the movie. She doesn’t address her hair, and neither does anyone else. The paperboy hat is a way of styling her braids without having to say a word, which is a true luxury when it seems that everyone has an opinion about your existence when being quiet should be the real beauty standard.

I mean, you should see my journal. Arrows, squares, cycles, circles, brackets. I’m constantly trying to organize my creative pursuits in relation to my time, skills, and strengths — and to be realistic about it. I have so many things I want to do, yet I have to ground myself in the reality of my current capabilities and resources, plus the knowing that one day I will have more of both. Still, my mind maps don’t have to reflect a perfect plan. I make these graphics because they help me to have fun while processing what I’m thinking about. This graphic was a turning point for me, though.

Recently, I had a DJ gig1. I was so proud. It was my best set yet. I played a mix of Groove Theory and Peggy Gou and Loleatta Holloway and Teddy Pendergrass. Blending R&B with house and disco is my dream. However, preparing for it, I made myself feel dreadful, and I had to pull back from overthinking. I had to remind myself, “This is supposed to be fun. This isn’t a homework assignment. This is not a story, and there is no deadline. Again, you don’t have to be perfect at this. You can loosen up, so let yourself loosen up. You don’t have to make your preparation process complicated. Again, this is not a homework assignment. You know what you want to play. You just have to prepare in goodwill. And your set does not have to be perfect. When it comes to music, there is no “perfect.”” I imagined myself having fun to put myself at ease. Eventually? I did. But I had to keep coming back to “Girl, this is supposed to be fun!” 

I love DJing and coming up with new transitions in my head, but right now, I’ve decided that I need to put DJing on pause, with the knowing that I will come back to it when the time is right. At the end of the day, I envision myself as a woman traveling the world DJing. But right now, I have to focus on creative pursuits connected to goals that will get me closer to my stratosphere. I wouldn’t have been able to make that decision in the past. I would’ve gotten in my head about the tension I feel about money and access, and let it frustrate me. And it still does. But now, it doesn’t lead me into a new phase of depression. Some versions of restraint make me feel sad. Today, I have a different resolve. My sadness doesn’t lead to inaction. I’ve found a new way to surrender that doesn’t feel like giving up but honors patience.  

This gets me back to my point about my journal. My circles, squares, and arrows. I am always trying to figure out what to prioritize and how it relates to time, which is one of the greatest things we can give ourselves. 

I would say, over the past two years, I’ve sacrificed in various areas of my life to double down on being 100% me. I don’t regret it, but there is one thing I wish I had remembered while going through this time in my life. That through the process, one gets better. What does that mean for me? It means the habits I’ve worked to develop around how I eat, manage my time, and prioritize my creative pursuits will eventually lead to real change and more confidence. I guess that’s why we do it? I do not know. If so, I don’t think it was top of mind for me. I think I’m doing it because I’m seeking god, the divine, and I want to discover myself. However I wonder about that connection, between pursuit of self and desire for a particular outcome. I feel like I’m kind of butchering this. lol. Just know: I’ve had to loosen up. I’ve had to dissolve ego-driven motivations connected to the outcome of a project. I’ve made room for motivations around connection, sharing, and community that keep me steadfast and are far more sustainable. See the graphic above, it serves as my reminder!

Back to the perfection. I have a few newsletters 90% finished that I did not publish because I let perfection overwhelm me. When I read them back… they kinda slap. I believe there is information in these newsletters that I still think you’d like to know. This newsletter is from the beauty junkie and novice. So I have confidence you may learn one or two things you didn’t know. Plus, the long reads are fire. There are incredible writers doing work along my side and these stories are evergreen. Let’s revisit them. 

I’m learning to use this platform to be more informal. My friends — the creatives and the corporate baddies — are helping me to do this. I’m learning how to lean on my them for edits and a listening ear. I don’t have to feel buttoned up all of the time on the internet. Anyone whose met me in real life knows I Am That Girl you wanna be around because I like to have fun and make folks feel welcome. It’s a little silly that I act so pent-up on the internet. I can loosen up some and just say what I think and how I feel, even if it’s messy. I'm practicing not feeling the need to have all of my thoughts perfectly organized, categorized, and communicated seamlessly.

Thanks for listening,

Darian

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• you’re just so beautiful 2 me i could cry (and did)

• “Hey Diva!!!” Now say it back.

• It’s 1996 and Braids by Sabrina cost $75 on Crenshaw + Florence. (Some LA history in the comments)

• I don’t wanna be saved

• Follow Studio Symoné for the funniest beauty videos on the internet.

BEAUTY NEWS

1. We have to talk about the WNBA and NCAA!

Growing up, my dad was a college basketball coach. I was not very good, I played softball, but I’ve always had a healthy appreciation for the game.

I wrote about athletes as true beauty influencers in 2021 and how I could already see beauty brands playing into this, but now beauty is full fledged part-of-the-conversation. 

Athletes are the beauty influencers of 2021. Several Black women, most notably Sha’Carri Richardson, Naomi Osaka, and Simon Biles, took the center stage of conversation in the sports world and made bold moves to claim their own agency in a world that views them, both as women of color and athletes, as a commodity. Gymnast Sunisa Lee of Team USA won the women's individual all-around gold medal — and became the first Hmong-American to compete in the Olympics — all while wearing white acrylic nails with a nod to the Olympic rings. South African runner Caster Semenya continued to speak out after her denial of a spot in the 2020 Olympics. Throughout 2020 and 2021, we saw the women of the WNBA gain more recognition for their activism around women’s rights, abortion, racism, LGBTQ rights, and voting rights. By nature of their careers, athletes use their bodies to make statements. This year, their decisions on and off the courts shifted perspectives on mental health and gender in a serious way, and deserve recognition for it. - Via 2021’s Biggest Beauty News

I’m positive you can read something more recent. Speaking to WNBA players, I think it’s important to remember how they spoke out loudly against police brutality, abortion, women’s rights – as well as advocating for their own fair pay – when it could’ve cost them their careers. Before the beauty endorsements, this is what I was initially reporting on and including them as part of my beauty newsletter for these reasons. The beauty industry has come around to them, it is not the other way around. Due to increased viewership, the WNBA may expand to 16 teams by 2028 and could have their own media deal, separate from the NBA. This is all so exciting. I’m hoping to be able to bring a group of #ssgirls to a game.

2. Beyoncé showed us her real hair and everyone from the New York Times to TMZ wrote about it, but these stories don’t seem to get to the why? At least not enough for me. Why are people shocked? Why is there this stereotype that Black women don’t have long hair? Why is it so hard for people to believe? Honestly, I’m looking at the public and thinking about these questions, more than I feel the urge to tirelessly explain how wigs and protective styles work and that Black women don’t have to prove anything to anyone. I think there are some other angles worth exploring.

   1. Textured hair types need more hydration and moisture than straighter hair types. Beauty brands have historically not considered textured hair, Black hair during product development. Without hair products with ingredients that help to keep textured hair strong, I could see how our hair was more prone to breakage, meaning that short styles may have been more common among us. Even using the wrong products can be detrimental. It wasn’t until we started making our own products that delivered the care our hair need, did that it began to change. While I can see a time when more Black women did have a tendency to wear their hair short, I also could speculate a shift. You can look to the early 1900s, with haircare inventions by Annie Turnbo Malone and Madam C.J. Walker — and even the creation of our own beauty salons, which happened around the same time. So technically, “Black women can’t have long hair” has been an outdated stereotype for over 120 years, well over a century. And even before then, it may have been less common, but that doesn’t make the concept “Black women can’t grow long hair” true.

   2. There is something else. I notice a weird undertone that growing long hair is reserved for white women — not something Black women are capable of. In relation to beauty standards, the idea that long, straight hair is superior aims to stamp Black women with a perceived mark of inferiority. Equating hair length to self worth is insane, yet mindset lives rampant in a narrative based in lack of knowledge more than truth.

   3. I am glad Beyoncé’s video became a touch point for us to talk about Black women and Black hair, I just want to make sure we examine why we are having the conversation to begin with. Come to find out many of us (Black girls) do have something in common with Mrs. Carter. Getting asked the question in some turn of the phrase, “Is that your real hair!?” At this point, it’s a joke among us. Because we know chances are slim you’ve ever asked the white girl with blonde microlinks if that’s her real hair 🙏

3. RELATED: Cécred and BeyGOOD have committed to an annual $500k fund for hairstylists in chosen U.S. cities, by way of scholarships and business funds. On April 20th, they announced the awardees. Want to be considered for the next round of business grants? Applications open May 1, 2024. Pass along to your fav hair stylist. [Now this is my favorite news. I love posting about all of the grants, classes and workshops. Send ‘em my way, please!]

4. Spelman College is expanding its cosmetic science program. Chemistry majors can now add a concentration in cosmetic chemistry. Those in other majors can minor in cosmetic chemistry. Press release + program overview

5. Hydration news: For the first time, the EPA is putting a limit on the amount of  “forever chemicals” found in tap water. PFAs are a group of chemicals found in everything from cleaning products to personal care items. If you’re looking for a good explainer, The Daily did an episode this week on “forever chemicals” and how rampant they are within the products we use here in the U.S. 

6. A new state bill removes the 500 hours requirement for braiders in Louisiana. Instead: 

   If passed, the bill would replace the licensing rule with a permitting process that does not require hundreds of hours of education. While the bill would allow braiders to work without a license, the state Cosmetology Board would still require licensing for salons that perform other services. — nola.com

7. Thirteen Lune collaborated with American Airlines to upgrade their amenities, specifically skincare offerings on flight. Brands include names such as Joanna Vargas and Relevant, the skincare brand of Thirteen Lune co-founder Nyakio Grieco. These kits will be available in first class, business, and economy premium.

8. Ben Nye makeup (Banana Setting Powder!!!) is filing for bankruptcy following a number of talc-related lawsuits. 

9. After founding The Honest Company 12 years ago, Jennifer Alba is stepping down as Chief Creative Officer. I thought this was pretty notable considering how long Honest has been around. Carla Vernón will stay on as CEO. She became the first Afro-Latina CEO of a publicly traded company when she took on the role in 2023. I was not aware of this! (Side note: Have you ever received a sample from a brand you don't expect to have a good version of a certain product? Their concealer is so good, great for a natural look.)

10. Missy Elliott is going on tour, and it’s the first she’s ever headlined. As an artist and rapper Missy Elliott is someone who has helped defined beauty in hip hop through a futuristic lens,  really interested to see what sort of costuming, hair, makeup will come from this show. Ciara and Busta Rhymes will join her. 

11. Lynette Nylander has a new podcast via NTS, Sound & Styles… and hairstylist JAWARA is her second interview! I learned JAWARA’ mother is Sister Carol, and his aunt is Sister Nancy. Now that’s iconic 

Long Reads

You've Got Lipstick on Your Chin

Soul Loss and Eyeshadow Palettes

I’ve been obsessing over a Facebook post for months now. If you’ve been following the genocide on Gaza you’ll likely know the one: The Molehill ‘s post on sweetheart lingerie talked about it, too: Throughout the genocide, IDF soldiers have looted the homes and belongings of Palestinians. There are videos online of soldiers rummaging through boxes of clothing and jewe…

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2 years ago · 77 likes · Arabelle Sicardi

Inside Ukraine’s Wartime Salons - Sophia Panych

Danié Gómez-Ortigoza: Hair Braiding To Unite the Climate Movement – Yessenia Funes

My personality, summed up in a headline: Let's All Just Move to the Spa — Garrett Munce.

To Black Women, “Girlhood” Is More Than A Trend - Cierra Black

Glossy Pop Newsletter: What Vacation did next — How the 3-year-old brand continues to shake up the sunscreen category - Sara Spruch-Feiner [Vacation is a brand I actually pay attention to. I like their commitment to an aesthetic that could be tacky with the wrong creative direction. Somehow, they did it justice.] 

What Else I’m Into

Watching docs, listening to music, researching new topics, taking in art is all part of my education. It informed my beauty work, so I want to share these pieces of me. I am not sure if this is connected to “taste” but… there has been a lot of conversation around taste, and what taste is. I also wonder how that term is connected to service. Is it? A desire to share that’s rooted in wanting to spread knowledge based on what you’re experiencing. This idea that sharing your taste is about more than a posture or about you, you, you. Maybe I’m stretching it, but nonetheless, in spirit of learning, let’s get into it:

• Just watched The Pan-African Festival in Algiers (1969). Musicians, dancers and representatives of national liberation movements joined Algeria in celebrating their independence from France (1962). The way war and genocide is spoken about, you’d think they were talking about Palestine today. Yet, this is juxtaposed with images of art, freedom, and strength from African people across the continent. After you watch it, THEN go look up how it was made. You’ll read that it was not initially embraced, and why. Watch here for free.

• The Day I Met Björk: Spike Jonez curated by Huberto Leon. A digital zine in collaboration with WeTransfer. It’s filled with unseen photos from the day Jonez and Björk met for the first time. The photos are silly, fierce, and otherworldly. I am obsessed! It’s free to download. (Also: love the work the WeTransfer editorial team has been doing for a minute. The site is WePresent.)

• Enjoyed watching The Greatest Night in Pop (Netflix) on the making of “We Are The World.” What a moment in time. Sad to think about how a song like this could never be made among today’s American pop stars.

• This tea got me through winter; through my ruptured ovarian cyst, through two very severe colds. A blend of turmeric, cinnamon, and ginger delivered the anti inflammatory qualities I needed.

Peace.

Darian

Interwebz

• Cardi B discusses war (genocide) in her bonnet.

• My man, my man, my man!

• THIS is my final form (solidarity with lipglossssssssss)

• What do you consider an anti-wellness beauty brand? Arabelle Sicardi wants to know.

• Community space SALON was included in "Our Women and Their Collections” for the New Balance 1998 30th Anniversary

Industry / Politics

• Relaxers: Here is what you need to know right now, at this moment, about the latest in reaction to the release of an NIH study that connects chemical hair straighteners to uterine cancer. The FDA plans to propose a rule that would ban products that contain formaldehyde1 and formaldehyde-releasing chemicals. According to Reuters over 7,000 relaxer lawsuits have been consolidated in a Chicago federal court, following. In connection: L’Oréal, Revlon, and other companies mentioned in the lawsuit have tried to get the case of Jenny Mitchell dismissed, but this week, a judge said the lawsuit could move forward. 

  • Revlon and L’Oréal to Reuters: “We do not believe the science supports a link between chemical hair straighteners or relaxers and cancer,” Revlon said. L’Oreal added that it is committed to offering the best products “for all skin and hair types, all genders, all identities, all cultures, all ages” and that its hair relaxers have a “rich heritage and history” originating with Black inventors and entrepreneurs." // Just gonna say it, and I hope I’m clear: To throw the issue back on Black inventors in response to a reporter's questions about a study and lawsuits connected to your product and to then, in the same breath, also act as if you are following in the tradition of these formulators, is nasty work. The DEI/PR agency, executive, or consultant that helped L’Oréal craft that take should feel deeply uncomfortable about it. Where is your head?

  • Beauty conglomerates are sued all the time, but I’m interested to see how this one will turn out. Just so you know my status and can judge me as you see fit: I just applied a relaxer last night. Whenever I want a 90s, sleek, no-time-down pixie, I reach for creamy crack. 

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• The FDA announced that it is postponing the first step in a series of changes that are coming under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022, or MoCRA: beauty brands will now have until June 24 to submit facility registration and product listing. Read more from Lexy Lebsack.

• Locked up, they won’t let me out: Sephora has removed all of its fragrances from the floor, aside from fragrance tester bottles.

Health + Wellness / STEM

• Flamingo expects to donate at least $1 million to Girl Scouts USA in a two-year partnership that will focus on building body confidence and self-esteem among girls. (P.S. - Love Flamingo’s shaving cream and I purchase it with my hard cold cash.)

• L’Oréal USA has announced the winners of it For Women in Science (FWIS) Fellowship program, one they’ve been running for 20 years now.

Sports

• LSU’s Angel Reese was absent from the team’s second game of the season with no clear answer. Read Lindsay Gibbs on why Reese deserves better (clue: her coach isn’t helping.) // Why is Angel Reese in this newsletter? Reese is a certified beauty culture girl, a Gen-Z image maker, and at the tip of conversations about women athletes and beauty – even before the Mielle Organics partnership. In 2021 I wrote about why athletes are the real beauty influencers; here is a more recent article about it because there have been big developments.

• NYX is now the official makeup sponsor of the New York Liberty.

World

• Avon is opening its first physical store in the UK (where it’s been headquartered since 2016) followed by South Africa and Brazil. Currently has 63 stores in Turkey. //  Not their demo, but not the point. Worthwhile update. 

• The classic probiotic beverage Yakult is opening its first café in Japan, which will feature a spa. “A beauty salon above the cafe will offer facials using cosmetics made with lactic acid bacteria..” // NICE… I love a cafe/spa situation, seems like my type of place.

#nowreading 

🚨 Offer 10% off my book Black Icons in Herstory: 50 Legendary Women. A great gift during the holiday season, especially for young ones! Code: HOLIDAY

• How Eyeliner Became A Symbol Of Political Resistance — Adele Walton

• Why Do Beauty Brands Post About Politics? — Jennifer Sullivan’s “Ask A Beauty Editor” Column

• Sorry, Environmentally-Friendly Glitter Just Doesn't Exist — Elizabeth Siegel

• The BoF Podcast: Re-Imagining Indian Beauty — Imran Amed

• Who Will Snap Up Beauty Assets on the Block? — Jennifer Weil, Kathryn Hopkin

• My Boyfriend Helped Me Take Out My Braids. We Both Learned A Lot. — L'Oréal Blackett

#nowlistening

I really write this newsletter so I want to tell you what I’m listening to.

Can’t Shut Us Down - Kitty Cash & PawPaw Rod

Listen to Studio Symoné’s playlists on Spotify. Follow Studio Symoné on Instagram.

#nowusing

Piú Mas Sleep Ritual Dry Oil ($39)

Unique fragrance and formula. This product is exceptional, and I promise you’ll see the girls hyping it soon, which is why I’ve got a code for you now. Promo: SSGIRL

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ILY (maybe),

@darian

I really like the tools on Substack, and I will use the platform for their editorial tools, but I don’t need the subscription option based on my experiences with it. It’s not an answer or solution to current media models for me. For others it is, and I think that’s bomb. The concept of doing more work via perks and tiers to justify why one should sign up hasn’t worked for me. I am standing on: the work is the work. The work is what you are paying for, the work is what I hope to produce. “Hope” is actually a very… light word to describe how I feel. In all honesty, I am very desperately want to make things! Let’s circle back to the mutual understanding that’s gotten lost among factors we don’t control, such as algorithms and VC money.

At first I thought that I might start making product suggestion posts behind a paywall and keep the beauty news and culture stuff free. I had to ask myself if I felt like keeping that up. Do I care enough? Unsure. So I might change my mind if I find that it suits me. Which is all I ever plan to do on these platforms.

Now let’s talk solutions. For starters, I have a book: Black Icons in Herstory 50 Legendary Women. I am a vendor of this book and people can buy directly from me. So I do have one product, which I think is crucial to have these days. (My feedback to myself is to promote this more.) I started a ticketed, IRL live music and beauty conversation series: SOUND OFF. In addition, I have been thinking up some new ways to source funding for reported stories I want to write. On top of that, it would allow the licensing of my work. I’ve been really hesitant to test it out, it’s really dependent on you all, but one idea has given me no rest, so I may give myself permission to try it out. Real g’s know great ideas come and go every day. We’ll see what sticks. Stay tuned!

September beauty news is almost finished! Just being a rising Virgo with final touches, but this right here was super easy to lay out.

D

So, where have I been?

I wrote a book! Black Icons in Herstory: 50 Legendary Women published in November of 2022. This is the main reason. Research, writing, not psyching myself out, building up the confidence to write it, leaning in when I scribbled a little bit of a brilliant thing. All takes internal work. Honestly, I should have sent a newsletter to promote the book, but I was so overwhelmed. So overwhelmed. I did continue to write, but not as often. Working on the book and numerous projects at once left me burnt out (again), and I wanted to learn if there were other ways I could go about life; not being tired, irritated, and putting a standard of perfection on my work that is actually more destructive than positive. Writing this book really made me come to terms with my ADHD. The mechanisms I was using to bypass my inability to focus were no longer effective. I had to create new ways to do everything differently. It took a lot of work. A lot of staying on the sidelines with patience because my health means more to me than anything. I want to put out amazing work, but I want to take care of myself. Is it possible? This pursuit, I have embarked on with true sincerity.

I don’t imagine a world in which I’ll have my ADHD “figured out” — I just have new tools. I decided that I’m ready to start up my newsletter again because I’ve built a new foundation for myself, and I have a much better idea of what I need to continue creating great work. I mean, there is so much I’ve learned — I’m almost keeping it a little too buttoned up. It’s something I definitely want to be in conversation about, but I’m not interested in creating free labor around the topic in the form of more writing or creating (another) independent podcast, and I think that’s fair. Plus, I’ve spoken on this briefly while at California African American Arts Museum, Los Angeles Public Library, and other places I cannot think of right now. I look forward to writing my next book (I’m curious about what I’ll land on) with even clearer eyes. You can order Black Icons in Herstory through my website.

What else?!

I started Studio Symoné. One lesson related to this newsletter that I will share: the work in beauty and media I seek to do is not work I seek to do alone. I wish to do it with others, to collaborate with other storytellers across all mediums. Social media has bred us to seek attention as individuals. It has taught us that the individual, the influencer, the creator (if you will) is who we should aspire to be. I’ve realized that I would be less tired, less disappointed in “the culture,” less resentful, if I was in community and in collaboration with people whose work spoke to me. It’s one of the reasons I started Studio Symoné. I want to shape an ecosystem of talking about culture and current events through the lens of beauty that involves my work, but also extends beyond me. So when I (re)started this newsletter, I wanted to make sure I had support in doing so — through the editing process, finding stories — things of that nature. Now that I have that, I’m feeling good y’all!

I view Studio Symoné — and therefore newsletter — as an extension of the work I’ve already been doing. This is not “The Studio Symoné “Substack”” (although that sounds cute.) It is simply Studio Symoné. You can still expect beauty news and my POV. Basically, I have given myself my own studio, my own house, my own world, and it’s where I’ll be coming to you from each time you hear from me.  I also needed to give myself time to think through a better, long-term strategy for how I’d like to get paid for my work — and this actually involves not having my payment system connected to any social media platform, including Substack. (In fact, Studio Symoné has a live music and beauty series starting August 17 in NYC! More ticket info below).

I know that I was just talking about how I want to keep this newsletter to beauty and do no more free labor, but I have SO many thoughts, and SO much tea for y’all on the “creator economy” and the media industry. This is NOT what this newsletter is about, and I think I will likely publish short thoughts on threads or Substack Notes or publish posts but not send them to inboxes (I truly do not desire to be an annoying presence in your life, but let me know). However, I have some things I need to say — that should be witnessed, written down, read, and on the mf internet. It is so unfortunate that our internet is currently run by such greedy, incompetent people, mediocre brands, and peddled by people who talk to no end, never know when to stfu, just because they have a mouth. But there is still something we can do about it. As artists, we would be more successful if we sought to collaborate more often with one another, pooled some of that brand money together to create things that these conglomerates wish they were part of. We have to figure something out. 

So, I will be talking about that. And I will definitely be talking about Studio Symoné as I’m in the process of shaping it. I will certainly be sharing my thoughts on subscription and payment, so if this is something you want to be tapped into, make sure your notifications are on, or you download the Substack app.

What else? 

Okay, well, I hosted events, an Instagram trend report with Gen Z, and live talks. I also had the opportunity to take part in some amazing campaigns. Shea Moisture. AT&T. The Culture Creative NYC’s Creative Class. I want to start modeling because I like the idea of being part of a creative process and also learning from everyone on set.

I had to save the best update for last: I cut my hair!

I want to take a nod to you and the gratitude I have for reading and watching my work over the years. Over the past five months, I’ve been reading old beauty trade and lifestyle magazines. It has been such a powerful reminder of the media cycles that lock us into having the same conversations, of the same static narratives that rise to the top like clockwork (kind of like floating garbage in the sea). It distracts us from finding the excellent, fulfilling work by digital journalists and editors, and it’s important to remember this, never forget it, and continue to strengthen our own media literacy versus pointing the finger. I have no issue being the one who reminds you of such.

In the midst of this, and even more so because of it, I do not take your attention for granted. Thank you for engaging with this newsletter and engaging with my work. 

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What’s I have slated for upcoming newsletters and why you should stick around:

• I have something very specific I need to say about Janet Jackson in Poetic Justice.

• I have saved sharing what it felt like to cut my hair for when I finally relaunched my newsletter. 

• I am positive I will have something to say about Barbie, but I am waiting until I finally digest the marketing campaign that I involuntarily yet willingly (???) took part in, without my knowledge. Does anyone else feel the same? LOL.

• Definitely need to write that piece on how much booking a hair appointment has changed.

• They Cloned Tyrone – there is a beauty angle in this Blaxplotation sci-fi film that has my mind running.

  ---

Want to support Studio Symoné? As a subscriber of the newsletter, you are invited to SOUND OFF: Music x Beauty Amplified, a first-of-its-kind live music and beauty conversation series. Studio Symoné & WORD Creative will take over the Sultan Room Rooftop in Brooklyn for a summer night with LADOMINI QUEEN, Dominican recording artist PAMÉ & renowned DJ Quiana Parks. Lisen to Pamé’s music here. Get your ticket.

BEAUTY NEWS

And of course, I could not send this newsletter without some beauty news and long reads to set the tone.

Industry news [brands, celebs in the industry, and corporate stuff]

• Makeup artist Carmon Springs, known for her 40+ year career and work with celebrities including Beyonce and Aretha Franklin, passed away on June 18th at her home in Bahia Brazil. She was 70-years-old. 

• Lashes on a train: London’s public transport received a makeover with Maybelline’s Sky High Mascara in a grand, yet completely fake, digital marketing stunt. I know this was a while ago, but I feel like it’s worth noting because of how viral it became and hot real it looked!

• Speaking of Maybelline… in a perfect collaboration, the brand paired Martha Stewart and Bretman Rock for the cosmetic company’s Falsies Surreal Mascara ad campaign. To me, “perfect collaborations” are like brain benders. They push you to imagine. Perfect collaborations are unexpected, but still find a way to make sense. 

• Following Revlon’s exit from a year-long Chapter 11 bankruptcy battle in May 2023, CEO Debra Perelman has stepped down and the beauty company has named Elizabeth Smith interim CEO.

• MAC is updating its Back-to-MAC program by partnering with Close the Loop North America; which is meant to increase the percentage of returned items that get recycled. 

• Origins has partnered with Erewhon to create a limited-edition pressed juice infused with Origins' signature molecular mushroom complex. Tbh, I am the target audience for this drink. 😂 😵‍💫

• I found this funny: Ultra-fast fashion giant Shein – in the midst of RICO charges and lawsuits – is now being targeted by another widely criticized fast-fashion company, H&M, for copyright infringement.

• Fans are joining a waitlist to purchase Beyoncé’s newest Eau De Parfum dropping this November.

• In a $15 million book deal, Britney Spears’ memoir, The Woman in Me, is set to release on October 24. Also, Spears is supposed to release her thirty-second fragrance since 2004, “Jungle Fantasy,” this summer.

• Ms. Kim K wants to expand SKKN, starting with buying back a minority stake from beauty company Coty.

• Her sister, model Kendall Jenner, joins the “L’Oreal Paris family” after the cosmetics brand named the model their new global ambassador.

• After the fashion company’s co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons signed a deal with beauty company L’Oreal in 2021, Prada make-up and skincare is finally on the way and will launch online this August. Lynsey Alexander is serving as  Global Creative Makeup Artist, and E-makeup artist ines.alpha is also involved on the digital side.

• Tracee Ellis Ross’ hair-care brand Pattern Beauty is expanding distribution directly to stylists in professional salons.

• Sean ‘Diddy’ Combs launched an online marketplace for Black-owned businesses called Empower Global, providing a space for beauty brands – including Marie Hunter Beauty, Beauty Stat Cosmetics, and Buttah Skin – to expand. Also, if I’m going to talk about this, I need to share with you two women who I’ve watched build retail space for Black-owned beauty brands: Leslie Roberson of Black Beauty Collective and Nyakio Grieco of Thirteen Lune. Check out who may be creating physical retail space for Black and BIPOC businesses in your town.

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Pop culture [music, politics, voices, sports]

• Adjoah B. Asomah, co-founder of the CROWN Act and lead legislative strategist, plans to reintroduce the bill federally this fall with an amendment that still upholds the foundation of the bill. I thought this quote was something to note:

"This is not about culture. This is not about hair color. This is not about wearing a headwrap. The CROWN Act specifically and explicitly amends the existing definition of race to include those traits historically associated with it, such as hair texture and protective styles like locs, braids, twists, bantu knots, et cetera," Asamoah told Fashionista. "I have to sometimes fight against misinformation because some people think that the CROWN Act is about headwraps or durags."

• Natural hair stylists in Louisiana are criticizing a state law that declares braiders must undergo 500 hours of training and receive an alternative hair design permit in order to legally perform services.

• Taliban-ruled Afghanistan continues its curtailment of women’s rights as beauty salons are ordered to close their doors. BBC News South Asia & Afghanistan Correspondent Yogita Limaye talks about her experience being in one of these salons. It’s easy to understand why the Taliban wants to continue to close places where women can gather, talk, exchange information, and hold on to hope together (which Limaye talks about in her video report.)

• Following Mielle’s announcement of a partnership with LSU’s Angel Reese, the WNBA announced their multi-year partnership with the Black woman-owned hair care brand.

• LVMH scored a major sponsorship deal for the 2024 Paris Olympic Games earning its subsidiary retailer, Sephora, a partnership for the Olympic torch relay.

• Estée Lauder’s recent collaboration with British football club Manchester United aims to bring in engagement with the team’s fanbase in the Asia Pacific region. 

• SheaMoisture has teamed up with the Roku Channel and MACRO Television Studios to showcase the winners of the personal care brand’s Next Black Millionaires program now available on the Roku Channel:  LaToya Stirrup founder of KAZMALEJE, Neil Hudson, Scotch Boyz, and Dorian Morris, founder of  Undefined Beauty.

• Bella Hadid, model and patron angel saint of pop culture, says she is ‘finally healthy’ after suffering silently from Lyme Disease for 15 years. Wow. Here is one of my favorite Bella Hadid videos. That girl has thoughts. Love that.

MEDIA READS

Beauty, pop culture and politics reads. This is probably the section I missed the most. 

Welcome to the Golden Age of Nail Art — Arabelle Sicardi 

Who Will Stand Up For The Hair Braiders? — Houreidja Tall

Have You Ever Wondered Where Spa Music Comes From? – Marci Robin

How Impressions Of Beauty Helps Turn HBCU Students Into Effective Influencers And Works With Brands – Robin Mosley

Hollywood Hairstylists & Makeup Artists Aren’t On Strike, But They’re Fighting For Change Anyway — Kirbie Johnson

In Brazil, Beauty Is A Right. Are They On To Something? — Sushma Subramanian 

I Wish More People Talked About Inverted Nipples, So I’m Sharing My Corrective Surgery Story — Hannah Baxter

The Future Of Dermatology Is Intertwined With Beauty And Aesthetics — Elise Minton Tabin 

How Hair And Makeup Artist Ivana Primorac Brought ‘Barbie’ To Life — Ariana Yaptangco

‘Injectable Moisturizers’ Are The Next Big Game Changers In Aesthetics — Polly Blitzer 

Bra Line Back Lifts Are Blowing Up On TikTok. Here’s What Doctors Want You To Know. — Michelle Rostamian

Everything To Know About Mastectomy Scarring — Zahra Spencer

The Phenomenon of Hair-Salon “Deserts” — And How It Impacts Black Women – Natasha Marsh

Why Does Everybody Want A Lazy Girl Job? — Darshita Goyal

This Salon Works to Understand Black Hair — Jordyn Holman

The Loneliness of Living With Acne Inversa —  Amanda Mitchell

TikTok Diet Culture’s Unhealthy Obsession With Protein — Laura Pitcher 

How Private Equity is Remaking Beauty Manufacturing — Rachel Brown 

From Taylor Swift to Beyoncé, Concerts Are Turning Into Something New 

— Elamin Abdelmahmoud

This edition is a look at 2021, but I will leave you with one trend you'll see more of in 2022 (and beyond) if you're not already: beauty news. You will continue to see more podcasts including "beauty news segments," more beauty news programming across digital platforms, more infographics that outline beauty news on social media, and more publications realizing that they can cover beauty in far more expansive (and interesting) ways that speak to our human condition versus the popularity of a haircare line pitched by their friend at that PR agency. The good part is that you will see more beauty news coverage from me too, far (far) beyond Substack. The moment I realized I could be more than a reporter, was also the day I realized I didn’t have to be broke while doing what I do. So I’ve been setting my long-term sites on that.

There are so many topics I don't write about because I know that in about 3-4 months, an editor will eventually catch on and commission it. Then, I get to put it in the Media Drops section of this newsletter. I mostly shy away from writing for other publications (although I've been fortunate to write for many editors that I respect and trust), and giving away my brain trust because if I'm going to write for wages that make me feel as though I am writing for free anyway, I might as well do it for this newsletter — one that I make very little off of, too. I’ve made a total of $6,363 since I started this Substack newsletter in July of 2020. If that's the case, I might as well own all of the rights to my work and intellectual property, which I do on this platform.

I don't own beauty news by any stretch of the imagination. However, I do recognize that my work serves as a reference for others in beauty and culture, plus investors. I do believe that by nature of being me, and owning all of my uniqueness and intricacies, I make it special. That's invaluable and influential, and can't be taken from me. I won’t deprive myself of recognizing any of this. I cover beauty from my lens, one that becomes more expansive by the day. I ask that you continue to push me to think further. 

Thanks for reading. I don't mean to center myself, but I do mean to document all of this publicly because the last thing I’ll be out here looking like is a clown when we all see beauty news taken more seriously in broader culture conversations (especially when I know everyone’s next steps before they do.) Onward.

- Darian

Watch this special I hosted for Instagram’s 2021 Trend Report!

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BEAUTY IRL covers beauty news at the intersection of politics, pop culture, including wellness, self-care, spirituality, athletes, tech, internet culture, gender, sexuality, and music. It was curated with this framing in mind. We categorize and highlight one big story and list a few in bullet points. We conclude by highlighting our favorite beauty artists of 2021!

A special thanks to my former intern Isabel Bekele for partnering with me to write this newsletter.

Read on Substack

POLITICS

Policies, laws, and social justice movements that impacted the corporate beauty industry and local businesses.

#StopAsianHate

Stop Asian Hate was sparked in response to racist attacks against Asians in the midst of COVID-19. It was a particular moment of conversation within the beauty industry because of the contributions that Asian beauty rituals — from K-Beauty to J-Beauty and beyond — have made to the beauty world. The appeal of these customs has been marketed and perfectly packaged. We’ve seen new brands take off (some Asian owned, some not) under the guise of customs that originated from Asia. We’ve also seen established brands profit from Asian-inspired beauty rituals and marketing strategies. This moment served as a time for Asian people within beauty to speak for themselves; to tell their own stories and to vocalize how they’ve been treated not only by those in beauty, but within the larger communities they navigate every day. In a beautiful tribute, Byrdie spoke to 23 Asian American editors and influencers on ‘’representation, pride, and self-love,’’ which you can read here.

• In a major mishap this year, Citigroup was denied repayment after accidentally wiring an extra $900 million, instead of an intended small interest payment, to Revlon last year. This year a judge ruled that Revlon gets to keep the money, but an appeal by Citigroup is likely. 

• This summer, the Biden administration, in partnership with UMD, launched their Shots at the Shop initiative in an effort to bring vaccine awareness and implementation to Black communities. As part of the initiative, Shea Moisture launched a $1 million fund to help train more barbershops and salons as public health advocates. I spoke to Dr. Anthony Fauci about the initiative for Refinery29 here.

  • Also: Olivia Rodrigo released her debut album Sour and became officially the most popular teen among us. Therefore, it only made sense she was called on by the White House (in Chanel) to talk with Dr. Fauci and President Biden about getting young people vaccinated. 

• The CROWN act, a law that prohibits race-based hair discrimination, was approved in several new states this year, including Connecticut, New Mexico, Delaware, and Nebraska. 

• Animal testing developments: Here is where we’re at

  • Mexico became the first country in North America to prohibit the use of animal testing for cosmetic products. 

  • Over 400 beauty brands and companies are asking the EU to uphold animal testing bans as the REACH Regulation threatened current regulations as they stand. 

  • After leaving the EU, the UK considered animal testing for the first time since 1998.

  • Virginia banned animal testing in the state.

BODY IMAGE & BEAUTY STANDARDS

Both are constantly shifting like a moving target. Here are a few we saw. 

The BBL

The rise of discussion around Brazilian butt lifts, quite frankly, could have gone under any of these categories. Ultimately, in 2021 we saw the height of both its popularity and its questioning. TikTok completely exposed the process behind the surgical procedure, whether from the patient’s perspective or their BBF taking care of them. The #BBLeffect trend made it more than a procedure but a mindset and an archetype, one that was also inspired by the Kardashians and the Insta-baddies. With this also came the popularization of fashion literally made for the BBL body. There has been a 77.6% rise of BBLs since 2015, according to a survey done by the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Now, it’s impossible to talk about BBLs without examining health concerns, and blackfishing. This recent article by i-D on the supposed end of the BBL era tackles all three. 

• After previously facing allegations that they promoted stereotypes around dark skin tones, Unilever, who owns Dove, dropped the word ‘’normal’’ from its beauty products and banned excessive editing of models’ photos in an effort to create inclusivity.

• In a major policy decision by a large social platform, Pinterest banned all weight-loss ads on its platform.

VOICES

Folks that used beauty and their bodies to make political statements or spur wider conversations.

Athletes

Athletes are the beauty influencers of 2021. Several Black women, most notably Sha’Carri Richardson, Naomi Osaka, and Simon Biles, took the center stage of conversation in the sports world and made bold moves to claim their own agency in a world that views them, both as women of color and athletes, as a commodity. Gymnast Sunisa Lee of Team USA won the women's individual all-around gold medal — and became the first Hmong-American to compete in the Olympics — all while wearing white acrylic nails with a nod to the Olympic rings. South African runner Caster Semenya continued to speak out after her denial of a spot in the 2020 Olympics. Throughout 2020 and 2021, we saw the women of the WNBA gain more recognition for their activism around women’s rights, abortion, racism, LGBTQ rights, and voting rights. By nature of their careers, athletes use their bodies to make statements. This year, their decisions on and off the courts shifted perspectives on mental health and gender in a serious way, and deserve recognition for it.

• Indya Moore: Actor and model Indya Moore often addressed their fashion and beauty choices on Instagram, in tandem with their own spiritual journey as a trans, non-binary person. Moore’s insistence on showing up as themselves made them a social justice activist, and I would also say, an image activist – a term originally coined by Michaela Angela Davis.

• Jillian Mercado: Actor and disability advocate Jillian Mercado made history for starring in one of TV history’s very few sex scenes involving a disabled person on “The L Word: Generation Q,” also featuring Leo Shang.  

• Chloe Bailey: I felt like we all watched Chloe Bailey blossom this year, because she made the choice to share vulnerable moments from her bedroom, all during the rise of her stardom, around body confidence. What I loved the most is that it wasn’t about whether we approved or not. Read Chloe Bailey Is Doing More Than "Tearing Up"

• Charlotte Parlermino: Parlermino’s experience as a beauty brand founder, licensed esthetician, and writer – along with the crucial fact that she is very good at TikTok – made her one of the most influential voices in skincare education this year. I once walked into a facial and was asked if I followed Parlermino and also did slugging. I was not mad!

• James Charles: Being a voice does not always mean you were an enjoyable one. Because his platform is huge, James Charles was a voice we could not escape in 2021. After allegations of inappropriate relationships with minors surfaced, YouTube demonetized his channel. He also used Twitter to tussle feathers and add his opinion to topics no one asked him about.

• Sports Illustrated had two historic covers this year, both with Leyna Bloom, the first trans woman to appear on the cover, and Megan Thee Stallion, the first rapper to be featured.

• Voices we lost this year:

  • We said goodbye to the iconic actress Cicely Tyson, whose career spanned 70 years. She will always be known for sparking a natural hair movement in the 60s as an acting and natural hair pioneer. 

  • Bell Hooks. Simply put: Hooks wrote about beauty in the ways I like to think about it and view it. She stretched us all. 

  • We tragically lost Ma’Khia Bryant, a sixteen-year-old girl from Ohio who was fatally shot by a police officer. Some of the memories we now know her by are grainy hair tutorials. Read Watching Ma’Khia Bryant Online

  • In an unexpected death that moved the fashion world, we lost designer Virgil Abloh to a private battle with cancer. Abloh was a visionary who superseded any one title. He deeply understood that making community was the cornerstone of culture. Beautiful clothes, music, and design were simply his medium.

  • We also lost beauty influencer and Youtuber Mel Thompson who passed at 35 due to a medical condition known as Ehlers-Danlos syndrome.

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VIRAL MOMENTS

Beauty on the internet existed outside of the jaw-dropping makeup transformations that went viral. 

The Gorilla Glue Fiasco

Tessica Brown, otherwise known as Gorilla Glue Girl, is an interesting case study in virality. In January, Brown had run out of the hairspray she used to slick back her ponytail, and in a hasty moment of desperation, decided to use Gorilla Glue instead. After coming to the water hole, AKA TikTok, to warn others not to make the same mistake, Brown amassed over 37 million views, plenty of unsuccessful tips, and of course the internet’s favorite game: ridicule. Her fame landed her a manager, a merch line, a haircare line, a song, and most importantly, a free surgery in Beverly Hills to remove the glue. Despite all this, Brown says she wishes she had never posted that video, and doesn’t like the name ‘Gorilla Glue Girl’, especially because of its effects on her children. — Isabel

People were so eager for updates on Brown in the moment that I built a live page on Substack. Brown’s situation spurred much debate. I think that’s because it was a look at our own insecurities, and the pressure that a style with no hair out of place, has driven us to, as well. Maybe it wasn’t Gorilla Glue, but a tightly wrapped scarf that caused a headache, or whatever lengths we have gone to for a perfectly slicked back ponytail. — Darian

• In the fashion magazine fumble of the year, many were unhappy with Vogue’s lackluster cover of Vice President Kamala Harris. Rather than reflecting the power of her position it came off as overly casual and undone. Though Harris’ team declined to respond, Vogue did to the NYT. I loved this criticism from Washing Post critic Robin Givhan. In a past newsletter I said: “the way Black women are covered in the media needs to be examined rigorously, and often.” (and I stand by it.)

• Even though it feels like forever ago, yes, the inauguration was this year, and yes, Michelle Obama’s bouncy blowout did win it. Also, shout out to her stylist Yene Damtew - I love to see fellow Ethiopians winning! — Isabel

• This year, Black designer Kerby Jean-Raymond made history by holding the fashion show for his couture line Pyer Moss at the home of the late Madam C.J. Walker, the iconic beauty entrepreneur of the 1900’s, whose home hosted the likes of Zora Neale Hurston and Langston Hughes.

• Material Girlllllllll! Saucy Santana’s viral hit turned Tik Tok sound was used this year for people to flaunt their affinity for the finer things in life. But this trend, was also about class and the millennial condition. Having $65,000 in student loan debt, 5 Telfars, an air fryer, a great entry-level job at Google, and an apartment shared with 4 roommates. None of it makes sense but it’s my life, so I’m going to enjoy the little things.

CONVERSATIONS

Conversations that spoke to our values and perspectives. 

Red Table Talk

Red Table Talk facilitated the best beauty, pop culture, politics, wellness conversations of the year because they were complex, complicated, honest and there were no winners — just perspectives and lived experiences. Hosts Jada Pinkett Smith, Adrienne “Gammy” Banfield-Norris, and Willow Smith talked about gut health, the dangers of BBLs, the freedom of going bald, wellness with Queen Afua, sex with Gwenyth Paltrow, and polyamory, all in 2021. Watch season 4 and/or read my NYT profile on Banfield-Norris, We All Need a Gammy in Our Lives Right Now

• Sunscreen was the beauty topic of conversation this year, with a push to… use it. “Sunscreen has turned into more than just a required step for healthy skin. It’s now seen as the required elements of a healthy lifestyle.” Read the rest: Beauty’s Latest Villain: Sunscreen

• The Cutting Room Floor + Man Repeller: Recho Omondi, designer and podcast host, held a viral conversation with former Man Repeller founder Leandra Medine Cohen in what became one of the most fascinating conversations of the year.

• Monique & bonnets: internet auntie Mo’Nique took to Instagram to share some unsolicited advice, and chastised women for leaving the house in bonnets and sleepwear, leading to both praise and backlash. Read my story for Allure: Let Black Women Wear Their Bonnets Whenever They Want

• The QAnon conspiracy theories divided the wellness community this year.

HOLLYWOOD

Beauty and images that also made a statement, spoke to an era, sparked controversy, or symbolized change. (Impossible to include them all, but here are a few!)

South Korea’s Hallyuwood

I thought the explosion of popularity we saw around South Korean films and television in the U.S. brought up feelings around why, specifically in the U.S., it took us so long to embrace the industry and to understand that “the Korean screen industry is very diverse,” as Dr. Brain director Kim Jee-woon puts it. On TikTok, Squid Game-inspired makeup took off and the show also exposed us to more Korean beauty trends. It’s easier, now more than ever, to see how racist Hollywood standards have kept global stories from reaching success in the U.S., and why #OscarsSoWhite is not only about Black representation, but global representation. My hope is that we all become more comfortable seeing ourselves in stories where our skin color or customs aren’t directly reflected back to us.

• Mia Neal and Jamika Wilson, the stylists of ‘’Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom,’’ made history when they became the first Black women to be nominated for an Academy Award in the hairstyle and makeup category.

• The Met Gala attracted some controversial looks this year, but actress Yara Shahidi stood out in her pin curls and strapless dress, paying homage to activist Josephine Baker. And AOC’s “Tax The Rich,” dress, designed by creator of the 15% Pledge Aurora James, certainly took the conversation cake. 

• 2021 beauty moments in TV

  • Insecure ends: The costuming (fashion!!!), music, cinematography, and plots rooted in Black L.A. made Insecure a family affair on Twitter. Not to mention, natural hairstyles were at the forefront of the show.

  • Legendary: The HBO Max voguing competition was a masterclass on what it takes to pull off a look if you want to compete in the ballroom scene. Read this interview with head of makeup La Sonya Gunter.

  • Ziwe: Comedian Ziwe Fumudoh got her own show on Showtime this year, in which she interviews different pop culture personalities and teeters the line between entertainment and discomfort. A stand out was her ‘Beauty Standards’ episode, where she spoke with RHONY’s Eboni K. Williams about the topic and interracial dating with Rachel Lindsay of The Bachelor. 

  • Nine Perfect Strangers: If there’s one thing Nicole Kidman is going to do, it’s kill the role of a mysterious, slightly suspicious white lady. The series follows a group who have been led to believe they’re going on a wellness retreat. In reality, they end up being drugged as a part of an experiential plan. Think a cross between The White Lotus, Get Out, and… Goop? It’s an especially interesting watch when considering the rise of conspiracy in the wellness space this year.

  • Sex Education: Season 3 of Sex Education spurred conversation this year as one of the only shows to actually show dimensional disabled characters- specifically in their sex scenes with disabled actor George Robinson, who plays Isaac. 

  • Sexy Beasts: This Netflix dating series centered around prosthetics makeup pushed those involved to look beyond… looks. 

• 2021 beauty moments in film

  • House of Gucci: the long-awaited film on the infamous fashion house was released to mixed reviews this year, but it’s worth checking out to see Lady Gaga portray the campy fashion and beauty of the 60’s.

  • In The Heights: this film by Hamilton creator Lin Manuel Miranda brought up conversations about colorism in the Latinx community because it barely featured any Afro Latinos. 

  • Last Night in Soho: another film that pays homage to 60’s fashion and beauty looks, but this time portrayed by Thomasin McKenzie (from The Queen’s Gambit) as a fashion student in Soho, London.

MUSIC VIDEOS

Examining both symbolism and beauty in a genre female artists dominated.

Cardi B

Cardi B is always a reminder that beauty is grueling work. In no Cardi video — whether it be her song or a feature — is the hair, makeup, and nails an afterthought or secondary to the fashion. They were just as detailed, and as much of the main attraction, as her costuming. In “Up,” each scene feels like a new art direction that in and of itself requiresd new nail color or adornments, a new wig (like talking dolls heads), and a new eyeshadow design. She often documented this work through the BTS videos she’s released with some of her videos. In Lizzo’s hit song “Rumors,” we see a pregnant Cardi. Lizzo wears a hair full of braids, 43 1/2 feet long according to hairstylist Shelby Swain who stated it took “80 hours, 400 packs of Kanekalon, 17 of LA’s finest braiders.” In “Wild Side” with Normani, Cardi is butt naked, and the nails are the main attraction. Ultimately I think we’ll look back and remember how Cardi took the relevancy of music videos to task, along with her collaborators. We’ll say that she set a new precedent for beauty and fashion through music videos.

• “Peng Black Girls” by ENNY feat. Amia Brave: An ode to the beauty of Black women, particularly dark skin women, featuring UK rapper ENNY’s Nigerian family. 

• “Woman” by Doja Cat: Two words: Feminine Divine. Ultimately Doja takes on the portrayal of different goddesses and spirits that represent the feminine divine in goddess form.

• “Linda” by Tokicsha x Rosalia. With an opening scene in the beauty salon, and the visibility of women AND femmes in this video makes it *chef’s kiss* and lyrics dripping in bi sexuality, or just the “hetero” girl kissing her homie. 

• “MONTERO” (Call Me By Your Name) by Lil Nas X. It was hard to choose which Lil Nas video should take the cake; his entire existence as an openly gay Black pop star makes him political and bombshell to queer folks who have never felt they could fully be themselves in front of others. But the top choice is MONTERO; a fantasy world where Lil Nas X is fit to be himself, and takes on multiple personalities through hair and costuming, including a demon with red hot cornrows. #lol

• “Way 2 Sexy” by Drake ft Future: These two are known to love playing dress-up with each other when they collaborate. This time men of different eras and situations; Backstreet Boys, Prince, Michael Jackson, and even Rambo. And I have to find a way to address Drake’s menace of a haircut: the heart shape line up. 

• "I am not a woman, I'm a god" by Halsey: Halsey, who also has a makeup line, released their fourth album, ‘If I Can’t Have Love, I Want Power’ and addresses “the idea that me as a sexual being and my body as a vessel and gift to my child are two concepts that can co-exist peacefully and powerfully.” Their album art was revealed at The Met in New York City and depicts them in medieval clothing, a theme tied to Halsey’s depiction of the Madonna and Child.

• Notable mention: Glossier’s product placement on the Instagram live battle series Verzuz. ReadGlossier Keeps Popping Up in Black Cultural Spaces

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TECH

2021 brought plenty of crossovers in the beauty and tech space. Here are the highlights.

The modern QVC(s)?

In 2021, big tech wants a slice of the merchandising pie. Companies like Youtube, Amazon, Facebook, and IG (and Meta at large) all took to their own versions of live shopping streaming events, often with the help of the creators on these platforms.

• Gaming:

  • E.L.F became the first beauty company to launch its own branded channel on the gaming platform Twitch. 

  • Girlgamer, the Twitch channel for women’s esports festival, broadcasted a Charlotte Tilbury beauty tutorial.

  • NYX became the official beauty partner of esports organization Dignitas.

• Crypto:

  • Givenchy Parfums launched an NFT in support of the LGBTQIA+ cause.

  • E.LF. turned their best selling products into NFTs that customers could purchase on the crypto platform Bitski.

  • Tik Tok announced they’re going to start selling top viral videos for NFTs.

  • This year, I put an NFT behind my Twitter thread of Black girls in front of the Mona Lisa, which is all about beauty and representation. You can check out the story behind the NFT here.

• Innovation:

  • Dermalogica built a virtual reality (VR) e-commerce storefront, using it to showcase its newest products. 

  • LVMH teamed up with Google Cloud to develop new cloud artificial intelligence solutions that will help with trend forecasting.

  • Pinterest created a hair pattern search tool that enables users to refine hair searches by 6 different hair patterns: protective, coily, curly, wavy, straight, and shaved/bald.

INDUSTRY SHIFTS

Some topline industry news to take note of.

Beautycon

Essence Ventures acquired Beautycon Media out of foreclosure. We didn’t really talk about the fact that Beautycon disappeared. Ticket holders were refunded, but not without hiccups, and there was no official statement that Beautycon wasn’t taking place in 2020. We didn’t hear a true update until it was announced in September of 2021 that Essence Ventures acquired Beautycon. Its continuation is a big deal because in the midst of all of the drama, questions, and former employees and businesses that were emotionally and financially harmed by the company, this fact stands: Beautycon is an important, diverse space. It’s a place (outside of award shows) you’ll see A-list celebs, pop stars, and beauty influencers rubbing shoulders in one place. It speaks to the nature of beauty and culture. So I am really happy to know it will continue in some way.

• Sephora in Kohl’s, Thirteen Lune in J.C. Penney, and Ulta in Target; we saw beauty retailers introduced into spaces, or do musical chairs. 

• Beauty enters streetwear: If you read BEAUTY IRL in 2021, you know this was a big one. Megan Thee Stallion x Revlon on Stock X, about-face x Dickies, KNC x Bathing Ape, Florence by Mills x Converse sneakers, the list truly goes on. 

• Major Acquisitions & Closures

  • Becca Cosmetics is out of business, but Smashbox will continue two of its iconic products.

  • Estee Lauder increased its ownership in Deciem.

  • Oreveon acquires BareMinerals, Laura Mercier, and Buxom from Shiseido.

BEAUTY IRL’s Favorite Beauty Artists of 2021

(who are also part of the BEAUTY IRL community)

HAIR: Naeema Lafond, whose continued creativity and imagination kept us at the edges of our seats.

NAILS: Gracie J, for her innovation with TENX press-on nails and maintenance kit, plus clever content that kept us guessing (and laughing).

MAKE UP: Michela Wariebi, for being a needed voice of reason in the debate around beauty artists and their rates.

ABOUT DARIAN: This newsletter is written by Darian Symoné Harvin. Darian is a multimedia beauty reporter and social media editor using her journalism and curatorial skills to craft narratives and distinct takes on beauty, pop culture, and the intersection of both. So far, her career has been dedicated to working on thoughtful and viral ways to present news and content to people on the internet and IRL, for platforms like BuzzFeed News, Yahoo News, NBC News, and Vox.com. Darian wants to use her love and curiosity for beauty to tell stories. She currently writes for the New York Times, Refinery29, TeenVogue, and The Cut. You can find more of her work here.

A few months ago, I decided I’d put an NFT behind my most viral and impactful tweet.

In February of 2019, I tweeted a photo of myself standing in front of the Mona Lisa and asked other Black women to join me. The response was resounding. I did not expect it, but I should have. In a mix of photos and written stories and artwork, it garnered over 10,000 responses. The tweet was also covered by BuzzFeed and Refinery29. To this day, women continue to add their photos.

This thread holds my story and so many others. I want to continue them by backing this tweet with an NFT so that I can do more than send tweets, but transform some of the takeaways I’ve learned throughout my career on the internet into creating more moments, media, and storytelling that I want to see out in the world.

In the spirit of the tweet, a percentage of the money will be used to create a fund in which Black women and Black femmes can apply to have their U.S. passport fee or passport renewal fee paid for. Yes, COVID-19 has caused passport delays and that’s exactly why you should get yours.

Lastly, for the last 24 hours of the auction, I’ll be on Clubhouse with friends ‘til the very end. There will be talks, DJ sets, meditation sessions, all centered around beauty, tech, entrepreneurship, the internet, media, pop culture, and politics. And of course, a Beauty Headlines news special. Check my Instagram for the detailed schedule dropping soon. Set a calendar reminder. The room begins on Wednesday, November 3rd at 9 am PT/ 12 pm ET.

You can learn more about the true essence of NFTs, the tweet, and my story at studiosymone.com.

Bid

We’re coming off the heels of Halloween, and everyone went all out. You’ve seen the looks.

But this… this hit home. Remember that time I covered the Gorilla Glue fiasco with live updates? These costumes are giving… #triggered!

And other:

The News

• Last week, Mark Zuckerberg appeared in a virtual universe and announced Facebook’s new name: Meta. The technology giant must understand the benefits of associating their new image with a Black, successful businesswoman and creator in beauty because they displayed the commerce aspect of Meta with Jackie Aina.

  • Aina didn’t post to her Instagram, Twitter, or Facebook page about her appearance (except for a repost from a fan page on her outfit). Rather, the videos are posted on socials of the Metaverse’s Vice President Vishal Shah. They toured a virtual universe where her candles would be sold. Facebook may have a new name, but its issues remain. In addition to the announcement of Meta last week, we continued to learn more about the inner workings of Facebook’s biggest mistakes through the Facebook papers. Here are two pieces that have helped me understand what. is. going. on.:

    • Eight Things We Learned From the Facebook Papers

    • The Metaverse Is Mark Zuckerberg’s Escape Hatch

• During his Rock and Roll Hall of Fame induction speech on Saturday, Jay-Z joked about having to go to court on Monday. A day ahead, he was already seen testifying in court. Mr. Carter is being sued for unfulfilled promises that involve a line of perfumes with his name. Questioned by Parlux Fragrances’s lawyer he was mostly grilled on marketing and promotion under a 2012 agreement. “I’m sure my lawyers outlined the details.” He must smell amazing.

  • Speaking of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, Tina Turner was inducted as a solo artist. I’ve written about why she’s my personal beauty icon for ELLE.

• LTL Management, a newly created and separate subsidiary formed by Johnson & Johnson to hold and manage claims in its cosmetic talc litigation, has filed for bankruptcy. This comes as no surprise. This was the plan, and it’s happening. According to CBS, the move could stall settlements for thousands of families. I’ll continue to keep yall updated on this story.

• Procter & Gamble will increase the prices of some of its skincare, grooming, and oralcare products in the U.S. to counter the costs of a failing supply chain. What’s up with the supply chain, anyway? Beauty Independent explains.

• Dubai-based beauty brand Huda Beauty has settled a court battle for ‘unlawfully’ labeling its Neon Obsessions palette after it was accused by U.S. consumers of “falsely advertising the sku for use in the eye area and failing to disclose material information about the products.”

  • The court didn’t decide if the brand was to blame, but both parties have agreed to offer purchasers of Neon Obsessions a full refund of $29 for each product, or $87 with proof of purchase.

• Sephora launched its same-day delivery service that arrived within 2 hours for a fee of $6.95.

• Asos will offer its staff flexible working and paid leave during menopause.

• Why does Aesop always do dope sh*t? The brand has teamed up with the Worldwide FM platform to launch ‘Heart notes Radio’ a series of broadcasts to promote its new collection of eau de parfums, Othertopias.

• California has legalized the selling of CBD edibles and smokable hemp. From Cannabis Now:

The bill also establishes regulations for hemp products including CBD edibles, supplements, and pet foods, as well as smokable hemp and other inhalable forms of the crop.

• Kendra Bracken-Ferguson has launched Founders Studio, a branch of BrainTrust, her digital marketing agency. “The Studio has valued the mentorship opportunities and access to capital offered by its corporate partners at around $100 million,” according to Business of Fashion. So far, 25 Black-owned beauty brands have been selected.

• Qwo, the first FDA-approved injectable for cellulite, is here. It appears the FDA approved Qwo in July of 2020, but now it’s widely available. Here’s what you need to know.

• Birchbox has been acquired by the new fem-care startup FemTec for more than $45 million. It is a company backed by Estée Lauder, Walgreens, and Unilever.

“The company will begin asking its 300,000-plus subscribers to share personal health information — collecting data through skin tests, for instance — and using it to zero in on relevant skincare, supplements and other products, like birth control or pregnancy tests.” — Forbes

• Cantu Beauty and UNCF (United Negro College Fund) have banded together to invest $150,000 into nontraditional college students. Think: students who have had to delay enrollment, work full time, or go to school part-time. Fifteen $5,000 scholarships will be awarded to those who take part in the career-readiness sessions.

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Collabz & Celebz, ranked from most interesting to “why are you making us go through this?”

• Actor, Youtuber, and artist Chella Man is the first transmasculine face of YSL Beauty:

• Nia Long appears as a therapist in the latest Old Bay commercial. LOL. I loved her interview on it with Essence. Also seen is actor Deon Cole, who seems to have a partnership with the men’s care line.

• Billie Eilish announced the creation of her first perfume, Eilish.

• Lori Harvey’s skincare line, SKN by LH, has launched.

• Dior has named actress Anya Taylor-Joy as its women’s fashion and make-up ambassador. Which should come as no surprise! She’d been dripped in Dior all season.

• Ellen Degeneres has launched her skincare line, Kind Science.

• The NBA now has an eyeshadow line through ColourPop featuring popular teams like The Lakers, Chicago Bulls, and The Celtics.

  • I understand all of the marketing reasons why this makes sense, but it still kind of annoys me. Ha 😅. It led me straight to think about how impactful the women of the WNBA have been the past few years. How they’ve put their careers, money, and livelihoods on the line to stand up against police brutality, abortion, voting rights and also themselves. Women athletes have proven to be among the true faces of beauty. If a brand doesn’t have enough sauce to honor that, 🤷🏾‍♀️. But! The makeup will sell. It’s a very event-driven palette that people might wear to games or get-togethers.

Book Drops

Dermalogica Founder Jane Wurwand’s book is here: Skin in the Game: Everything You Need is Already Inside You

Award-winning reporter Zara Stone has released her latest book: Killer Looks: The Forgotten History of Plastic Surgery in Prisons.

ICYMI: Photographer St. Clair Detrick-Jules’ art book, My Beautiful Black Hair: 101 Natural Hair Stories from the Sisterhood, was released in late September.

Media Drops

Mickalene Thomas Is Reinventing Nudes — Angela Flournoy

Censorship of Marginalized Communities on Instagram, 2021 — Salty in partnership with the University of Michigan [research study]

Emily Ratajkowski’s New Book Tests The Limits Of Self-Awareness — Scaachi Koul

The Bizarre and Unsettling Rise of True-Crime Makeup Videos on YouTube and TikTok — Hannah Jackson

Latina Entrepreneurs Are Forcing Beauty Giants to Pay Attention — Daniela Sirtori-Cortina

What Does Mindfulness With Plants Look Like? Justina Blakeney Can Show You the Way — Siena Giljum

The Morbid Appeal of “Botched” Plastic Surgery — Terry Nguyen

Brené Brown’s Empire Of Emotion — Sarah Larson

Katie Couric Is Not for Everyone — Rebecca Traister

What Companies Behind The Scenes In Beauty Believe Will Be Big In 2022 — Rachel Brown

“What would it mean to return to my homeland as a very openly genderqueer adult?” — Yas Necati

ABOUT DARIAN: This newsletter is written by Darian Symoné Harvin. Darian is a multimedia beauty reporter and social media editor using her journalism and curatorial skills to craft narratives and distinct takes on beauty, pop culture, and the intersection of both. So far, her career has been dedicated to working on thoughtful and viral ways to present news and content to people on the internet and IRL, for platforms like BuzzFeed News, Yahoo News, NBC News, and Vox.com. Darian wants to use her love and curiosity for beauty to tell stories. She currently writes for the New York Times, Refinery29, TeenVogue, and The Cut. You can find more of her work here.

My favorite photo, currently:

For Los Angeles Times’ Image magazine, I talk about my sideburns, and maybe yours too. In its latest installment, “Reverence,” the magazine explores how the city does beauty.

NEWS THIS WEEK

• Breaking 🚨 The labor union IATSE, which includes hairstylists, makeup artists, and customers, just announced that it would begin a nationwide strike on Monday if talks with the trade association AMPTP continued to be stalled. Here’s an interview with Spring Super, a New York-based makeup artist and member of IATSE Local 798:

* IATSE = International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees

* AMPTP = Alliance of Motion Picture and Television Producers

It definitely feels like a new moment. The conversations on set and over social media are so different. That Instagram account @IA_stories has been huge because it helped tie us together. In our departments we’re in different roles, with different rates of pay and different contracts, so there are all kinds of divisions among us in a way that keeps us blind to the other departments’ exploitation. Sometimes our departments are pitted against each other: hair and makeup tend to be the ones thrown under the bus when things are running late.

• M.A.C. has announced its makeup line with Whitney Houston’s estate. I might have to open up a Clubhouse room because I have all the feels about this one.

"The idea that is coming to fruition now is something Whitney always wanted to do," Whitney's sister-in-law and former manager, Pat Houston, tells PEOPLE. "I'm pleased we can do something that I know she would have loved. We are just starting on this collaboration but exciting things are coming!”

• KNC Beauty Founder Kristen Noel Crawley will co-host this year’s ComplexCon with J Balvin. She recently launched new sessions for her virtual School of Beauty.

• Rep. Ayanna Pressley has joined the reintroduction of the Wigs as Durable Medical Equipment Act, a bill to get wigs covered by Medicare.

• Los Angeles will require proof of COVID vaccination for indoor venues, including salons starting November 4th.

  • More news out of California: Gov. Gavin Newsom signed a bill Thursday that significantly cuts the required number of training hours for barbers and cosmetologists from 1,600 to 1,000 hours. Read more about this bill here. Cosmetology deregulation is probably one of the biggest yet underreported stories in the beauty industry — and I am looking at myself when I say this. It’s a contentious topic that is also about class, and therefore, race.

• Covid and hair dye: In September the BBC issued a report on allergic reactions to hair dye among clients who had Covid-19. Here’s what we know so far and a really helpful breakdown of questions from Refinery29 UK.

• The Anti-Defamation League is partnering with L’Oréal USA to promote awareness and education of the Holocaust.

  • Relevant context: Founded in 1909, L’Oréal's founders have been tied to Nazi sympathizers, and actually, I just read a piece on the company’s origins and connection to the far-right.

  • More L’Oréal news: The company is supporting the exhibit "Kállos. The Ultimate Beauty" at the Museum of Cycladic Art, in Athens. (A beautiful museum in the heart of Athens if you ever get the chance to go.)

  • +++ L’Oréal USA has achieved carbon neutrality for scopes 1 and 2 emissions across all U.S. sites: Here’s how they did it.

• Coppertone has recalled five sunscreen sprays due to the presence of benzene. The levels detected are "very low" and Coppertone says daily exposure likely would not cause health consequences. Lot information and refund requests here: https://www.sunscreenrecall2021.com.

• So… ☠️. You may remember this story from my newsletter back in February. In 2016, Citigroup gave Revlon an extra $500 million by mistake. The company lost the court battle to retrieve it in February. This month, Citigroup launched its appeal. This situation is pretty wild, here’s a breakdown. How do you send someone an extra $500 million?

• Choreographer and dance icon Laurieann Gibson has launched BOP, a dance streaming network, with Cinedigm. It's wild to think about how influential Gibson's work has been to my life growing up, even when I didn't realize it. Her fingerprints are all over music; across genres, award shows, and music videos.

  • I really wanted to include Gibson in this newsletter because dance is a language of self-expression and her mission has always been centered on the power of dance to unearth your true identity. I listen to the After Class podcast, hosted by three choreographers, where they talk with Gibson about this.

• Livestream shopping platform NTWRK just raised $50 million.

• Smashbox just saved Becca’s most iconic products: Shimmering Skin Perfector Pressed in Champagne Pop and Under Eye Brightening Corrector. Plus, Smashbox is expanding the eye-brightening color range.

• The second season of ‘Sex, Love & goop’ is coming to Netflix on October 21st.

• YouTube star and makeup artist Mel Thompson has died at the age of 35. A tribute from her husband: “Everybody knows how talented she was as an artist and with her helpful knowledge, but those closest to her know how truly wonderful she was. She would have done anything to help anyone without a second thought. I wish I had her back.”

  Collabz & Celeb Newz

• L.A.’s ‘Gangsta Gardener’ Ron Finley has collaborated with Fiele Fragrances on a perfume.

• Wheelchair tennis athlete Kgothatso Montjane is Avon South Africa's newest ambassador.

• Deepica Mutyala’s Live Tinted brand is the first South Asian-owned makeup brand to launch at Ulta Beauty.

• French Montana will collaborate with Kilian Hennessy to redesign the scent bottle for Angels’ Share.

• For the love of TINX (I love Tinx!): Kiehl’s has partnered with the TikTok star on its first partnership with a content creator from TikTok.

• Doja Cat created a makeup collection with BH Cosmetics.

• Selling Sunset's Christine Quinn created a collection with Caité London.

• Claire's launched its first subscription service.

• Patrick Starrr launched his collaboration with Fashion to Figure.

Cool opportunities & events:

• Colgate-Palmolive has opened applications for its annual Latinx students for grants. Apply here.

• It’s cuffing SZN, so Ceylon Skincare is turning its Instagram into a matchmaking/dating platform for the month of October. Right now, it’s tryouts season. DM them a photo, a short bio, and what you’re looking for some inter-community matchmaking. All genders and sexual orientations are welcome, and the brand hopes to share folkx on social like modern-day classifieds. At the end of the month, Ceylon will host a Cuffing Season event at Mandrake Bar in Los Angeles! DM the account for more details. (Some timely news on Ceylon: The brand is now officially sold at Bloomingdales.)

I recently did an interview with Black Girls in Media, you can re-watch it here:

SEEN ON TV

(A.K.A. the internet)

• Kelis simultaneously reading this man for wanting to touch her hair while also promoting her new hair oil is a marketing moooooood, honey.

• Oludara Adeeyo started a newsletter that covers “Black women’s wellness via the latest news, research, online trends ann personal stories.” She says she was inspired by BEAUTY IRL! Subscribe!

• Skoopy snz gets a nail check.

• Plan B.

• No cure for cancer, but there is one for short man syndrome.

• Kristina Rodulfo spotlighting Filipino-owned makeup brands for Filipino American History Month.

• Hanahana Beauty founder Abena Boamah was a guest lecturer for the innovation and entrepreneurship course at Harvard:

MEDIA DROPS

Episode 188: The Elegance of a Formula with Darian Harvin — Forever35 Podcast featuring me!

Adele on the Other Side — Abby Aguirre [wow.]

Ilhan Omar Is Tackling Colorism. Here’s Why That Matters. — Ruchika Tulshyan

Amid The Pandemic, Seeing Myself — Jean Chen Ho

Kehlani Talks Spiritual Healing, Co-Parenting, New Music — Breakfast Club [Never thought I’d be putting a Breakfast Club interview into this newsletter, but Kehlani has never been on the show. So I guess there’s a first for everything.]

Snoop Dogg on Keeping His Mentals, Physicals, and Spirituals in Check — Josh Duboff

Amandla Stenberg Is on a Mission for Mental Health — Elizabeth Fazzare [Loved reading about her growth, and how her self-awareness has blossomed.]

I Wanted Ego Death. This Powerful Psychedelic Gave It To Me. — John Semley ["Biotechnology companies are now researching and developing psychedelic pharmaceuticals, with generous estimates speculating that the psychedelic drug market could be worth $10 billion by 2027."]

The Appeal and the Shortcomings of Women-Only Gyms — Chika Ekemezie

An Instagram Influencer Was Murdered. Now, Other Models Are Terrified. — EJ Dickson

Divorce Can Be an Act of Radical Self-Love — Lara Bazelon

“For Rosa” Director Talks Shining a Light on the Madrigal Ten, a Group of Mexican-American Women Who Underwent Forced Sterilization — Virginia Isaad

TED Talk: The Black History of Twerking — And How It Taught Me Self-Love— Lizzo

ABOUT DARIAN: This newsletter is written by Darian Symoné Harvin. Darian is a multimedia beauty reporter and social media editor using her journalism and curatorial skills to craft narratives and distinct takes on beauty, pop culture, and the intersection of both. So far, her career has been dedicated to working on thoughtful and viral ways to present news and content to people on the internet and IRL, for platforms like BuzzFeed News, Yahoo News, NBC News, and Vox.com. Darian wants to use her love and curiosity for beauty to tell stories. She currently writes for the New York Times, Refinery29, TeenVogue, and The Cut. You can find more of her work here.